Front timing cover and opti
So my front timing cover needs to be changed and I'm looking at having a shop do it. I'm still pretty sure my opti is showing signs of failure, the car runs smooth but something is up. Does the opti have to come off to get to the timing cover? If so I was thinking of going ahead and getting it done. Also the opti is only maybe 5 years old with maybe 20k miles on it. Could I just replace the cap and rotor? Looking for advice regarding these two repairs. Thanks.
Edit: I'm also getting a lot of pushback from the woman about getting this done.... any good oil stop leak additives anyone can recommend. As for oil I run Royal Purple.
Edit: I'm also getting a lot of pushback from the woman about getting this done.... any good oil stop leak additives anyone can recommend. As for oil I run Royal Purple.
Last edited by 95z28man; Jul 16, 2020 at 01:24 PM.
The Opti has to come off,if it's anything but a GM Performance I'd replace it with a new one from GM Performance.
Since the water pump has to come off to get to it I'd replace that at the same time.
It's a common problem to have a burnt plug wire or two on the LT1,that could be what is acting up but it would suck to replace the cap and rotor ( and wires!) then have to go back into it again to replace the Opti.
Whoever the GM engineer is that decided it was a good idea to put the distributor behind the water pump should be hung!
Since the water pump has to come off to get to it I'd replace that at the same time.
It's a common problem to have a burnt plug wire or two on the LT1,that could be what is acting up but it would suck to replace the cap and rotor ( and wires!) then have to go back into it again to replace the Opti.
Whoever the GM engineer is that decided it was a good idea to put the distributor behind the water pump should be hung!
I had the wires done recently and the water pump last time I did the opti. I believe it's a gm performance one that's vented. I've never done the plugs 😅 so it's possible it's that and not that opti but that's hella expensive too. It idles okay and cruises fine, it just feels slightly less powerful at half throttle, still smooth oddly enough. I also recently did the fuel filter.
the tech that worked on my car today said the timing cover had a couple bolts that were able to be slightly tightened about a 1/4 of a turn and he said it didn't stop the leak but slowed it down so I guess for now I'm just going to watch everything and see. :/ thanks for the info.
the tech that worked on my car today said the timing cover had a couple bolts that were able to be slightly tightened about a 1/4 of a turn and he said it didn't stop the leak but slowed it down so I guess for now I'm just going to watch everything and see. :/ thanks for the info.
change the plugs. use ngk iridium tr55ix stock no 7164 or ngk laser iridium itr5h13 stock no 97287. I am betting the rear passenger side plug has never been changed. you may be running on 7 at times. my first time changing plugs took me all day,,, lol, there are like three plugs that are a pita big time. I actually take my alternator out to get to front passenger side plug and the starter lose to get rear from underneath. my hands are just to big.
I'm def going to look into the plugs. I'll need to get a quote for just them. The last quote was $1000 but it was for a whole tuneup. I've got a buddy that helps me at times (since I'm in a wheel chair) but I don't know if he'd be interested in tackling plugs on this thing :/
I'm in mid MO outside of Columbia about 20 miles. I appreciate the gesture. I did finally get my oil leak chased down after having it in 3 shops and as it turns out it's just the front timing cover, leaking and dripping to the back getting on the oil pan and then the exhaust. I priced a plug change the other day and they gave me roughly $350, $250 if I supply the plugs but the guy I talked to said they don't usually allow that lol.
ya that's more affordable than I was initially thinking. My last quote which included plugs was a whole tune up and that was $1000.



