What to look for
#2
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Try and find an 01-02 they have the better LS6 intake manifold, I would stay away from the 98's (heads are not as good). Other wise they are not really that much different than any other used car. Personally I would want one that is stock or very close, that way any mods you do are done right. As for price an 01-02 car will go for anywhere between $10-17,000 depending on milage. Don't be shy about an LS1 that has 80-90,000 miles, as long as the car has been maintained the engines hold up very well. When i took mine apart with over 70,000 miles on it, the bearings and bores looked new.
#7
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Basicly they are bars that connect the front and rear sub-frames and help to stiffen the chassis.
http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1080
http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1080
#9
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It depends on the year of the LS1 you're looking for. I wouldn't go with a 1998 LS1 because the cylinder walls were thinner than on later LS1s.
I would suggest going with either a 2001 or 2002 LS1 because they had the LS6 intake. The 2001 and 2002 models are holding their value pretty well, but you should be able to find one for about $13,000.
I would suggest going with either a 2001 or 2002 LS1 because they had the LS6 intake. The 2001 and 2002 models are holding their value pretty well, but you should be able to find one for about $13,000.
#10
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We never had any problems with our '98 un til we blew the motor up on maybe the 200th 1/4 mile pass, but then it was modified and producing close to 525 RWHP and lifting the front wheels. it was a great engine even if not as powerful as later models.
the block - thinner cylinder walls? Our block was still fine after the engine blew - we magnifluxed it and it was okay and we sold it to a guy that honed it 3 thousandths and it is still running in another, heavily modified car.
The heads? As far as i know there was no big difference until the Ls-6 heads: all LS1 stock heads are okay, but not really that good.
Things to look for:
1) the rear axle is the Achilles heel on F-bodies. check for leaks around the front seal on the differential, signs of leaks around the rear cover seal. Any noises. These are chronic problem area.
2) Manual Transmission: third gear tends to take abuse in cars that are heavily driven and is usually the first synchro/gear to go. When driving the M-6, check to see that it shifts easily (and fast) inbto third and ffourth. Assume that you face about $900, after you take the trans out of the car and cart it to the reapir shop, to repair it if you feel anything less than perfect action: once you feel resistance here, you have about two months left.
3) Does it have any mods? Check them carefully. Nothing wrong with a modded car (headers, etc.) just more likely to have been abused.
the block - thinner cylinder walls? Our block was still fine after the engine blew - we magnifluxed it and it was okay and we sold it to a guy that honed it 3 thousandths and it is still running in another, heavily modified car.
The heads? As far as i know there was no big difference until the Ls-6 heads: all LS1 stock heads are okay, but not really that good.
Things to look for:
1) the rear axle is the Achilles heel on F-bodies. check for leaks around the front seal on the differential, signs of leaks around the rear cover seal. Any noises. These are chronic problem area.
2) Manual Transmission: third gear tends to take abuse in cars that are heavily driven and is usually the first synchro/gear to go. When driving the M-6, check to see that it shifts easily (and fast) inbto third and ffourth. Assume that you face about $900, after you take the trans out of the car and cart it to the reapir shop, to repair it if you feel anything less than perfect action: once you feel resistance here, you have about two months left.
3) Does it have any mods? Check them carefully. Nothing wrong with a modded car (headers, etc.) just more likely to have been abused.