I have a 96 camaro and i have a prob with my driver side window. Idk if it's the motor or the regulator or both but heres the problem. It will go up and down but not in one movement it stops periodically and you have to wait then try it again and it will go a lil further. Very annoying in the rain when trying to clear the water off ur window but also when i shut my door when the window is anywhere but up and i shut the door the whole door panel shakes like no other. Idk if anyone else has this prob or knows how hard it is to replace the window regulator with motor but if you could share your knowledge it would be appreciated.

 

It's the motor. They're notoriously bad. Replaced both of mine on my 23,000 mile '96 Z. I used AC Delco motors and they work fine.

 

if its the motor does that explain how my my whole inside door panel shakes when i shut the door with the window down? ur right it is the motor but i think the regulator might be off the track or need a new one possibly. anyone know if those regulators are known to go bad or not?

 

Ok dude you do need window motors, the circuit breakers are timing out because of the load. The door panel issue is caused by the sealing strips
on the outside top of the doors, $46 from a gm dealer, these have been upgraded so the problem wont happen again. The old style had felt pads riveted to the seal strip and these rust and fall off, they will be in the bottom of the door. Easy to replace, 30 min for me, use a rubber malet and a largw towel to seat the new strips. any questions, mixd@***.net

 

no, it has nothing do to with weatherstripping, my car does the same thing, what happens is the guides that hold the window steady are loose when the window is down, because of the natural curvature of the window, the guides have space and the window shakes in between them, what you need to do is simply roll the window up like 2 inches instead of having them all the way down and that cures the problem. its the window rattling in your door, not the panel .

 

i no its not the weatherstripping but there is sealing strips both inside and outside of the window made out of a felt like material inside the door about 1in under the weatherstripping and basically keeps thewindow on track and firm in one place instead of it being ableto move,the sealing is in segments from what i can see when pulling back the weatherstripping and basically one of the pieces fell off and the metal bracket that held the piece into place scratches my tint everytime i open or shut the door with the window down so that is what i mean when my whole door panel shakes cause it has about a good 1in of movement when shut the door idk it could also be caused by other things but thanks for the help guys

 

Do this...
1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic) .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.

This will help with slow motors and intermitent motors...good luck.

 

The little felt things on the brackets are know as the window stabilizers...there are two per door...part #10257988 go to a GM store and buy a new one...$20.20 Cdn

 

ok but isn't there a total of 4 stabilizers 2 on each side of the window? and how many do you get for $20? cause i need em for the dr. and pass. sides

 

No, there isn't 4 per door. There are only two that stabilize the inner part of the glass. And $20 Cdn only gets you one.