Well I guess I can track my wiring to see if it's burned or faulty somewhere for that O2. But with it disconnected this past time I was still getting some bad results, Ill just take the car out for some runs tmrw to get a better idea.

 

Ok now it just seems odd to me. I understand the difference of open loop and closed loop now. With the O2 unplugged the engine and PCM go into Open Loop and therefor the O2's should not come into play. In open loop the PCM and engine should operate relatively similar the whole time regardless of engine temp correct? (was told the pcm doesn't attempt to correct AFR in open loop with o2's unhooked).

Today I was once again checking it. Upon start up the idle rpm's were once again fluctuating heavily between 700-1700rpm's. I would adjust the idle screw(open) to increase idle and it would slowly correct itself and rpm's would come back down. I kept tweaking the screw, both opening and closing, to get an idea of how the pcm was slowly making corrections. I kept fine tuning and it appeared to have worked and the idle seemed to relate around 900-1000 rpm's.

Although I got the idle seemingly handled this time, it only seemed to do this once the engine temp hit about 210. I then would kick the a/c on so the second fan would operate and the idle would jump back up and rpm's would fluctuate around 1200-1400 for a short while before slowly correcting and settling back down around 900rpm's.

Also took the car for another run. Seemed to run pretty well. However, I did notice a few hiccups which tended to relate to higher rpm's starting at about 2500. And every so often while in first gear it would also hesitate then jump, this also seemed to relate to higher rpm's beginning about 2000. But overall it was once again a big improvement over what it was prior to disconnecting the right bank O2. And this is why I'm stumped.

Granted I am still going to get my cable when I can since it would be nice to scan, but this is still a bit confusing to me. Input?

 

Mine seems to be intermittent now as well as far as when it happens while driving and how severe. But I lucked out and found a person with a shop to do me a favor. The only thing for me to do now is to run a diag scan on it and go from there with the data, I've done all I can with what I have.

I don't have any vibration of my pedal or clicking sounds. Try to figure out what area the noise is actually coming from and go from there. Need to be more specific with details though, could just be an overheating problem. Not trying to sound mean, but also starting your own thread is a good thing as to not confuse people posting within the thread or hijacking it. As to your problems are different then mine as well as your vehicle.

 

I apologize that was not my intent at all, I'm trying to be as specific as I can but
I am unable to pinpoint the sound because it only happens while I'm moving, making it a little difficult which I'm sure you understand.

 

did you set the new iac motor/valve before installing? 4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

 

yes, the gap or whatever it is referred as was within the correct range for the pintle. And I also went about the correct way to reset it once it's installed and running my engine using the link you posted.

Currently as I mentioned last post I found a friend of my grandfathers who owns and operates a shop, I was told he is very savvy with the tech, diag, and electrical systems. He is allowing me to bring my vehicle in as a favor and help diagnose and run scans. I will try and get a copy of the data to post if I can. Also, I am getting a gauge from him so I can check my fuel pressure as you mentioned previously. I'll update when I get more info or after the checks.

 

No Data or scans yet. But did fuel pressure testing and would like to share and get some feedback.

Turned ignition key on and pump ran, did this a few times to charge the lines. Fuel pressure with engine off was 42psi, which falls between the 41-47psi range so that was good. Next I ran the engine and it dropped to 39psi, which the range of expected drop is 3-10psi and I dropped 4 so I was good there as well. Now when turning off the engine is where I encountered the problem. I read the pressure is NOT suppose to drop off when the engine turns off..? My pressure reading fell from 39psi to 30 immediately upon shut down. Yet is gradually worked it's way back up to about 39psi over a few minutes.

So going with what info I've looked up on fuel pressure, I checked the vacuum to the valve and it is present, although I don't have a gauge to see the pressure fluctuate. I pulled the vacuum line and smelled gas but did not see any fluid in the line. So the options I have left to check from my understanding are: clogged or pinched return line, faulty regulater, or leaking lines at the pump. It has new fuel filter so that shouldn't be the problem. And we can hear the pump and it sounds to be working well as it should. INPUT?

 

Had my scan done today, no data file to share though. 3 main problems. First being the left bank O2 which I replaced with a Bosch sensor, is faulty. Like others have experienced and I have been told the sensor is stuck reading as if it's at WOT. I believe he said the Voltage is stuck at 9V(WOT). So I will need to replace that with another sensor. Second, also recently replaced IAC valve faulty/shot of which I think it too was an aftermarket part(BWD). Third problem, verified my intake manifold leak which is mainly on right bank side front and rear. Also causing my right bank to run lean.

Right bank O2 indicates LEAN, Left bank is faulty. I am going to unplug the faulty sensor and run that way. The only brands my store(Advance) carries in stock are Bosch and Denso, I can have them special order the Delphi unit though. Seemingly Delphi and AC Delco are basically the same?

I bought my IAC at Oreilly and I believe it is BWD brand. It cost me about $40 through them, which I plan to also get the Delphi unit to replace it and will have to cover the difference.

That is what I was told I need to do, replace O2 sensor and IAC with delphi/ac delco units and to fix my manifold leak.

 

IAC Valve- from BWD again; O2 sensor- Delphi; Intake gasket set- FelPro

IAC is on now, the O2 will be here wednesday, and gaskets will be here tomorrow.

Reset the IAC according the shbox, still idled rough for quite some time until after taking it on a drive it settled down. Disconnected the left bank O2 which was faulty and reading WOT at all times. I'm pretty sure the intake leak is creating a vacuum problem. Was told it may or may not do that but seems as though mine is. Sprayed carb cleaner around intake edges and the guy scanning noticed a significant change upon doing that. I didn't get a look but he said the numbers jumped quite a bit(idk what numbers he referred to but I'm sure some of you know). So after replacing the O2 next week and doing my intake gaskets I'll get another scan and see how things turned out.Hopefully all will be good.

 

Ok, finished my intake gaskets today and I have a new IAC valve(I was told old one was faulty even though relatively new) and I have a new left bank O2 sensor(Delphi) yet to be put on but the faulty sensor is unplugged so it runs in open loop.

The IAC was reset correctly again, and a few other vacuum lines replaced. No leak from the gasket now it's solid. But it still idles high around 1800-2000 rpm's but without the massive fluctuation this time. So, my guess is that since it has been so out of whack lately with the vacuum leaks, faulty parts, and intake leak that it just needs some fine tuning. Will it come around on it's own or would I need to do the diagnostic reset for the IAC "Craby" mentioned earlier in this thread? I have datamaster on my laptop but never used it so unsure of what all I can do on it or if resetting the IAC and adjusting things is possible on it...?