Rocker ratio of 1.5:1 is factory, however, OE rockers measured about 1.42:1.
Going to the higher ratio, the pushrod cup is moved closer to the slot/fulcrum.
You would have to check at max lift if there is plenty of clearance between the slot and stud. May have to grind out or buy long slotted rocker arms. You don't want to snap off a rocker stud.


Congrats on the break-in and glad to read things went well.

 

I have basically the same set up in my 68 Camaro. Some people like to idle them way down, I keep mine around 1050 -1100 warm idle. This is the same cam advanced 2 degrees. I don't think the idle "sound" changed but it did come off idle quicker. Amazing what only 2 degrees will make in acceleration. I have never ran my car up to the upper range, 0 to about 100 is cool with me! I could care less about top speed. Too old for that stuff! Ha.... I had plenty of valve to piston clearance at 2 degrees, using the stock pistons and heads, with no machining. About the rockers, Crane Tech told me to stick with the factory rockers with stock heads. Per Everette above, you don't want to start break parts. Go enjoy that new found power!

 

A little late getting in on this, but there is another big concern when changing rocker arm ratio that hasn't been brought up here. You will also most likely need to change your pushrod length to keep the rocker arm rolling on the center of the valve stem! If you don't take the time to check the end of the rocker arm contact pattern after changing to a higher ratio rocker, you could risk wearing the stems off your valves and having a catastrophic valve failure.
You can buy an adjustable pushrod to use during mock up that allows you to adjust the length until the rocker rolls dead center on the valve stem. Some blue machinist's dye on the end of the stem will indicate the pattern, and once you have it centered the rod length is ordered from there.