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Build thread: Powerdyne supercharged 3800 96 camaro

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  #1  
Old 07-03-2010, 08:02 PM
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Default Build thread: Powerdyne supercharged 3800 96 camaro

Ok, so this http://media.firebirdv6.com/vectorsupercharger.html is the new plan.

I ordered (a) powerdyne BD11 kit of an lt1 that has most everything i need. got a HELL of a deal.

Things to do:
1. Install pacesetter headers, 3"cat, and (Z28 2 1/2" mainpipe) <-cause i have it laying around....

2. Mount SC. (hopefully can source some original 3800 brackets from folks who are servicing powerdyne units and parts) if not, mod LT1 ones or: fab new ones based on the pics i have seen.

3. Machine pulley to run off the smooth side of the belt.
a. decide which of the two pullys will fit my plans best 6psi or 9psi

4. figure out tensioner set-up

5. Figure out intake and outlet pipe routes to designated areas. (Throttle body and air intake)

6. Install 255lph walbro in line fuel pump (came with kit)

7. Wire up boost and fuel pressure guages (came with kit)

8. Get it tuned. (have tuner set boost retard)


Things i need help with: That i can think of off the top of my head....
1. Who makes a (preferably cheap) boost retard unit compatible with 96 3800 camaros? (not included with kit)

2. Do i need to upgrade the ignition? If so how? (not included with kit) Quote: "to much of a hassle to pull off his car" -Lazy Bum.

3. Will the stock injectors keep me covered? I can't find anywhere it has said to upgrade them....?

4. Edit: Install a blow of valve. Where can i find a good/cheap one???

5. anything i forgot?


lastly: Any suggestions or advice? This is my first supercharged car so feel free to chim in
 

Last edited by midwestdave33; 07-04-2010 at 12:30 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-03-2010, 11:33 PM
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You will need to come up with a plan. What do you want from the car? What are you willing to give up? HP cost money. If you limit yourself to 260-280 HP you could get aways with upgrading the head gaskets and fuel injectors. If you go much more then that you will have issues with your drive line, cooling system and your Pistons .

Talk to your tuner about the best way to protect your motor, Ignition should be fine assuming its all in good working condition.
 
  #3  
Old 07-04-2010, 06:19 AM
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Nah you can easily go to 300 hp on the stock pistons... 9 PSI would get you roughly to 325 hp or so I would guess. Good tuning is what you need. I know for a fact the stock bottom end can handle 15 psi with CORRECT tuning. But how often do you see it done right? 8 PSI can be done with no tuning just make sure you tune for boost retard. Set up an intercooler and you'll be able to get to the 15 PSI mark I said with the correct tuning set up.

The entire driveline is perfectly suitable for 300+ IF you have an auto. If not, you'll need to build the T5. I could tell you more but I don't have the time right now.
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 10:45 AM
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I am aways on the conservative side. You have not mention head gasket. You are upgrading your head gaskets? You realize that the head gaskets are a weak point on this engine to begin with. You really want to get a head gasket designed for boost. Also the general condition of the car needs to be taken into account. How many miles on on the tranny? V6 trannys in there stock form do not have as many clutch and plates as the V8 counter parts. Its an easy fix while rebuilding it but the factory will save every penny possible.

Cooling system needs to be flushed and working 100%. I would not trust a cooling system that was designed to handle a 200 HP engine to handle a two hours of aggresive driving on 100 deg day with 300+ HP. Remember for every 1 hp you get 1 hp worth of heat.



Originally Posted by evilkal
8 PSI can be done with no tuning just make sure you tune for boost retard.
So he will not need any tune as long as its tuned for boost I know what you mean, but if he is taking it to get tuned for boost retard he might as well get it tuned
 
  #5  
Old 07-04-2010, 12:55 PM
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First question, pray tell, what was this "hell of a deal" you got? ;-)
 
  #6  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn
You will need to come up with a plan. What do you want from the car? What are you willing to give up? HP cost money. If you limit yourself to 260-280 HP you could get aways with upgrading the head gaskets and fuel injectors. If you go much more then that you will have issues with your drive line, cooling system and your Pistons .

Talk to your tuner about the best way to protect your motor, Ignition should be fine assuming its all in good working condition.

I am not going to go to crazy. I have an automatic trans, and I am shooting for the 250RWHP horse power range.(maybe less) And yes the tune will be fairly conservative because i wan't to ABOVE ALL protect my stock engine. What size fuel injectors should i be looking at?

Originally Posted by evilkal
Nah you can easily go to 300 hp on the stock pistons... 9 PSI would get you roughly to 325 hp or so I would guess. Good tuning is what you need. I know for a fact the stock bottom end can handle 15 psi with CORRECT tuning. But how often do you see it done right? 8 PSI can be done with no tuning just make sure you tune for boost retard. Set up an intercooler and you'll be able to get to the 15 PSI mark I said with the correct tuning set up.

The entire driveline is perfectly suitable for 300+ IF you have an auto. If not, you'll need to build the T5. I could tell you more but I don't have the time right now.
I do not want to go over 9psi. And like i said i have an auto trans. I plan on taking it to a professional tuner right from the first start up. On that note... Is it safe to start it up and gently drive it to the tuner?

Originally Posted by Gorn
I am aways on the conservative side. You have not mention head gasket. You are upgrading your head gaskets? You realize that the head gaskets are a weak point on this engine to begin with. You really want to get a head gasket designed for boost. Also the general condition of the car needs to be taken into account. How many miles on on the tranny? V6 trannys in there stock form do not have as many clutch and plates as the V8 counter parts. Its an easy fix while rebuilding it but the factory will save every penny possible.

Cooling system needs to be flushed and working 100%. I would not trust a cooling system that was designed to handle a 200 HP engine to handle a two hours of aggresive driving on 100 deg day with 300+ HP. Remember for every 1 hp you get 1 hp worth of heat.

So he will not need any tune as long as its tuned for boost I know what you mean, but if he is taking it to get tuned for boost retard he might as well get it tuned
The condition of the car is excellent. It has less than 95,000 miles and has had a good life. I changed the fluid and filter on the trans and flushed it completely as soon as i bought the car. The cooling system is also in good condition. I also, as soon as i bought the car, flushed the whole system to get rid of the orange antifreeze known for gelling up. It now has a freshly rodded out radiator.

Concerning head gaskets: I really don't plan on messing with them unless i have problems. If my conservative goals cause head gasket problems i will promptly correct the problem as soon as it pops up with the correct gaskets. I am gonna go with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" But, "if it breaks fix it right so it don't break again" philosophy.

And i am going to get it tuned right and right away. Both for boost retard and general tuning as well. I know a place that has a dyno and all the air fuel guages to make sure she is running in the safe range 100% of the time.

Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
First question, pray tell, what was this "hell of a deal" you got? ;-)

My lips are sealed. I don't want to be road out of the forum on a rail ;-) Lets just say i couldn't say no. Easier fabrication, more power potential, not having to mod my hard parts on the engine + what i paid for all the setup = One hell of a deal.

 

Last edited by midwestdave33; 07-04-2010 at 01:17 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:26 PM
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Get FFF LT Headers, if you are going to go with the SC setup. If funds are an issue, at least plan for them later. Granted you aren't going for 500 RWHP, but this link might give you some hints about considerations for your project:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...heads-cam.html

Also keep in mind, you can get upto 270-280 SAE HP at the flywheel (~230 RWHP) WITHOUT A SC, so this guide should be helpful to consider for your project too:
http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/index.htm

Might want to start with the lower PSI first and work your way up once you get everything setup and tested.

Are you going to tune it yourself, or what Tuner tool do you have or plan to get?

Who makes the kit? I would call the kit manufacturers first to ask some questions and then circle back here.

Regardless, I would consider MSD wires, as they are much better quality than the stockers, especially the extended boots for the plugs. I went with the Denso IT-20 Iridium plugs, as recommended in the Tom Henry RS Camarohomepage link above. What other ignition upgrades did the "lazy bum" have? ;-)


Originally Posted by midwestdave33
Ok, so this http://media.firebirdv6.com/vectorsupercharger.html is the new plan.

I ordered (a) powerdyne BD11 kit of an lt1 that has most everything i need. got a HELL of a deal.

Things to do:
1. Install pacesetter headers, 3"cat, and (Z28 2 1/2" mainpipe) <-cause i have it laying around....

2. Mount SC. (hopefully can source some original 3800 brackets from folks who are servicing powerdyne units and parts) if not, mod LT1 ones or: fab new ones based on the pics i have seen.

3. Machine pulley to run off the smooth side of the belt.
a. decide which of the two pullys will fit my plans best 6psi or 9psi

4. figure out tensioner set-up

5. Figure out intake and outlet pipe routes to designated areas. (Throttle body and air intake)

6. Install 255lph walbro in line fuel pump (came with kit)

7. Wire up boost and fuel pressure guages (came with kit)

8. Get it tuned. (have tuner set boost retard)


Things i need help with: That i can think of off the top of my head....
1. Who makes a (preferably cheap) boost retard unit compatible with 96 3800 camaros? (not included with kit)

2. Do i need to upgrade the ignition? If so how? (not included with kit) Quote: "to much of a hassle to pull off his car" -Lazy Bum.

3. Will the stock injectors keep me covered? I can't find anywhere it has said to upgrade them....?

4. Edit: Install a blow of valve. Where can i find a good/cheap one???

5. anything i forgot?


lastly: Any suggestions or advice? This is my first supercharged car so feel free to chim in
 
  #8  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:37 PM
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Get FFF LT Headers, if you are going to go with the SC setup. Might want to start with the lower PSI first and work your way up once you get everything setup and tested.

Are you going to tune it yourself, or what Tuner tool do you have or plan to get?

Who makes the kit? I would call the kit manufacturers first to ask some questions and then circle back here.

Regardless, I would consider MSD wires, as they are much better quality than the stockers, especially the extended boots for the plugs. I went with the Denso IT-20 Iridium plugs, as recommended in the Tom Henry RS Camarohomepage link above. What other ignition upgrades did the "lazy bum" have? ;-)
I simply cant afford the fff headers. Paceserters are on their way. I do plan on starting with the lower boost level first. No, i will not be tuning it myself. Going to a local tuner with a dyno and all the correct sensors and s**t to get it right. The kit was a powerdyne unit (now out of business) I am in contact with the guys who took over servicing their kits and am using them as a source as well as you guys ;-) I'll consider the wires... thanks.
Edit: He had either an msd or crane ignition box with a built it boost retard......

And lastly:Pics are comming! as soon as i get the kit and the headers and start installing them i'll document with pics. hard to show pics of s**t that hasn't gotten here yet!
 

Last edited by midwestdave33; 07-04-2010 at 02:09 PM.
  #10  
Old 07-04-2010, 08:55 PM
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Is this: http://www.amazon.com/OBX-Red-Univer.../dp/B002G4X41U

a suitable blow off valve to make sure my belt driven PYDE SC lives a long and healthy life in my car? I hear idleing and slamming the Throttle blades shut after WOT are absolute hell on the head unit... I really want to get this right the first time!
 


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