Spindle replacement : How to
 

You will need:
1/2 inch and 3/8 inch socket sets
13mm (socket and wrench)
18mm (socket or wrench)
19mm (socket)
22mm (wrench + socket)
15mm (wrench)
3/8 hex key
Assortment of cauter pins
Needle nose pliers (for cauter pin)
small screwdriver(to help with cauter pin removal)
Big *** hammer or sledgehammer
C- Clamp
Impact gun helps much, but isn't necessary.
Rubber mallet (helps but isnt necessary)
Vice (helps but isnt necessary)
[Optional]
Wire wheel or brush
220 grit or lower sandpaper
Vht epoxy suspension paint

Step 1: remove center cap (if you have one)
Step 2: remove wheel with 19mm socket
Step 3: loosen the 3/8 hex keys holding in the caliper. Then you take it off, it might need some persuasion. Kick it or use a rubber mallet.
Step 4: unclip the abs sensor
Step 5: remove all the cauter pins on the tie rod, ball joint, and upper control arm bushing.
Step 6: loosen those same bolts you just removed the cauter pins from. Do not remove the bolts yet, just keep them loose for now.
Step 6: start bashing on the tie rod with a hammer. Make sure the bolt is still on there so you dont crush the threads.
Step 7: start bashing the ball joint. The easiest way to do this is to keep the bolt on there. Take a metal pipe and either put it on top of the bolt or next to the ball joint on the lower control arm. Start bashing the **** out of it until it pops loose. It will be a PITA.
Step 8: bash the upper control arm loose.
Take a smaller hammer and start hitting on the bolt. Try jamming a pry bar in there and lift up on the control arm and it seems to help.
Step 9: the ball joint still may be stuck on the spindle. Just bash the **** out of it. It will come loose with some persuasion with a sledgehammer.
Step 10: you still might have the wheel bearing stuck to the spindle. Pop out the studs so when you hit the wheel bearing with a sledgehammer that they wont bend or snap. Just put your lug nuts on them and give it a good tap and they should pop out. Do that 5 times. Depending on where you live it may be welded on there with rust. With some persistency you will get the bearing removed.
IMPORTANT!!!! - Compare both the parts and see if you got the right one. Mine should have 2 metal pointy things coming out of it since mine is the lt1 platform.
[Skip this is you have a new one or don't want to paint yours] (steps 11- 15)
Step 11: take a wire brush or wheel and start removing rust and dirt that has been caked on there for years. It will take a while.
Brake clean and elbow grease basically.
Step 12: once you get the spindle looking okay, start sanding it down with 220 grit. Honestly the grit doesnt matter as long as it equals 220 grit or lower. Orbital sander helps a lot along with a wire wheel. It will take a bit.
Step 13: once you get it down to almost bare metal you are pretty much ready for paint
I used vht epoxy suspension paint. Since it's for suspension components and you dont have to prime it, that's what I used and reccomend it at the time of this post.
Step 14: light coats at first, wait 10 minutes for each coat. I did 4 coats, and ramped up my coverage each time. First and second coat were light. 3rd was a medium coat and 4th was a heavy coat. Make sure you pay attention to the nooks and crannies of the spindle.
Step 15: once you ran out of painful in your can, let it dry for an hour and it'll be ready to put back on the car.

Step 16: set the spindle on the lca and connect the upper control arm and the tie rod. Hand tighten all the bolts as far as you can go.
Step 17: this is where it gets annoying/tricky. The studs holding in the tie rod, lca bushing, and the upper control arm may spin and not let you tighten them. This is a common issue with all of these. I reccomend putting a jack under your lca and try that. It will be trial and error, but you will eventually get it. Do the same thing for the tie rod and put a jack under that.
Step 18: for the upper control arm I suggest using a c lamp and set it on there. I bent mine when doing this so be careful. That should get it compressed enough where you can actually get the nut on the bolt.
Step 19: slide all the cauter pins into the tie rod, upper, and lower control arm bolts. You may need to tighten and loosen the bolts to see the hole to slide it in. Always use new ones so the old ones dont break and you have your suspension break at 70 and expode into a fiery death. Get an assortment of them. You can get them on amazon or an auto parts store
Step 20: double check all the bolts to make sure they are tight and well secured. Then plug the abs sensor back in
Step 21: slide the brake caliper back on. It may not go on because the piston decompressed when you took it off the car. Use a c-clamp to compress it. Also the stupid pins may prevent you from putting it back on, so use a screwdriver and a hammer and lightly tap on those pins to slide them back I to the caliper. At that point you should be able to get it on with ease. Double check to Make sure your pads are in there right.
Step 22: put the wheel back on with a 19mm socket
Step 23: put the lug nuts on as hard as you can tighten the while the car is in the air. Dont put the center cap back on yet.
Step 24: lower the car back down, and proceed to tighten the lug nuts up. You can either torque them to spec or just use feel or an impact.
Step 25: put the center cap back on
Step 26: enjoy the fact that you accomplished something that a ship would've charged you
$700 for. You just did it for about 1/8th of the cost.
I'm gonna try and include pics at some point.