Help ME I need to replace head gasket on my 94 3.4
#1
Help ME I need to replace head gasket on my 94 3.4
I need a new head gasket on my 94 3.4 i just need to know can i take the heads off in one piece without having to take off the rocker arms and lifters i dont wanna mess wit he timming at any one got any advice other then get a v-8
#2
"Messing with the timing" is the least of your problems. Getting to the head bolts is a gawdawful job. I was in the same position a year ago.
That V6 sits so low and so far back that pulling the head(s) is a truly awful job. Only the front 2 cylinders extend ahead of the windshield!
My 94 had 130k on it when I bought it with a blown head gasket. It put out stinky steam like a locomotive. Really impressive. With the high miles on the engine it seemed crazy to do just one head gasket and to do both, well, a lot more should probably be done. Mostly because the fool I bought the car from had run it for months with the bad gasket turning the oil to a nasty brown-green goo.
After trying to find a good used engine and getting screwed by a junkyard (long story) I ended up rebuilding my old engine. The shop manual procedure for pulling the engine is to disconnect *everything* and then drop the engine/trans/crossmember/rack/front suspension as one big piece. And that's what I did.
My engine is now back from the machine shop and I'm almost $3k poorer. The block was bored and new pistons fitted, new cam, sprockets, lifters, new bearings, oil pump, etc. It turned out that one of the cylinder heads had a crack so I had to replace that one.
I'm giving this car to my daughter (her first car) and she will be taking to to college this fall. I didn't want to cob something together for her and send her off to have problems hundreds of miles away.
So back to your question... Once you get to the point where you are ready to unbolt the head you just loosen all the rocker nuts to get the pushrods loose. Then you lift off the head. At reassembly you torque the head down and then rotate the crank to bring piston #1 to TDC. At that point you adjust the rockers on some of the valves. Then you rotate the crank 1 revolution and adjust the remaining valves. It's not hard. It's hard for me to imagine any way for you to install the head and torque it down properly while some of the pushrods are trying to push the head away from the block. Especially in such a tight, hard-to-access place.
That V6 sits so low and so far back that pulling the head(s) is a truly awful job. Only the front 2 cylinders extend ahead of the windshield!
My 94 had 130k on it when I bought it with a blown head gasket. It put out stinky steam like a locomotive. Really impressive. With the high miles on the engine it seemed crazy to do just one head gasket and to do both, well, a lot more should probably be done. Mostly because the fool I bought the car from had run it for months with the bad gasket turning the oil to a nasty brown-green goo.
After trying to find a good used engine and getting screwed by a junkyard (long story) I ended up rebuilding my old engine. The shop manual procedure for pulling the engine is to disconnect *everything* and then drop the engine/trans/crossmember/rack/front suspension as one big piece. And that's what I did.
My engine is now back from the machine shop and I'm almost $3k poorer. The block was bored and new pistons fitted, new cam, sprockets, lifters, new bearings, oil pump, etc. It turned out that one of the cylinder heads had a crack so I had to replace that one.
I'm giving this car to my daughter (her first car) and she will be taking to to college this fall. I didn't want to cob something together for her and send her off to have problems hundreds of miles away.
So back to your question... Once you get to the point where you are ready to unbolt the head you just loosen all the rocker nuts to get the pushrods loose. Then you lift off the head. At reassembly you torque the head down and then rotate the crank to bring piston #1 to TDC. At that point you adjust the rockers on some of the valves. Then you rotate the crank 1 revolution and adjust the remaining valves. It's not hard. It's hard for me to imagine any way for you to install the head and torque it down properly while some of the pushrods are trying to push the head away from the block. Especially in such a tight, hard-to-access place.
#3
Thanks I appreciate it ill keep you posted on how it goes im pretty good with this stuff i just dont have the tools to disasemble the heads "spring compressor" and timming are god awfull to do .
#4
its not like a import. yep ull need to take the rockers lose to get the push rods out. yep the heads are not easy to get out but could be worse. could be a v8. lol. no need to worry about timing, u have no distibutor.
#6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
That has nothing to do with this job.
Get a manual or head over to autozone can check out their repair guides.
Craby is right. You do not have to mess witht he valves spring or timing chains in these. The only adjustment is the valve clearance and it is very simple compaired to setting up a over head cam motor which is what I think your talking about.
Get a manual or head over to autozone can check out their repair guides.
Craby is right. You do not have to mess witht he valves spring or timing chains in these. The only adjustment is the valve clearance and it is very simple compaired to setting up a over head cam motor which is what I think your talking about.
Last edited by Gorn; 01-31-2010 at 05:26 AM.
#7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
"Messing with the timing" is the least of your problems. Getting to the head bolts is a gawdawful job. I was in the same position a year ago.
That V6 sits so low and so far back that pulling the head(s) is a truly awful job. Only the front 2 cylinders extend ahead of the windshield!
My 94 had 130k on it when I bought it with a blown head gasket. It put out stinky steam like a locomotive. Really impressive. With the high miles on the engine it seemed crazy to do just one head gasket and to do both, well, a lot more should probably be done. Mostly because the fool I bought the car from had run it for months with the bad gasket turning the oil to a nasty brown-green goo.
After trying to find a good used engine and getting screwed by a junkyard (long story) I ended up rebuilding my old engine. The shop manual procedure for pulling the engine is to disconnect *everything* and then drop the engine/trans/crossmember/rack/front suspension as one big piece. And that's what I did.
My engine is now back from the machine shop and I'm almost $3k poorer. The block was bored and new pistons fitted, new cam, sprockets, lifters, new bearings, oil pump, etc. It turned out that one of the cylinder heads had a crack so I had to replace that one.
I'm giving this car to my daughter (her first car) and she will be taking to to college this fall. I didn't want to cob something together for her and send her off to have problems hundreds of miles away.
So back to your question... Once you get to the point where you are ready to unbolt the head you just loosen all the rocker nuts to get the pushrods loose. Then you lift off the head. At reassembly you torque the head down and then rotate the crank to bring piston #1 to TDC. At that point you adjust the rockers on some of the valves. Then you rotate the crank 1 revolution and adjust the remaining valves. It's not hard. It's hard for me to imagine any way for you to install the head and torque it down properly while some of the pushrods are trying to push the head away from the block. Especially in such a tight, hard-to-access place.
That V6 sits so low and so far back that pulling the head(s) is a truly awful job. Only the front 2 cylinders extend ahead of the windshield!
My 94 had 130k on it when I bought it with a blown head gasket. It put out stinky steam like a locomotive. Really impressive. With the high miles on the engine it seemed crazy to do just one head gasket and to do both, well, a lot more should probably be done. Mostly because the fool I bought the car from had run it for months with the bad gasket turning the oil to a nasty brown-green goo.
After trying to find a good used engine and getting screwed by a junkyard (long story) I ended up rebuilding my old engine. The shop manual procedure for pulling the engine is to disconnect *everything* and then drop the engine/trans/crossmember/rack/front suspension as one big piece. And that's what I did.
My engine is now back from the machine shop and I'm almost $3k poorer. The block was bored and new pistons fitted, new cam, sprockets, lifters, new bearings, oil pump, etc. It turned out that one of the cylinder heads had a crack so I had to replace that one.
I'm giving this car to my daughter (her first car) and she will be taking to to college this fall. I didn't want to cob something together for her and send her off to have problems hundreds of miles away.
So back to your question... Once you get to the point where you are ready to unbolt the head you just loosen all the rocker nuts to get the pushrods loose. Then you lift off the head. At reassembly you torque the head down and then rotate the crank to bring piston #1 to TDC. At that point you adjust the rockers on some of the valves. Then you rotate the crank 1 revolution and adjust the remaining valves. It's not hard. It's hard for me to imagine any way for you to install the head and torque it down properly while some of the pushrods are trying to push the head away from the block. Especially in such a tight, hard-to-access place.
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