Standard Vs. Auto
#1
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Alright well I've driven both.. andfrom what I could tellStandard is faster because you can control the RPM's off the take off, and do a little hop forward when you shift. Also, it's better on gas mileage cuz you can keep the RPM's down better than an auto. What (if any) other bonuses or disadvantages to either system?
#2
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The standard may be more fun driving around in light traffic, but on a drag strip, all things being equal, the automatic will get the jump on the standard off the line, and unless the person driving the standard is really good at stirring the gears, the auto will reach the finish line first.
#3
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a standerd can handle more power stock then auto, there is normal less maintince that needs to be down to a standerd, i think what pete says is true when u get below the 11sec 1/4 time but if u can shift right and do it quick i think the stick can beat a equal car. Sticks r better on gas cause u can run the rpms u want in the gear u want. plus if ur trans goes and u have a stick in most cases u can get a gear or 2 to get u home and if an auto goes ur screwed. but thats just what i know from exp
#4
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[&:] couple things to consider first whats your primary use for the car and or what do you want to use it for. the rpms at take off in an automatic can be controlled to an extent by use of a torque converter if your intent is drag racing. mileage will indeed be generaly better in a manual mostly because of no loss of energy in fluid transfer that the automatic uses. As for rpm control through gear selection saving gas, well there is diminishing return to factor in when too high a gear is selected as youll have your foot a little farther into the gas in an attempt to maintain the same speed the previous gear pulled easily(very little gas pedal).
I like auto/manual for different reasons and purposes. The manual i like for road course or good spirited windy road driving. The clutch work required for stop and go traffic on the daily commute SUCKS. The automatic works well for drag racing and put it in Drive and go (set it and forget it) As for overall costs to operate well id guess they are pretty close to the same especially if you have to pay someone else to do the work. clutch replacement every 75-100000 miles or auto trans rebuild usually around 200000 miles. I know i know theres 10000 variables there so dont email and argue the point. both need fluid changes and the manual could require a rebuild at some point as well but i think if you pencil it out the operating costs will be close to each other.
As for the hop forward when shifting you mentioned its not beneficial or good for the drive train. If drag racing that hop forward was most likely preceeded by letting off the gas and pushing in the clutch both of which are exactly the opposite of what you want to be doing to get down the track. in other words your losing the application of power in the pursuit of forward momentum. the lurch you feel is an artificial loading and shock of the drivetrain that often is the cause of much scattered parts. lurch goes away quickly as engine rpm comes down to match drive train speed. this is not the case with automatics as you can keep the rpm's up(foot in the gas) and the trans always has the driveline loaded kurt
I like auto/manual for different reasons and purposes. The manual i like for road course or good spirited windy road driving. The clutch work required for stop and go traffic on the daily commute SUCKS. The automatic works well for drag racing and put it in Drive and go (set it and forget it) As for overall costs to operate well id guess they are pretty close to the same especially if you have to pay someone else to do the work. clutch replacement every 75-100000 miles or auto trans rebuild usually around 200000 miles. I know i know theres 10000 variables there so dont email and argue the point. both need fluid changes and the manual could require a rebuild at some point as well but i think if you pencil it out the operating costs will be close to each other.
As for the hop forward when shifting you mentioned its not beneficial or good for the drive train. If drag racing that hop forward was most likely preceeded by letting off the gas and pushing in the clutch both of which are exactly the opposite of what you want to be doing to get down the track. in other words your losing the application of power in the pursuit of forward momentum. the lurch you feel is an artificial loading and shock of the drivetrain that often is the cause of much scattered parts. lurch goes away quickly as engine rpm comes down to match drive train speed. this is not the case with automatics as you can keep the rpm's up(foot in the gas) and the trans always has the driveline loaded kurt
#5
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Wow, thanks for the quick replys.. so for just driving around town with the occasional quick race, maybe even in the future power it up auto would be better?
If I got auto would I have to get any special pieces or any electronic work so that it would be able to shift properly if I was racing?
If I got auto would I have to get any special pieces or any electronic work so that it would be able to shift properly if I was racing?
#6
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![EEK!](https://camaroforums.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#7
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I also have had both, and there are cases where one is better than the other. What has not been covered is the cost when the tranny goes out. A clutch is a LOT cheaper to replace than an automatic transmission, and if it says "electronically controlled" figure on adding another several hundred to an already outrageous price.
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