you can test to make sure its in the sending unit/gas tank and not external wiring. 4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles i also wonder if the shop did a hatch job. https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...-method-63702/

 

I am still in limbo as far as payment to this shop because of the non working fuel gauge. I would like to settle up with them however. The fuel gauge when the key is in the off position registers to the right of the "full" location. I did notice that when I turned the key to the on position that the gauge moved even further to the right until I think the gauge reached its full possible swing to the right. My question is would this signify that the sending unit is actually working and just needs to be calibrated? If so...what is involved in this calibration?

 

Easiest check would be with an ohmmeter on disconnected tan wire to sending unit and measure resistance to ground.
Could be infinity reading as gauge goes to max and beyond.
Chev has always been 0 ohms empty; 90 ohms is full.
Check work order with shop as they might have, or should have, written pre-existing results before dropping of tank.
If they did, and gauge is written it works, and not now, then might be a freebie for you. Figure the odds though.

 

my 93 gage goes max past full mark when full. starts moving about 100 miles into it. runs out as it touches e.

 

Do you know the maker of the fuel pump? Some pumps come as an assembly that would include a new sending unit. You could have gotten a detective one and the mechanic does not want to do the job over for free.

If the fuel gage worked before the pump replacement there is no reason it should not work after. There are a lot of ways to mess up the sending unit during install both electrical and mechanical.

 

dont sound right ,like you got a place that probley did no write up,my gage has allways worked but runs out at 1/4th a tank ,an when key is off it stays at what evr amount i have like 3/4ths ,sure hope you work it out though