It was like $155 a month before my wreck when I just had liability.

I was going to buy two 12" Duals and a 580w Dual amp off my friend this week for like $220, but that fell through when I found out about my insurance [>:].

 

haha. once i hit 18, mine will go down again, but if i get the Z or a camaro or whatever, it'll go back to about 200/mnth. once i turn 18(using the current 2 vehicles) it is s'pose to be around 100/mnth, according to my insurance lady. i also hve a BIG multi car discount(family owns 6 vehicles, and even though it's my own policy, still same household)

 

lol, i had a mulitcar before i even had the elantra because my bro was at the same place..... even tho we are on separate policies and lived in different states at the time lol.

 

haha. yea. i love my multi-car policy.. still wish i could go on parents and pay the difference though[&o]

 

If you want to save money, and space, build the box yourself, although the price on that enclosure is pretty decent. If you want it to sound good, make sure the airspace supplied by that box is right for the subwoofer you purchase.

I've had good luck recently running a Kicker CVR10 (10") comboed with an alpine V-power series amplifier in my Fiero (400W iirc). I need to look at modifying it's box or finding a sub that takes a little less airspace though. I'm a little suboptimal and it still sounds decent (actually, it's very crisp and clean sounding, it just won't hit the lows it should).

On the flipside, my Camaro has 2 CRAP 10s and a 220W Jensen amp (all OLD) with a box that is a nice size and design and it can rattle the bodywork. Still a fairly crisp sound (not quite as good as the Fiero) and way louder. If space is an issue, I would build a box for a 10" sub (maybe 2 if you're feeling spunky) instead of a 12. Properly sized it will sound great, not take up much space and not break the bank.

IIRC, a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF is <$30, and will be more than enough material to make 2 or 3 smaller boxes. Shoot, if you're halfway close to 47201, I'd be more than happy to help you (I've got a table saw, it makes it SO easy to cut this stuff accurately.)

The best thing you can do is make sure that your enclosure is the right size. Then buy a quality (not necessarily the most expensive, just decent quality) sub and amp, wire it up and you're set. It will sound great and not be so expensive. For determining enclosure requirements, pick out your sub first and see what the manufacturer recomends.

You can get items like the wire terminals at Radio Shack or http://www.partsexpress.com/

 

Would I be better off with 10" or a 12" that costs slightly less?

I kinda like this one:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ch+P3D412.html
An added bonus is that it's available with a grill.

And maybe this amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9582_Power+Acoustik+Reactor+REACT1-1800.html

What do you guys think? Those are kinda pricey, but I figured what I'm probably going to do is buy it in pieces, like one paycheck I'll buy the sub, then the amp on the next check, and then the box.

 

I haven't heard anything bad about Rockford Fosgate subs, especially their recent stuff (I guess for a while their quality slipped, apparently its back) but that amp, that's WAY too cheap for a real 1800 W amp.

I would actually go for the Alpine MRP-M500 (outta stock though, hmm). It's only $60 more and a known, good brand, and the amp specs match the speaker. (500 rms 1000 peak)

If you're going to spend the scratch for a nice sub, don't cheap out on other components. Somebody else can chime in here if Power Acoustik is any kind of quality. Not saying that it won't work, it surely will, but how long will it last?

I definitely understand working within a budget as well though, so make your own decisions there, I'm just trying to help.

Some comparisons:

Alpine MRP-M500 (matches the spec on the sub, 500 RMS and 1000 Max)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+MRP-M500.html
The Power Acoustik is rated 500/700 rms (depending on speaker resistance) and 1800 peak
The MRP-M1000 from alpine is actually overkill, so I rescind my suggestion, it's rated 1000 RMS and 2000 peak.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...MRP-M1000.html

 

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...ok-inside.html
[sm=yikesomg.gif]

I don't really want to have to cut out a section of my inner sheet metal and put a big hole in my rear panel though... but I bet it'd be worth it because the common theif wouldn't even know that it's back there. I'm sure I could probably hide the amp somewhere too.

Oh, and I'm also EXTREMELY paranoid that someone might break into my Yukon, since my '89 Silverado got stolen and I never saw it again

 

Sorry about your old truck, that sucks.

That box looks PERFECT for what you want to do. Toss in a nice 10 and you're golden. Might not shake the neighborhood, but ought to sound excellent inside your truck. At .8-1.0 cu. ft. it's going to be too small for most 12s, but should be pretty good for a lot of 10s. Judicious use of Polyfill and it will sound pretty decent. Nice thing about 10s: They're cheaper than 12s


EDIT: I just read the bit about the install. Yeah, you're cutting some sheet metal, but it's not a lot, your truck has a full frame, so the sheet metal isn't structural (esp. not there). It really doesn't look that bad at all. I would definitely go with that box. Shoot, somebody posted up dimensions if you want to try your hand at building your own. the only thing that will show is the cut out of the interior body panel.

 

Yeah, I think I'll just convince myself to do it, and put a really nice 10" back there and a good amp to power it.


I REALLY don't like the idea of making permanent changes to the inner bodywork of my truck, but if it keeps my investment safe, and lets me keep my rear cargo area, I think it'd probably be worth it in the end.