i was wondering what was the easiest way to remove my oil pan on my 95 V6 camaro. Should i do it, or should i just take it to a shop. And if i can do it, how much time do u think it will take? thanks

 

Depends on your tools. You will have to raise the motor a little bit and/or lower the suspension so you can clear the pickup. If you have an engine hoist and 2 jacks, and 2 jack stands. I would say you COULD do it. But it might be more economical and easier for you to take it somewhere.

 

I figured that it wouldn't be too much different than changing any other oil pan. Due to our great Minnesota winters up here I have to change the oil pan on my 1995 3.4L. (They use way too much salt on the roads.) If you do decide to do it yourself please post to let us know how you make out. I've already got all the parts that I could possibly need, but I'm still unsure about tackling such a job.

 

Make friends with a mechanic. See if they'll cut you a deal or do it for cash. You gotta get that motor pretty high to clear the member.

 

Taking it to a shop is always the easiest thing to do. Give some one else the headache.

 

Old thread, damn. I wonder why op said 3.4l needed jacking. Wrong. I just dropped my pan today (no problem) and polished it purty like. So much bad information out here. Amazing how no one corrected him 18 years ago though. While typing some prep notes today, I noticed that a bunch of posts all over Camaro forums said the 4L60E pan bolts were M8. Weird.

Tools: 13mm socket w/3" extension and catch pan.

I can't remember where the one longer bolt goes. Pretty sure it's one of the shifter bracket/pan bolts.

 

they are talking about the engine oil pan not the transmission pan. the bolt end with threads on it is m8 not the head of the bolt.

 

Should have looked closer. I queried "Trans pan bolts" and this threads link popped up.

Btw, new trans fluid didn't help my 45-50 mph coast than accelerate horrible vibration. Trans fluid looked really clean and speck free. I just changed the diff fluid too and the gears looked factory new. Spinning the elevated wheels slowly had a grindy sound at the drums-maybe bearings? Bad wheel bearings wouldn't wait til a coast/accelerate at 45 mph to manifest that vibration. Even though I hand sanded all of brake parts early into the restoration a few months ago, there's still a ton of pitted and surface rust all over the rear suspension and floor board a bit that I've wire-brushed here and there while laying underneath the last few months.

The trigger scenario of coast/accelerate at the same specific speed of mine was the "Torque Converter Shudder" symptoms other folks described all over web. I thought I may have finally had it licked. Until I can find a closer shaft balancing shop closer than 70 miles, I'm gonna keep fixing things, starting with rear bearings. The suspension parts feel good, a little squeaky but still pretty tight. The only fluid I haven't changed is brake fluid & pwr steering fluid . Below is my repair to date/cost diary. If anyone has any suggestions, please chime in.

CAMARO REPAIR TOTAL
refurbished fuel tank
fuel lines cleaned
fuel rail cleaned
cleaned all internal cooling system components
cleaned all brake components
new fuel pump ($72)
new fuel injectors ($80)
new fuel injector retaining clips ($3)
new fuel regulator ($28)
new fuel filters (2) ($14)
new fuel line connector & union ($42)
new fuel vapor canister purge valve ($25)
new Idle Air Control Valve Fuel Injection System ($10)
oil change/filter penz plat full synth high mileage ($33)
cooling system comprehensive flush ($30)
new window lift motors ($35) + (adv auto warranty)
used aluminum driveshaft with yoke($140)
new Spicer u joints ($65)
new oem transmission Mount ($14)
changed transmission fluid & filter kit ($24)
changed diff fluid & lube locker gasket ($40)
changed coolant temp sensor ($25)
new Dorman A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley ($43)
changed PCV Valve ($3)
new front stabilizer bar bushing-pass side ($11)
new tires-front ($200)
===============================================
TOTAL $897

 

I'm wondering if it's a simple driveshaft "runout" issue or something with the ds. The only reason I haven't leaned harder into the ds as the problem is because the exact same symptom's/scenario was there with the oem two-piece ds I replaced. I assumed the old ds was shot from just sitting in the swamp for 13 years and I've always liked me some fresh u joints anyway . It was rusty as hell but the joints were fine and the carrier bearing was harder to diagnose because it seemed fine also. Without pulling/ prodding on it solidly mounted, it was hard to say. The 2000 SS aluminum shaft was just a bonus. The original rear bearings with 127,00 miles cant hurt to replace regardless. Almost everything I've done was way past its life for the most part anyway. I've got plenty of ds video documentation at incremental speeds, some with my strobe light's and my modded 20' cords . It looks fine to my eye but I don't really have that nuanced eye for the acceptable tolerances of shaft movement. I know it ain't much. If it looked like a jump rope, it would be a lot easier.