Z28 Selection Help?
 

Hello,

My name is Rob and I have been a car guy for my whole life. I currently have a few older cars/4x4's and a diesel truck. None get over 20 MPG. I've had a few Mustangs, and currently have some mopars.

Currently, I need something to drive daily about 7-8 months a year. I do have a dirt driveway 2 miles long, and my shortest commute is 20 miles long one way. I am wanting something RWD with some performance and decent efficiency. I'd rather run a 14.5 and get 24 MPG than run a 13.7 and get 18MPG if you catch my drift. I'd like a manual transmission and it has to have a V8. It will be stored outside in winter maybe under a car cover. This is a driver car, not a collector thing for me.

Here are my questions:

1. Do all z28's have t-tops? Are they all leak prone? I would prefer a solid top.
2. MPG difference between A4 and M6 transmissions?
3. Leaning towards a 95 for a few reasons, but does it really matter?
4. How "creaky and squeaky" are these cars? My driveway is long and occasionally rough.
5. Miles on the car? How many are too many? What would you avoid?
6. What is the probability of finding a 1995 non T-top 6-speed V8 car?



My budget is: $4000 +/- a bit. Mods will likely consist of bolt-ons and not many other than the easy ones. Eventually I would like a 6-speed LS1, but not yet.

Thank you for your help.

ROB

My 96 lt1 gets roughly 18-20 mpg with a really light foot. Not going over 3k rpm. From what I've seen, 200k miles is the most these cars will take. Not all cars have ttops, I wanted them and have had no problems besides a tiny leak where the window meets the ttop, on the left side. Gorn should be able to answer all your questions. But, that's what I know, I'm new also.

These cars stock run a 13.9 - 14.5 stock.

Hey there and welcome, I am going to answer your questions best I can in order.
1. No not all Z28s have T-tops but most do. Not all tops are leak prone but this will depend on how the car was taken care of.
2. The biggest difference in mileage is how the driver drives. An LS1 can get high 20's with a gental foot.
3. A 95 is an OBD 1.5 confusing mess of computer. It is a unique computer and the car will be an LT1 engine with expensive and failure prone Optispark.
4. Depends on how hard of a life these cars have had. My Sarah is a V6 no squeeks or rattles, My Wife's car is a 2000 Z28, also taken care of, tho not as well as my car also does not squeek or rattle but it does not feel as tight as my car does.
5. 100+ is average for these cars and you will pay a lot more for low miles.
6. Pretty easy, but there are better options out there if you look for 98+ cars with the LS1. I think the LS1 is going to fit more of your desires than the LT1 car will.

OH and the LS1 will get mid 13's and still get the high 20's for mileage.

Hope this helps you on your quest.

Massey

If I was looking I would be looking for a 96 or 97. The OBD2 computers are better and easier to work on, Also there was an upgrade to the Opti in these years.

As you guessed the stick will do better with MPG then the stick. I have heard of people with a well maintained 6 speed hitting 27 MPG without any type special driving and doing 70 MPH.

Just incase you did not know. The 96 3.8 v6 5 speed Can get 30+ MPG and a 15 second 1/4 stock. 14.5 should be no problem with bolt ons. I bought my V6 for comuting and I am still loving it 2 years later.

OK. I will say that the v6 cars are certainly way cheaper. However, I really want a v8....
One of my cars that will be replaced is a big block car so I don't want to go too far the other way if you catch my drift.

I've spent most of my driving years crawling under something. I would rather get something to DD and lightly mod as I upgrade the car. If I was solely after speed, I would sell another Jeep and get the LS1.

I had thought that OBD 1 would be more tolerant of mods, but I don't really care which system I get. If it isn't a big deal, I have no issues going with it.

Most likely, I will get something and run it for a few years and then get into an LS1.

My 4k price is stretching my budget as it is unfortunately. I have seen an LS1 car under 6k every now and then.

Are there any transmission issues to be aware of with either the auto or stick?

If I came across a clean 93 auto that was black with T tops for cheap I could go that way, even though it is about the opposite of what I am looking after. I am a practical man, and I just want a decent car that hasn't been hammered on.

Thank you for the input and ideas.

ROB

Transmission wise these are pretty reliable vehicles both manual or automatic. The 93 is the black sheep of the family in the automatic department, it is the only year with a 4L60 (700R4) all other years had the 4L60E. If you cant find a V8 in your price range and decide to get a V6 you will not be dissappointed with the 3.8L engine that was available from 96-02. Good engine plenty of power, good economy, and it makes for a great cruising car.

Massey

There is quite a few in the 3-5k range. The lower mile 95's are bringing closer to 5K and the higher mile auto's are down to 3k.

Approximately what do you give up between the automatic and the manual in terms of performance and economy?

If they are both equally reliable and the performance / mileage is close enough I'd run an automatic.

I do see a lot of more auto's than sticks for sure. I would imagine that the sticks get used a lot more aggressively.

HHmmm.....

I would go for a 96-97 LT1, only because of the optispark design. 97 is the best in my opinion.

You are not going to be getting all that great of mileage from an LT1. Most owners get low to mid 20's if driven realy nice. Auto or manual is about the same, maybe a few more on the freeway with a manual car since you have the second overdrive. I agree with getting the 96-97 since they are true OBDII and not the OBDhybrid that GM thought was a great idea. Pulling codes and programing the 95 computer is a pain in the tail. 96-97 have a better Opti and the computer can easily be read and programed.

Massey