LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

FINALLY

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  #1  
Old 10-15-2006, 08:24 PM
6v49der's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 630
Default FINALLY

I have some issues with my new 97 z28. ( ill get pictures up asap)

One, i think it backfires, because ive never known any catback to make such loud pop sounds, especially only when it is coasting or generally just not under load.

Two, oil. It has three oil leaks that i definatly know about. the biggest one is where the engine meets the transmission and then there are two more smaller leaks on the transmisson. I had some seals replaced on the transmission of my v6 camaro before i got rid of it and was wondering if it was about the same thing or if it is more serious than that.

Three, my passenger seat has alot of play in the track. It is bolted to the car fine, but it can move around alot inside the track, mostly in a reclining motion. Is that common? And will i need a whole new seat or just a track?

This might not really be a problem, but it bothers me. The gas pedal sticks. It takes alot of pressure to get it to move and then close to none and its at 5000.

Thanks for the help, im going to get some pictures of my new baby up here now.
 
  #2  
Old 10-15-2006, 11:54 PM
shnormo's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Canton MI
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Default RE: FINALLY

As far as the catalytic converter, when it started doing that did you notice a rotten egg smell under heavy acceleration? That would be the first indication of a loss of efficency. Usually the O2 sensors will pick up when it has foulded out and trigger the MIL (check engine light). Lucas fuel system cleaner HELPS, but doesn't fix a stuffy catalytic converter. The best way is to use a fogging style cleaner to vaporize and break down the carbon build up through the whole system (intake manifold, valves, injectors, pistons, cats, O2 sensors etc. ). It is applied through a vacuum line and it does a very good job.

As far as the track, I'm not to famillair with lose ones so I don't really have any recomendations.

For the sticking gas pedal, I would lubricate the spring assembly on the outside (where the throttle cable attatches). Take off the intake snorkel, use snap ring pliers to remove the screen on the throttle body, and then clean out the throttle plate and bore. The chances are there is so much carbon built up on the cross shaft that it actually prohibits the momentum. You can also use a VERY VERY VERY little oil when you are done. Lube up the throttle cable both outside the throttle body and at the base of the gas pedal. If it is still bad, it could be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor0.
 
  #3  
Old 10-16-2006, 01:53 AM
z28pete's Avatar
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Location: North East PA
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Default RE: FINALLY

Lt1's are known for popping into the exhaust on deceleration, the cat back just makes it more noticeable.

The oil leak you noticed whre the engine meets the transmission is usually not what it seems. Lt1's have a habit of leaking oil where the intake manifold meets the engine block at the rear of the engine. The oil seeps down between the bell housing and the engine, making it appear that the rear main seal is leaking. Run your hand at the rear of the engine where the manifold & block meet, if you feel oil, you found the problem.
 
  #4  
Old 10-16-2006, 02:14 AM
shnormo's Avatar
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Default RE: FINALLY

Usually the fix in the bottles don't work. I have used Bar's stop leak and it stopped it for about 1 oil change on a 1990 F-150 that left rather large "droppings" for being parked over night.
 
  #5  
Old 10-16-2006, 04:12 PM
z28pete's Avatar
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Location: North East PA
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Default RE: FINALLY

If it leaks under the rear of the manifold, the only recourse is to pull the manifold and reapply the silicone bead. As shnormo said, the bottled stuff won't help in this case.
 
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