Well, I've got a really rough running engine with misfires. After warming up for about 5 minutes, I get white smoke coming from the passenger side cylinder head area.

http://youtu.be/U35PNuDXUtk

I previously had white smoke out the exhaust and used Steel Seal (cylinder head crack fixer) and it was gone and ran perfectly for 2 days then this started. Still no white smoke out of the exhaust. When the engine stops after just idling for 5 minutes, there is a boiling and searing sound coming from that cylinder head.

http://youtu.be/O-IS9fjNkVg

My oil pressure reads high (about 90-100) even though I have gradually manually drained the oil from being halfway in the hashed area on the dipstick to below the actual text that says "Add 1 qt."

I've got code p0300 Random Multiple Misfire and my scanner shows misfires on 1 and 5. I understand that the passenger bank is even numbers, but the scanner is a smartphone app with one of the Ebay chinese bluetooth ODBII transmitters...

My oil is not milky and my coolant doesn't look oily, nor is it boiling. What in the hell is going on here? I don't mind going with a solution on the cheap end of the scale, seeing as how this isn't going to be a high performance vehicle and I'm just trying to get it running well so I can sell it.

EDIT: I have already changed the plugs, wires, and coils. Fuel pressure tests normal with a gauge and fuel filter replaced.

 

You already tried the cheap fix and it did not work. The motor is done for. The head sealer has plugged up the block and coolant can not flow. There is no fix for this. Infact it is time for a new motor. Where you really trying to sell a car with blown Headgaskets without telling someone of the issue? Cause if you where that would be a pretty low life scum bag move.

 

No, I wasn't. That's why I said I'm trying to get it running well. A head gasket leak isn't exactly what you would call running well.

Is this stuff sealing up the block a common issue? Why would it have ran fine for 2 days, and how does that explain the misfire?

EDIT: Is it possible that it just plugged up the radiator or hoses somewhere?

 

a blown head gasket is a blown head gasket. uning a temp fix can last 2 days or 2 years. the coolant leak fix stuff will go to the leak and harden. if leak is big the stuff will clog in a larger mass and if it comes lose it will clog the cooling passages.

 

I suppose the question now is whether or not there is a way to unclog the cooling passages. I have no problem tearing the engine down to the heads and replacing all the gaskets and getting the heads tested for cracks as long as there is a way for me to unclog the passages.

 

i would say look around for a low miles 3.8 in your area, common motor in many cars. short block (the block and heads) from most any gm 3.8 series 2 or 3 will work, use series 3 if you can, little more power. compare with cost for head work and all things connected with doing a head gasket job. if your doing this to sell you will most likely not get the money back invested in doing a head gasket job or motor change. that is unless your doing the work yourself.

 

I would be doing the work myself. I'm just wondering if it's going to be worth it. If I tear the top end apart but I have irreparably clogged coolant passages in my block, it would be quite a waste of time. I'm definitely not interested in doing a motor swap to sell so if that's the case I would rather just try to sell it as is and make at least a few bucks.


EDIT: What about a chemical coolant system flush? Worth a shot, or just bad news for all the other parts in the coolant system?

 

The stuff just get too hard, A machine shop acid bath is about the only way to get it out. I have had machine shop guys tell me it can take two of three times as long to clean out a block that has had this tuff in it. I wish they would put warning lables on the headgasket repair kits "may fix you car or render your motor unrepairable" Most people that are willing to try this will not pay for a complete rebuild,

FYI the reason for random misfire is because coolant is still getting into the cylinders and the moisture is shorting the plug.

 

may want to look at parting it out. what year is it

 

It's a 99 with the Y87 package. If I can find a 3800 engine for cheap enough, I just might do the swap. It could end up being worth the extra time depending on the amount of extra money it would bring at sale time.