Few weeks ago I had a new VATS key bought/cut from local GM dealer. Just got the switich put on yesterday. The NEW key cranked it first but it was a struggle. The cylinder lock was a butt to turn. I was able to take the car for a drive being that it had sit for about a month. That certainly felt good. Anyway, brought the car back in and turned it off. Tried to crank again and the cylinder lock would NOT budge. It wont even make the ding ding ding (lol) sound when you put the key in. Funny though that the old key WILL make the sound. It also cranked the car once.

Now neither key will turn the lock. You can turn them backwards and make the dash panel light up, radio etc but not forward to crank the car.

If I threw the security wouldn't it let me turn it, just not crank it? I have done that in the past and that's what would happen. It just bothers me that the new key won't even trigger the dinging sound but the old will. Both keys are VERY similar. The older one is just a tiny bit narrower in one spot.

I'm going back to the GM dealer today and see if they can give me an idea on something. Maybe the resisitor wasn't right on the new one. I can't take the car and obviously I can't bring in the switch.

 

hmmm. I'm not sure if your asking a question or just an update. sounds like the values dnt match

 

lol I wasn't sure either. I went to the dealership and they checked and both keys measured a 4. So they redid the key they had made and took a tiny bit off in one spot again. Still nothing. It wouldn't "ding". The pattern keys would and they would even turn so that told them the cylinder was fine. So they made another one and we went back and tried it, it finally dinged and after a lot of work, we got it cranked. We noticed the newer keys weren't going in quite as far as the original did.

So we drove the car up there and I told them that we got it cranked but it shouldn't have been that hard. So a guy from the service dept told him to cut it closer to a 3 rather than a 4. Voila!! That's what it took and now it cranks with no problem.

 

Now my lights are stuck on high beam. Unless I figure this out, driving it to work tomorrow night will probably not be possible. I'm sure I will come in contact with traffic!

 

check down your steering column where the high low beam switch is hooked to the metal rod that turns them on and off and make sure everything is in working order down there. u will have to drop that bottom kick panel off to do this

 

It's easily accessible through the knee bolster, just 2 screws holding it in place ;P Purchase a haynes manual on your car's year etc. at Autozone. It tells you where everything is, every electrical connection and diagrams for everything on the car. It sounds like it's something electrical, i'll look into a little more for ya and let you know if I catch anything.

 

My high-beam switch is kind of touchy, if I pull down on the steering wheel lower than the last notch the switch works just fine. Maybe that will work to get yours off high. Here's the thread where I asked about it and put a couple pictures up.

 

it looks alot like the third gen setup if not identical. when i had this issue on my old 91, i dropped the column out and re-adjusted the rod connecting to the high beam switch, u can do this by losening a few bolts pull it a little ways and then put it back together. then the switch worked like brand new

 

I got the lights turned down the other day but holy hell I wish I hadn't changed out the switch. Now it keeps throwing security and we're getting no where. I had to get my husband and 18 year old son to rescue me from work the other night at 10:30.

Here's the run down, ignition switch changed monday. GM dealer had given me a key with resistor 4. It didn't want to go all the way in and didn't want to crank but after working with it, it would. Went and had another one cut, brought it home and it wouldn't work at all. Ended up with a key that was closer to a 3 than a 4. Last 2 days the cylinder lock wouldn't turn at all. Guy who put the cylinder on told me to use some wd40 or graphite in the key hole so I went with the graphite. Now it turns but it won't crank. it immediately flashes the security light. I refuse to quit on this car but geesh......what else is gonna happen??

Oh yeah, when it wouldn't crank and my hubby and son had to come and crank it, there was like 40 teens in the parking lot with ricers and rustangs lol. I will never give up on my car.

 

There are 15 different possible key resistance values in the VATS system. There's no such thing as "closer to a 3 than a 4". It's either a 3 or it's a 4. I'm not quite following you on what's turning, not turning, cranking, etc? The resistance value of the key will not keep you from being able to physically turn the ignition to the "on" position. But it will prevent the engine from turning over and starting if you have the wrong resistor. From your earlier description, I couldn't tell if the key/tumbler just wasn't turning for you (staying locked), or if it was turning but not letting the engine start?