Reverse is royally screwed.
#1
Reverse is royally screwed.
Ok so ever since I put a new tranny mount in my car, reverse has been messed up. For example: I have a 250 foot driveway. All uphill from the road to the house. I'll put my car in reverse just to get it moving and then hold down the clutch and just let it coast to the road. All while it's coasting and still in reverse with the clutch IN, it hums really loud. If I pull it out of gear while coasting the humming stops. Also when backing out of parking places or just backing up in general, I can't let my clutch all the way out. Because if I do, it kicks itself out of gear. I've tried holding the shifter in place by force while letting the clutch out and all that did was made it kick out of gear and grind like a ****. If I pull back really hard I can get it to stay in gear but it pops really loudly continuously and tries to kick itself out of gear. Does anyone know what's wrong with my car?
#2
Reverse generally makes a whine noise because it's a straight-cut gear.
Starting with the simpler stuff first....what kind of a trans mount did you use?
Any chance the shifter movement is now bound up against the console?
Starting with the simpler stuff first....what kind of a trans mount did you use?
Any chance the shifter movement is now bound up against the console?
#3
I used a z28 mount. It mounts the same but it dropped the tranny about half an inch. So I put washers under the mount. That didn't fix the problem. But when the trans was lower from the mount, yes it hit the shift plate. So much that it cracked my shift plate when I was racing and hit 2nd gear. But it's not hitting the shift plate now that I have the washers under the mount. That still didn't fix it though.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
Remove your console and see if the issue goes away. Since reverse is non-sync'ed straight cut gear poping out of gear is almost always a shifter/linkage issue.
BTW you want to make sure your tranny is back to where the factory had it set. If it is not then it will cause vibration that will cause issues with your trans and rear down the road. Here is a link I found that explains drive line angles. Look at the diagram and picture what dropping the tranny lower would do to that.
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php
BTW you want to make sure your tranny is back to where the factory had it set. If it is not then it will cause vibration that will cause issues with your trans and rear down the road. Here is a link I found that explains drive line angles. Look at the diagram and picture what dropping the tranny lower would do to that.
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php
#5
Well even when I try to hold the shifter in reverse, it tries to kick out. And when I force it to stay in reverse it pop's really loud. As if my trans or u-joints are hitting the underneath of my car. I'm sure it's not the console. I took the shift plate out and it wasn't touching anything. So I'm thinking it's this dang mount. I don't have much choice though because I rip right through the factory mounts. I need something beefier. Does anyone know if they make a performance series mount for my car. I'm pretty set on the mount being my issue now...
#6
I'm trying to think why the mount would cause that, if it really isn't causing a linkage bind. But it's too coincidental that the problem started right after the mount change. You can get a poly mount, AutoZone has them (the one near me does anyway). Keep in mind a poly mount will transfer more drivetrain vibes through the body. That bothers some people, but I didn't mind it. To me, the good outweighed the bad, and the difference was minimal.
#7
I saw the poly mount at AutoZone. It's a universal GM mount though. And it's lower profile than the z28 mount that I used this time around (which was too low to begin with). So how can I make it sit higher? I don't want to use washers. They're flimsy.
#8
Looking at both mounts, the v6 one to me looks like it has more of a ramp to it on the cross-member side (in addition to the height difference). Did you compare the two side by side? I'm wondering if maybe you have a driveline angle issue going on there. Since the mounts are so different, you'd prolly be better off putting on the right one, and don't go ripping on it.
Edit: Energy Suspension's site doesn't show a v6 application.
Edit: Energy Suspension's site doesn't show a v6 application.
Last edited by Camaro 69; 01-26-2011 at 03:45 PM.
#10
Angled, where the mounting surface attaches to the crossmember. Even though it's a different style, I don't recall my Z28 mount being angled like that. I can look at my old one to double check, but I'm fairly positive both mounting surfaces are parallel.
Your v6 mount: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Another thought too, this stock mount for your car is "hydraulic" which is for absorbing shock and vibrations. Is that what's making a difference...perhaps...maybe?
Your v6 mount: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Another thought too, this stock mount for your car is "hydraulic" which is for absorbing shock and vibrations. Is that what's making a difference...perhaps...maybe?