Alright, now that I've got the immediate issues I've been having with my car straightened out, it's time to look to the future!

I'm planning to build my lt1 into a "street machine", my definition of which is N/A, stock gears/stall,max rpm of around 6000,and completely DD friendly.

To accomplish this goal, I have come up with this list of go-fast parts:

Lloyd Elliott LE1 heads/ported intake (Re-machined Stock Valves, Crane Dbl Valve Springs (145 lbs seat and 370 lbs open), Steel retainers and locks)
Custom ground cam (I'm willing to spend the extra money on custom to get exactly what I want out of the car)
CAI, Longtubes/true duals (ordering tomorrow )

What I need to know from you guys, is which of the optional upgrades you would suggest I get from Lloyd.
Here's the list from the site: [align=center]* upgrade to Manleystainless steel 1.94/1.50 valves - Add $100[/align][align=center]* upgrade to Manley Race Flo 2.00/1.56 valves - Add $250[/align][align=center]* upgrade to PAC 1218 or 1220 Bee Hive springs set up -Add $150[/align][align=center]* upgrade to Patriot Gold Extreme spring set up - Add $150[/align][align=center][/align][align=left]I'm sure which ones I get depend on the cam profile, or possibly more simply how much power/torque I want to make. So, assuming I make 340-360 rwhp, and 350-375 rwtq, which of those would you recommend?[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]In addition to these components, I need to resolve the issue of some noisy lifters. I figure the best time to do this is while the car's apart anyway. Since I'm essentially replacing the rest of the drivetrain, what will I need for this?[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Also, one area which I'm not very familiar with is the fuel system. What would I need to upgrade to support these power levels? From the small amount of research I've done before typing this, it seems that larger injectors will be enough, but I want your opinions.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Finally, how difficult will tuning on a dyno be with the '93 beingspeed density? Will any experienced dyno shop have the proper equipment to tune a not-very-wild street build in a speed density car?[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Cliffnotes:[/align][align=left]1.) I plan to make about 350 rwhp, 360rwtq.[/align][align=left]2.) Which of the optional upgrades should I go with?[/align][align=left]3.) What will I need to fix some noisy lifters, since I'm breaking into the engine anyway?[/align][align=left]4.) What fuel system upgrades will be needed for those power levels?[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]As always, thanks in advance. [/align]

 

I am going to let a LT1 guy take this one but i would say your goals are very reasonable with that list. Is there any reason you do not what to spend some money on a good stall converter?

 

Well, I guess the best reason why is that I want the car to drive essentially the way it does now, only with more power.

I mean, if I were to call up comp cams, or even lloyd (if he's willing to grind me a completely custom cam) and they say that with a small increase (2400 or less) they could give me something special I'd definitely consider it.

And I don't have a strip within 3 hours of me, so I don't plan to be heading to one very often. I would like to go once after all this is said and done, just to see what the car traps at, since I know I won't be able to do anything impressive my first time out in terms of ET. Anyway. Since I don't plan on going often, I don't really care about lowering my 60 fts, so I don't need a high stall or gears. I'm going to do suspension work so I can use the power on the street, but nothing extreme. It's still a DD!

 

If you are going to a hotter cam and you still want to have a good street car, you should go to a higher stall converter to make up for the loss of low end torque because of the cam. Since you are dealing with Lloyd Elliot, he would be the person to ask for the info and get a complete matched package from him. He will provide you with a custom grind cam to match the heads. As for valve springs, they also have to be matched to the cam grind, and the spec sheet with the cam will tell you which springs to use. Bee hive springs may be needed depending on valve lift, but again use what the cam grinder recommends.

 

Well that's one of the things that I'm looking to keep after this build is my low end torque. I'm completely fine with giving up top end power to keep the torque down low, since that's where I'll be driving. I'm looking for a fun street car, and fun comes from torque.

 

Bump for day two!

(Headers are on their way as we speak! )

 

if you talk to lloyd...he's going to tell you to get a bigger stall...period. i think he at least recommends a 2800 stall. i have a 3600 stall and its not as crazy as people would think it is. lifters i'd say go with stock replacement or ls7 lifters. injectors i'd go with 30# svo injectors(actually flow at about 37# range). calling lloyd elliott and telling him your goals for the car and everything would be a better idea for you as he can tell you exactly what combinations would be best for your car.

where do you live? speed inc is in illinois and they dyno tune all sorts of f body cars. you could email or call them and set up an appointment, or ask them if they know of anyone closer to you that they'd recommend you go to.

 

Speed inc. eh? Sounds good. I've been searching and I'm located in the automotive center of nowhere. :P There's no dynos, tracks, strips, anything of the sort within three hours of me. It's baffling!

I'd really like to avoid a higher stall, and on his website he has some optional cams that don't require one, and they go up to and beyond my goals. But Like I said, if he can give me everything I want with a relatively low stall (I might be able to work with 2800), Then I'll learn to deal.

Edit: I figured stock replacement would be good. Will ls7 lifters really work? If so, that's pretty interesting.

 

Well, I've been emailing Lloyd at Elliottsportworks the last couple days, and basically this is what I've learned/decided/etc./etc.

I'm getting the LE1 heads/cam package with a custom ground cam (specs will remain a secret until it's actually in the car, since it may change based on things that happen in the future.), and upgrade to the Manley 2.00/1.56 springs. Then I'll be having the intake/TB ported and polished.

The whole conversation basically went like this:
I told him I wanted 350 rwhp, and between 360-380 rwtq, using stock stall and gears.
He said I could make 360 rwhp, but wasn't sure about the torque numbers being that high, because of the short runners in the intake. He said it'd be possible with 1 3/4 inch lt's, true duals, and an electric water pump.
I told him I've got 1 3/4 inch to 1 7/8 inch stepped primary lt's, and that I plan to run true duals.
He said that with this exhaust, and a slightly bigger than the smallest cam he offers cam, I'd very easily make 360 rwtq AND rwhp!
I asked him what sort of dyno graph/rpm range I'd have.
He says I'll be making at or above 340 rwtq from 2800-5500 rpms, and that I won't need to spin it more than 6100 (redline, as in I'll be shifting before that) rpms!

So basically, I'm getting more than I originally hoped for, with my stock stall/gears, at the amazing price of $1500!!! (I know this won't be the total cost. I need the dyno tune, fuel system upgrades, and any labor that I end up not doing by myself)

Holy crap I can't wait for this summer to get here so I can get this going! haha.

 

Lloyd can help you with the dyno tune, he works closely with the PCM For Less people and they can exchange your PCM for one tuned to handle Lloyd's mods.