Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way

Here's a link for doing valve adjustment.

The carbon buildup is usually due to poor quality engine oil or not having the oil changed often enough. Sludge is name for it and it can and will over time destroy an engine.

 

thanks for the info man, i was getting worried that it would be head related or something lol.

but as for the setting lash. i was reading numerous articles online, and alot of videos on youtube including the link you posted, and i think i have it figured out. im doing 1/2 turn past zero lash. if that sounds right lol. im feeling pretty confident about the job i did on it. i definitely took my time, backed out the nuts to double check each one just to be sure. now i guess its time to put it all together. lets hope for the best.

 

1/2 turn is right. Though you could any where from 1/4 to 1 full turn...but 1/2 is the norm.

 

well i got it all together, and now im hearing a gigantic vacuum leak somewhere. the car is revving to 2500 rpm. on a lighter note it doesnt backfire or run like crap so i know i got the valve lash set correctly lol.

the thing im worried about was when i put the lower intake back on, i dunno if i put enough rtv sealant on the block. if there wasnt enough sealant on that lower intake, would it cause a vacuum leak that bad to cause the engine to rev that high? because ive checked everywhere else, and all the other vacuum lines seam to be okay and intact and connected.

 

so, ive been out side working on the car. double checked all vacuum lines. the only thing i can think of is its coming from the lower intake. idk how but thats really the only thing i can come up with. because its sounding like a pretty hefty vacuum leak. so tomorrow im going to try and tear all this down again, buy all new gaskets. and hopefully figure out whats wrong.

 

If anything didn't seal right, it'll cause a vacuum leak. Triple check every vacuum line, the TB gaskets and all connections between that and the air filter before tearing everything apart.

 

oh i have man trust me lol. all vacuum lines are spot on and intact. you can hear the high pitched whistle as soon as i start her up. its a terrible noise lol. so ima slowly tear everything back down, and check everything as i do so. im sure ill figure it out...hopefully lol.

 

well, i got the upper plenum off/fuel rail. was double checking torque on the LIM bolts. and there was one in the back, by the troublesome egr piping i was complaining about earlier. (i wasnt able to get a torque wrench on it so i guessed while using a standard wrench). and come to find out, that bolt was only at about 15-16 ft pounds, when it shouldve been at 22-23 ft pounds. so i torqued that bolt down to what its supposed to be at, and i was able to get about a little more than a half turn on it before it hit the 22-23 ft pound mark.

im going to assume that the under torqued bolt was my issue. wouldnt a bolt 6-7 ft pounds under spec cause a vacuum leak? idk but im going to hope thats whats causing the leak. i was just wanting to post an update with my findings every so often. now im going to reassemble everything and hope for the best

 

update* put everything back together, and still no go. still has a huge vacuum leak that i cant seem to find. idk what else to do but attempt to buy new gaskets and do the job all over again.

 

update* was tearing it down today, and when i got to getting the EGR valve off, one of the two bolts werent torqued down. im saying that the left bolt was so loose i could turn it with my fingers. could a loose egr bolt cause a huge vacuum leak and cause the engine to idle that high?