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Project Basic Bish
5 Attachment(s)
Hi all, new to the forum, but not new to the F-body. A little history, my first car was a 91 Camaro rs 3.1 converted to a carbureted 355 pushing 470whp. Had to sell it when I blew the trans (was in college and had no money to fix). 2 yrs later I bought another 91 350 5spd (trying to fill the empty void in my heart from my first love). After getting it home, realized it was idling high (timing issue). Corrected the timing and heard a knocking coming from the bottom end. Pulled the motor put new bearings in it and due to being young/dumb and on a budget. I cut corners and didn't get the crank checked. Needless to say, it ran great for about a month before the knock returned. Parked it for a year and sold it.
So here it is, 10yrs later and I bought my new project and this time it's going to be done right. No cut corners and with time and money on my side, I'm hoping to build a 1000+ whp twin turbo LS car (go from basic b**ch to a bad b**ch). I'm creating this thread to document the build and to bounce ideas off of fellow f-body owners. She's a 99 Camaro RS with a cooked 3.8. I picked her up for $600. https://camaroforums.com/forum/attac...1&d=1453429460 https://camaroforums.com/forum/attac...1&d=1453429460 Today I pulled the interior and the front end off the car, after removing the plastics in the rear hatch, I noticed damage to the rear quarter. gotta love Craigslist, "never been in an accident" he says. pretty sure thats bondo. https://camaroforums.com/forum/attac...1&d=1453429675 So I leveled the car took measurements and the frame seems to be ok. Looks like I'll be pushing forward. Tomorrow I'll get the cage ordered, last time i called its a 2 weeks turn around. https://camaroforums.com/forum/attac...1&d=1453429675 |
I hope you have deep pockets lol, 1k horsepower takes a lot of cash to get there especially starting out with a basic shell.
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Originally Posted by Socom
(Post 708125)
I hope you have deep pockets lol, 1k horsepower takes a lot of cash to get there especially starting out with a basic shell.
The car is almost free, I've already sold a lot of parts I don't need. Another, $100 and that'll cover the cost of the car. 👍 |
Originally Posted by CaptainSavage
(Post 708127)
I hear ya! I definitely don't have deep pockets, but a little over time and I'll get there. Haha
The car is almost free, I've already sold a lot of parts I don't need. Another, $100 and that'll cover the cost of the car. 👍 |
I agree with Socom, With 1000 Dependable HP there are very few parts on your drive line that will come from GM. Even buying used aftermarket parts will be pricey and may require some machine shop work to get them fitted 100%. Sure you might get a LQ9 with loose rings to dyno once to twice near a 1000 HP but it will not hold up and you have spent 7K for a few trips to the dyno.
700 HP is a lot more realistic on a budget, without a really good tuner it is still in the high risk area but you could race a whole season or get a year or two out of it on street tire. Anytime you use mass produced GM parts there are risks of a defect that will fail at +20% factory power. Just an opinion: I love 4th gen, I currently have 3 but if I was building a race car I would avoid them. They are a pain to work on. An early 3rd gen or 80s full framed RWD car would SO much easier and cheaper to build. Normally with cars like this you have the motor in and out test fitting and changing stuff. Unless you have a lift that is a huge pain in the 4th gen cause the engine comes out the bottom. Also with an older car you do not have to mess with the body electrical, your 99 has a body control module and once you pull the PCM for the motor EVERYTHING in the car stops working. AC/Heat/Wiper/Power Windows/Power door locks... everything in the dash including all the gages. All the gages will need replace (that can be very pricey) and all the other stuff need rewired. If you finish this 4th gen I would bet you will look back and see you spent 3 to 4 times the money you paid for the 4th gen body to make the 4th gen work and that is not counting the labor hours and that would all be money and work you would have not needed to do on a 3rd gen. Read some of the large projects in this section. You really have to love a 4th gen to do this type of build, again IMO doing it because you found one cheap is a big mistake. |
Originally Posted by Gorn
(Post 708132)
I agree with Socom, With 1000 Dependable HP there are very few parts on your drive line that will come from GM. Even buying used aftermarket parts will be pricey and may require some machine shop work to get them fitted 100%. Sure you might get a LQ9 with loose rings to dyno once to twice near a 1000 HP but it will not hold up and you have spent 7K for a few trips to the dyno.
700 HP is a lot more realistic on a budget, without a really good tuner it is still in the high risk area but you could race a whole season or get a year or two out of it on street tire. Anytime you use mass produced GM parts there are risks of a defect that will fail at +20% factory power. Just an opinion: I love 4th gen, I currently have 3 but if I was building a race car I would avoid them. They are a pain to work on. An early 3rd gen or 80s full framed RWD car would SO much easier and cheaper to build. Normally with cars like this you have the motor in and out test fitting and changing stuff. Unless you have a lift that is a huge pain in the 4th gen cause the engine comes out the bottom. Also with an older car you do not have to mess with the body electrical, your 99 has a body control module and once you pull the PCM for the motor EVERYTHING in the car stops working. AC/Heat/Wiper/Power Windows/Power door locks... everything in the dash including all the gages. All the gages will need replace (that can be very pricey) and all the other stuff need rewired. If you finish this 4th gen I would bet you will look back and see you spent 3 to 4 times the money you paid for the 4th gen body to make the 4th gen work and that is not counting the labor hours and that would all be money and work you would have not needed to do on a 3rd gen. Read some of the large projects in this section. You really have to love a 4th gen to do this type of build, again IMO doing it because you found one cheap is a big mistake. I've already removed the ac/heater, radio, and gauge cluster. I'm installing crank windows and manual seats to eliminate the BCM. I didn't think about the wipers though, but I'm sure there's a way around that. |
500hp is better or 400,for a street car unless your raceing it ,who needs even 700hp for the street ,unless your a street outlaw ,an they spend big bucks get hp from there cars,an I agree with gorn ,go back to 92 or older ,looking at my build ,I would have rather had a 92 or older roller like 74 to 81 ,lots more room under the hood,looking back at my build wich I relize slowing it down is better I could have had fuel injected engine in there with the same hp ,an not had to mod so much to make it work ,live an learn though ,got it now, still a work in progress ,the lsx engines are a great engine for that car though sorry if I missed an someone mentioned it already
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Originally Posted by 95 camaro 406
(Post 708140)
500hp is better or 400,for a street car unless your raceing it ,who needs even 700hp for the street ,unless your a street outlaw ,an they spend big bucks get hp from there cars,an I agree with gorn ,go back to 92 or older ,looking at my build ,I would have rather had a 92 or older roller like 74 to 81 ,lots more room under the hood,looking back at my build wich I relize slowing it down is better I could have had fuel injected engine in there with the same hp ,an not had to mod so much to make it work ,live an learn though ,got it now, still a work in progress ,the lsx engines are a great engine for that car though sorry if I missed an someone mentioned it already
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You need at least a 5 point bar to go 10.0, any faster and you will need a cage.
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Any turbo LS motor is going to run well under 10's. A 1000 HP car in a gutted chassis should hit 8.5 seconds.
9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker: -Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required. See diagram below. -Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division). -NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. For NHRA license form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/licenseapp.pdf, for NHRA physical form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/physical01.pdf -Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years) -Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date) -Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off; see here for pictures and a wiring diagram: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-r...ct-switch.html -A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required. -A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track. Parachutes: If car is over 150 MPH |
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