fixed hose but still hot!!!
#1
07-18-2006, 10:00 PM
fixed hose but still hot!!!
well i took off the intake and found the hose i went down to kragens got a replacement and put it on! there is no more dripping but when i took it for a test run it got hot again!
I didnt fluch out the water that i put in cause i dont think there was any left it probably would have drained so i poured the coolant in the little plasic thing that say" engine coolant only" and started it up. am i supposed to wait untill the coolant pumps through or shpould i have drained the radiator ? i dont know where the drainer is either?! dont know why it is still geting hot! the oil gauge goes up as i rev the engine also!
somone please help?
I didnt fluch out the water that i put in cause i dont think there was any left it probably would have drained so i poured the coolant in the little plasic thing that say" engine coolant only" and started it up. am i supposed to wait untill the coolant pumps through or shpould i have drained the radiator ? i dont know where the drainer is either?! dont know why it is still geting hot! the oil gauge goes up as i rev the engine also!
somone please help?
#2
07-21-2006, 10:28 PM
RE: fixed hose but still hot!!!
You need to fill the radiator completely by removing the radiator cap, and then top off the expansion tank, do not overfill, use the dipstick. After that you have to open up both bleed valves and let the air out of the cooling system. Run the engine till it get hot and liquid coolant comes out the bleed valves, and the close them. Top off the expansion tank & you shuld be OK.
If you insist on doing your own work, you really need to get a service manual.
If you insist on doing your own work, you really need to get a service manual.
#3
08-31-2006, 12:22 AM
RE: fixed hose but still hot!!!
if you dont want to mess with the bleeder screws or arent sure where they are you can just run the engine till it warms up then let it cool and add coolant again wich will bring it up to the proper level per the owners manua
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#4
02-17-2012, 09:53 PM
am i doing right? i am about to replace the expansion tank and i found this steps on how to replace an expansion tank.
I do not suggest a tank without an air valve. Get the new tank. It should be pre-pressurized to 12#. Use a bicycle pump or small compressor to increase the pressure to 15#. Check the pressure with a low pressure tire gauge. Apply teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads. Have the tank sitting as close as is practical to where it will go. The idea here is to do a quick swap. Turn off the power to the boiler & all the boiler related valves you can find. Use a hose (washing machine hose works well) from the bottom drain valve into a bucket & drop the boiler pressure to zero by draining water via the drain valve. When the pressure is at zero, close the drain & unscrew the old tank (CAUTION: When it comes loose it will be heavy) & screw the new one in it's place. Open the water feed valve slowly & pressurize the boiler to about 15#. After the boiler is at pressure, open the valves you closed (except the drain, obviously), restore power & set the thermostat for the second floor to call for heat. With luck, you won't have to purge air from the system.
I do not suggest a tank without an air valve. Get the new tank. It should be pre-pressurized to 12#. Use a bicycle pump or small compressor to increase the pressure to 15#. Check the pressure with a low pressure tire gauge. Apply teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads. Have the tank sitting as close as is practical to where it will go. The idea here is to do a quick swap. Turn off the power to the boiler & all the boiler related valves you can find. Use a hose (washing machine hose works well) from the bottom drain valve into a bucket & drop the boiler pressure to zero by draining water via the drain valve. When the pressure is at zero, close the drain & unscrew the old tank (CAUTION: When it comes loose it will be heavy) & screw the new one in it's place. Open the water feed valve slowly & pressurize the boiler to about 15#. After the boiler is at pressure, open the valves you closed (except the drain, obviously), restore power & set the thermostat for the second floor to call for heat. With luck, you won't have to purge air from the system.
whoa buddy you need to start your own thread this one is like 6 years old... noobs
#5
02-17-2012, 11:04 PM
am i doing right? i am about to replace the expansion tank and i found this steps on how to replace an expansion tank.
I do not suggest a tank without an air valve. Get the new tank. It should be pre-pressurized to 12#. Use a bicycle pump or small compressor to increase the pressure to 15#. Check the pressure with a low pressure tire gauge. Apply teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads. Have the tank sitting as close as is practical to where it will go. The idea here is to do a quick swap. Turn off the power to the boiler & all the boiler related valves you can find. Use a hose (washing machine hose works well) from the bottom drain valve into a bucket & drop the boiler pressure to zero by draining water via the drain valve. When the pressure is at zero, close the drain & unscrew the old tank (CAUTION: When it comes loose it will be heavy) & screw the new one in it's place. Open the water feed valve slowly & pressurize the boiler to about 15#. After the boiler is at pressure, open the valves you closed (except the drain, obviously), restore power & set the thermostat for the second floor to call for heat. With luck, you won't have to purge air from the system.
I do not suggest a tank without an air valve. Get the new tank. It should be pre-pressurized to 12#. Use a bicycle pump or small compressor to increase the pressure to 15#. Check the pressure with a low pressure tire gauge. Apply teflon tape or pipe dope to the threads. Have the tank sitting as close as is practical to where it will go. The idea here is to do a quick swap. Turn off the power to the boiler & all the boiler related valves you can find. Use a hose (washing machine hose works well) from the bottom drain valve into a bucket & drop the boiler pressure to zero by draining water via the drain valve. When the pressure is at zero, close the drain & unscrew the old tank (CAUTION: When it comes loose it will be heavy) & screw the new one in it's place. Open the water feed valve slowly & pressurize the boiler to about 15#. After the boiler is at pressure, open the valves you closed (except the drain, obviously), restore power & set the thermostat for the second floor to call for heat. With luck, you won't have to purge air from the system.
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