My gf has a 2000 Base model and the A/C hasn't worked for years. She took it to a shop a while back and I don't know what they told her, but it was going to be expensive. She seems to thing they said 'compressor'.

I bought a few cans of r134a with dye. One had a sealer. I charged the system and got awesome cold air. The compressor was running and sounded fine. I didn't see anything major wrong. However, the pressure dived and basically only held a charge for a day at the most. I could see the pressure go from 37 to 35psi in about 10 minutes. But, I had figured on it not holding a charge but I wanted to find what would seem to be a major leak with my UV light.

There was fresh splatterings (bright green) around my accumulator from my error. Then there was a faint color on all of my components that I deducted had already been there. Either from an earlier a/c testing, OR most likely radiator fluid or engine oil. I say this b/c there is engine oil residue all in the compartment and it is showing a faint reaction with the UV light. Also, the faint color showed up on some radiator hoses where I found a radiator leak and subsequent radiator splatterings.

I was planning on finding new dye all around my compressor or around the back side where the hoses connect. There are small dots of UV dye, I think, but I would think there would be more. I would have pulled it and replaced o-rings and seals. But now, it doesn't appear to be on anything visible so I'm thinking a major evaporator leak.

Does this sound likely? I don't mind taking on any level of DIY, but I don't want to just throw parts at something. Plus, I don't know how to access the evap. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

When the front seal on the compressor leaks the dye does not really show up on the compressor. It is whiped around and it shows up on the rad hoses and inner fenders, it get all over the engine compartment. Evaporators leaks are pretty rare, they do happen. On the other had compressor front seals is one of the most common problems. Also a front seal leak is very easy to find with a leak detector. Chances are your GF mechanic was right.

You are evacuating the system everytime it runs out before you install more Freon?

 

It's always the compressor when it's all over the place, I got mine on eBay $50.00 shipped! (used)

 

I have a spare just pay shipping.

 

No I didn't evacuate the system. I've only charged it that once. If I remove the compressor and replace the seal and o-rings, I'll flush out the system. With some flush and my air compressor. I'm looking at Advance Auto and the only gasket/o-ring kit they have (for my camaro) is this one. Do you think this one has the front seal?

Also, I guess I should replace the accumulator even though I don't want to spend any more money than I have to. Do you think I can get away with keeping the same one? From my research, I should drain the oil from the accumulator and the compressor and replace that amount back into the system. From my lookings online, it looks like the oil for this car should be PAG 150. Do I get the aerosol one and add it to the low side port?

I also would replace the orifice tube.

 

That would be awesome. If it works fine, I might do that. I wanted to make sure it was the compressor first. But if the seal kit from AA covers everything I need, I might just rebuild mine since it wouldn't be that hard. But I am grateful for the offer!

 

Flushing a system is only need when you have a compressor fail and puts metal in the system or a acumalator fail and dumps silicate (I think that is whats its called) all thru the system. You need to vacuum out the system anytime it is open. The moiture in the air will cause your system to freeze up and not blow cold, and even cause your compressor to fail prematurly. There is a lot of water in our air way more then enough to screw up the system. The dryer is will catch mositure and keep it from doing any damage but it has a very limited capacity. In fact it is designed to handle the mositure that is put in at assembly. What you can do is leave the system under vacuum for 2 hours and that should remove all mositure.

I even go as far as purging the line between the bottle and the gage to make sure no water is in there. If you have a decent compressore you can buy a cheap Vacuum pump from Harbor freight. It is not a good idea if you plan on doing a lot of AC work but if you are using once or twice a year it will work. If you have a 110v compressor will have a tuff time keeping up. You should beable to close off your gage while the compressor catchs up.

 

Thanks. Since the compressor runs smoothly, I don't think I threw any bearings or otherwise damaged the metal parts of the compressor so it sounds like if I replace seals and vacuum the system, I should be good to go (hopefully). I've eyed the vacuum from Harbor Freight, and it seems like the way to go. I have a 2 hp pancake compressor that is rated at 5scfm@90psi but that is pushing it. It would constantly be cycling which worries me b/c it is not continuous duty. Think I'd be okay?

I just called Advance and the o-ring kit I posted about doesn't include any seals. It is just an o-ring kit.

 

The reason the mechainc told your GF you need a compressor is becuase the front seal is a ceramic seal it is not easy to replace. You need custom tools that only work on GM compressors. The seals themself can only be bought thru the dealer and the tools can only be bought thru Kentmore (aka GM tools) the tools alone will cost more then the AC compressore and many times the shaft has too much damage/wear to saved anyway. Even at the dealership with a high miles cars they recommend replacing the compressor because they can spend a half an hour just to tell you the compressor is shot.

About the oil. There are mins for the oil. If you only drain 2oz or less from the compressor the replace it with 2oz. There is a chart in the GM manual. If I get a chance I would look it up.

 

With a compressor that small your going to have to stay with it and whenever the vacuum starts to drop close off the valve. disconnect the pump and let your compressor catch up.
I have the largest 110V compressor you can get with a 33 gal tank and mine can not keep up without stopping 3 or 4 times in the 2 hours.