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2002 RS DEAD-No crank, no start, no lights(sort of)

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Old 11-21-2011, 01:38 AM
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Default 2002 RS DEAD-No crank, no start, no lights(sort of)

I'm just checking to see if anybody has experienced this same problem, here goes:

It's been rainy heavily here, San Luis Obispo, CA. Went to work, car drove fine. Parked it. Five hours later, went to go start it. Cranked fine, for about 1 second. Then dead. Completely dead. The car died mid crank. It was cranking fast and strong. No exterior lights, not dash lights, interior lights okay, weird clicking sound coming from dashboard/security light on dashboard blinking really fast. I disconnected the battery in order to reset the system, no go. Still no light, no crank, security light blinking fast, but goes away when I turn the key to key position 2. At key 2, all interior lights, security lights are dead. I tried jumping the car, but that did nothing. Tried two different cars with two different sets of jumper cables. No go. I'm somewhat perplexed. Can a battery die that fast, half way through a crank and be completely dead?

I am sorry for the lack of troubleshooting, I just moved to this town without any of my tools to attend school. I used to be an automotive tech, limited experience on Volvos, so feel free to shoot me any trouble shooting suggestions. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:11 AM
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sounds like vats is acting up. heres some info on it. 25 26 27 on the list here 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the reply Craby, great information. My security light had been on for 3 or 4 years and I had experienced some issues before with a defective pellet. But even then, I had lights.
-I am going to disconnect the battery, then use jumpers from a good battery straight to my negative and positive leads. I suppose this way, I can completely rule out the battery.

I'll see where this leads. Thanks in advance guys!
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:05 AM
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pick up a volt/ohm meter so you can test the wires.
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:34 PM
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Okay, so I hooked up Jumper cables from a known good battery straight to my negative and positive leads. No go, car still dead. Then I found an auxiliary battery post on the fuse box, connected my positive jumper cable to that and connected the negative lead to an engine ground. Car cranked. Interesting. I ended up buying and Optima RedTop and sticking it in there. Car runs great.

Intriguing how the car didn't react to jumper cables hooked up straight to the negative and positive leads. I am also baffled by how a batter can turn the engine over fine and die mid crank. I put a meter across the bad battery and it read 12.67 volts under no load...weird that I didn't have any lights whatsoever though. Oh well. Car is fixed and I am happy. Thanks Craby.
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:48 PM
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I was going to suggest just testing the battery. My wife's yukon did something like that. Cranked fine day after day. Drove one afternoon, parked, tried to start again, and nothing. Battery was dead as a hammer. Glad that's all it was for you.
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:40 PM
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i would say you have a wiring issue somewhere. could be the connections in the power juncton box, red plastic box on the passenger side fenderwell. by the battery. take the wires off and clean the wire ends, wire brush the heck outa them, do the sam with the battery cables and terminals.
 
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