I throwing around the idea that since im going to completely rebuild my engine , that i might as well go ahead and stroke it to a 383, instead of just cleaning it up to a 355. Any input?? From what i gather, i just need to machine out the block a bit more to clear the new crank, is that it? WIll the stock oil pan work?

 

i will be having a shop put mine together using my old lt1 block, cost 3k. get splayed mains added, 11.5 compression, pistons and crank installed and balanced with all clearances checked.

 

what pistons are you going with? I was going to get some Mahle Forged PowerPak Piston Kit (-5cc) PN:644-SBC250030F05 at jegs for my 355 build but now that im going 383, do i need a 383 specific piston?

 

If you assemble it yourself you could do it for less than 3k. The machine work on boring and stroking the block will still be expensive but 3k is good for an assemble 11.5 to 1 setup. The cylinders are bored .030 over and the block is stroked for a 3.750 crank. I would expect to spend well over 500 bucks to have the block machined, most likely around 800 or so. Then you have to remember the new rotating assembly. If you go with forged will cost you around 1800-2000. but for the extra money the assembly might be worth the couple hundred extra.

 

i will be doing all the machining myself, im doing the rebuild in a college machining course.

 

I think you would like a 383 alot better than a 355. I have a 383/ all eagle bottomend, with JE pistons, splined, and a stock pan. But at around 8500 i started losing oil pressure or a sudden slow down. My oil pump just went out but I install a new pump, and a windage tray. I think the stock pan would be ok, for most cases.

 

Yes, the wrist pin will have to be moved up towards the top of the piston, otherwise the pistons will crash into the heads.

 

look at some rotating assemblies and see if any interest you. forged would be fine. -5 will work with a big cam. maybe call one of the local machine shops and see what they can do for ya. if going with elliotts work he has some great suggestions.

 

why on earth are you revving your car to 8500? won't be long before that thing goes boom.

there really isn't THAT much of a difference(power wise) between a 355 and a 383. the power in an engine comes from the top end(cam and heads). assuming we're all familiar with lloyd elliott and his packages, an LE1 package would be better suited for a 355. LE2's would do fine on both with the 383 probably making slightly more power. LE3's would definitely require a 383 or bigger.

it all really depends on your budget and the shape of your current components. if it was me, i'd get some forged pistons and clean up my stock crank and build a stout 355 with an LE2 heads and cam package. if i felt like spending a load of money with intent to throw massive amounts of nitrous at it later, then i'd go 383

 

Oh, it will bump 8500-8800 quickly. I failed to mention tho its not a stock block, it was built to hold that, but I do normally shift around 6500-7000.