They are the 219/1.88 118cc right now. I think I'm going to get the Dart or merlin heads with 2.30/1.88 and go with The RPM cam or something close. The rear end in the car is the stock 10 bolt, 3.73 or 3.42. trans is a 350 with a shift kit, That will probably blow soon, when that happens it will be a TCI 400......and when the rear goes I've been lookin at the ford 9's and the 12 bolts, probably stay with 3.73's in those also.........would a 292/298 be to much for the street? .........I forgot a few..2 1/8 race headers into 3" straight pipes, no power steering, just the water pump and alt.

 

You're barkin right up my alley but I want to ask a couple more questions on where you want to go with this original post.

Do you care about MPG?

Do you like to tinker even when things a running good? seriously.

Are you after HP or 1/4mi. E.T? That's kind of a trick question but do your best.

Do you foresee your car being more of a strip car than a street car? Aside from the regular weekend tire smoking fun.

What are the casting #'s on your heads? Are they 049, 781, etc......

EDIT: Do you also care if the car idles up near 950-1000 RPM? (It's not nearly as bad as you think FWIW)

RM

 

Thats part.....ok most of the problem,I tinker when things run good. I cant get my fat head back to see the casting #'s for the block, I was just told that it was a new block and heads...A GM crate pkg. with the cam, and what hp it should have. Everything is new and still shiney on the insides. Car runs and smells great...The Hp/Tq..feel about right and the car drives like its on ice..My problem is at worst it will have the cast internals, I'm shootin for a low idle, who cares about gas , good in the 1/4 but a terror on the street weekend car. IfI toss on the heads and cam I don't want to find out that it will up the HP to more then the cast crank and pistons can handle.....If I'm lucky they will be forged.....But if the motor tops out around 550 hp then there may be no need for the forged, h beam and all the works. ..........Basicly, I worked on a 68 that I worked on for 7 years,and just before it was finished I was offered this finished camaro and nothin left to fix.....I may just need a slap in the face,and a good leave it the hell alone yell.....But just cuz it's good, doesn't mean it can't get better................. I'll have to get the #'s for the heads later, Also What size carb would be best for it, 750 or 850?

 

Here's my 2 cents for what it's worth. Since we're not going for more than 550+ HP this works for me. Over 600HP and the machine work starts adding up.

A 454 will build plenty of power on it's own. Don't pay the extra cash for a set of aluminum heads unless all you're after is weight savings. Those late model GM oval port heads are actually what you want in your heavy car.Going for another iron headswith valves that are .011 bigger on the intake side onlyIS a big waste of your money.The Darts are heavier too. Getyours cleaned up and have the bowls "blended". If you want to spend the extra money, have the intakes matched, but for what you are doing I can cay it won't be worth it at this time.

The cast crank will be fineup to 600HP. BUTmake sure your machinist has it"wet magnafluxed" not the normal "dry magnafluxed" Not going to try and explain the difference but if you have a good machinist, they'll know what it is. Don't let them tell you it's not needed. Wet magging will catch smaller imperfections in the material.

The cast pistons have to go. Enough said.

Edelbrock RPM airgap intake would be my choice. You could probably get away with a Team G with those oval port heads but I'm not sure it would be worth it. I ran a dual plane intake (RPM) on my 10.60's Camaro. Wanted to try a Team G but never got around to it.

I'm going under the assumption that you don'thave a bottomless pocket but if you do, then rooler valve train all the way. If not......Pick a (mechanical) cam that has an .050 duration of about 256-266 (roughly) This will work on the street with no problem. Remember when I asked you if you like to tinker This will benefit even more if you want to creep that CR up to 10.5:1. IT WILL WORK. There are a few other factors in cam seletion that I can give you in another post later if you want as I feel they are somewhat important.

I've tried who knows how may different carbs for racing and street and I can honestly say that it's hard to beat an HP carb from Holley. I would even venture to say you should put a 950HP on that motor. BG carbs are just not up to the advertised hype in my opinion. Edelbrock carbs are good for the street but they can't really be tuned for the track. They're just to limited in their performace abilities.

I would also suggest sticking with a header with no larger than 2" primaries.

Swallow that and ask away.

RM

 

Thanks for all your input, It helps alot, I have the roller rockers but have to get the 7/16 studs, are these a bolt in or is that a tap job? Probably go with the holley, all the fast cars have those, only see the grants on the show cars. If all that will be good then it will save a ton of money by not buying heads and a rotating assembly thatisn't needed. But will go with some H beams and a 10.6 or so comp Keith Black set up. The headers on it now are Stahl headers, they looka few years old, still in great shape but older then the rest of the motor. I will probably go with a set of coated Hoker super comps. I'm new to the big block faimly and it just seems way to easy to get stupid amounts of HP with little changes. And thats a good thing, Again thanks for all the help.