I have not had a chance to pull the plugs yet i'm currently working on puting in a new power steering pump after thats installed then I will pull the plugs and do another compression test.

 

I pulled the plugs out only one plug was black and crusted up I think it was soot but not sure the bad spark plug was in the cylinder that had a whole new piston replaced I ran compression test the bad plug cylinder read 180 all others where anywhere from 190-195 the car now has 375 miles since rebuild still smoking like a freight train but only during acceleration my exhaust pipes are becoming filled with soot as well I put seafoam in last night hoping maybe it was a clogged or stuck fuel injector the motor is also going threw maybe a quart of oil every 150 miles I did first oil change at 300 miles oil was black as night and had metal shavings in it the oil seemed thin and had slight gas smell(sorry for lack of grammar usage I'm in a hurry lol) any suggestions would be appreciated

 

There used to be these things you could get at the parts store called non-foulers. You screw 'em on the end of your spark plugs before installing them, the theory being the further away from the combustion chamber, the less likely to oil-foul. In your case you would use them (if they still exist) to move the electrode away from the piston. If the piston IS hitting the plug this would allow it to clear. You would still want to find out why this is happening but it could point you in the right direction. I'm not sure if the 3800 II is an interference or non-interference engine. I'm sure someone in the forum knows this and will weigh in on this issue. Good luck!

 

Thanks man i'll check it out. im thinking that i may have 2 problems first problem is the piston rings arent set yet allowing oil to burn which would explain why i'm going through so much oil. second im thinking i may have a bad fuel injector that maybe leaking sibce there is a lot of soot built up in my exhaust tips.

 

The bad news is the rings may never seal. Rings are designed to handle about .005 or out of round. I am a little surprised your getting that much smoke from one cylinder. If you think you have a bad injector it should show up on a spark plug as black. If you think it is the same cylinder as the oil issue just move the injector and see if the plug in the new location get a dark build up after a few days.

I have seen a lot of 100K+ car that where re-ringed without being bored and most of the time they will smoke worse after the "rebuld" but not to the level that a single cylinder could cause a lot of oil lose. I think something else is going on. It is very unlikely that the machine shop missed putting a seal on the one cylinder you working on. That leaves something is wrong with the rings.

 

Ya the spark plug is black after several hundred miles. the cylinder that has the black build up on the spark plug is the only cylinder that received a new piston. all other pistons where not replaced just new rings put in and I did all the honing myself which I dont think I did properly, but like I said its just the cylinder with the new piston. I ordered a whole set of injectors so that will tell me a bit more when they come in. the car only smokes during acceleration the higher the more acceleration I give it the more it smokes from a standing idle it does not smoke but when I hold it about 2500 Rpm it will smoke you out of the garage as far as driving same scenario when I accelerate it smokes when at a steady cruising speed it won't smoke

 

Put new injectors in and it's smoking and miss firing worse than before I put the injectors in ob2 reader is saying multiple misfire

 

Misfire could be coming from the oil fouled plug. Your going have to address the oil issue first. Let’s face it if you can get that fixed the car is not really drivable anyways.

Please don’t take offense but with your experience level maybe you should just swap in a low miles used long block in there. You could put a 2008 motor in there for $600-$700. There is a very good chance that if the rings where installed wrong or the cylinder is out of round that the block will need bored out anyway and as a general rule the cost to rebuild a high miles motor right could get into the thousands pretty quick.

There is a sticky at the top of the V6 forum about what engines you can use. Since these 3800 are so dependable and there are so many in wrecked cars sometimes you can find some really great deals out there. I have heard of guys finding engines with 10K on them for $500.

 

no offense taken this was my first rebuild lol but I have decided ima pull the motor back out its just one cylinder that's defective so ima send the block off to machine shop and have bored out I guess but if I get it bored do i need new pistons and rings or will I be able to re use what I've already bought which where stock rings and 1 stock piston

 

Like I said the price of rebuilding a high miles motor is to high. The motor will need completely disassemble to go into the machining (aka boring) process. You will need new pistons and new rings. Are you going to put the old bearing back in after all the work? Are you really going to put all the effort in and reinstall a timing chain with over a 100K on it? If that chain breaks it could wipe out the motor. The valve and valve guides are tired and will not let you get great compression. How about Cam bearings? That will cause low oil pressure either now or in the near future. Patching together high miles motors is almost always a mistake unless is low dollar and free labor. All that money/work and 7000 miles later the oil pump goes out. You just flushed $1000.

Assembling a complete motor takes a fair amount of knowledge, a lot more then just replacing a piston. It could be a great learning experance but if your goal is to get a good dependable car finding a low miles used motor you can hear run is the way to go. It have been building motor for over 20 years and when I work on a "driver" I stick in low miles used motors. If I am building a car to race I build a motor.