What Kind Of Brakes Should I Get?
What Kind Of Brakes Should I Get?
My brakes are definitely not the best. They stop fine, but they squeak quite a bit when I slowly stop. If I slam on the brakes, they don't squeak at all. But I can just tell that they're not up to par. A friend of mine who has a Mustang (
) did Hawk pads & rotors I believe, Stoptech lines, and Brembo rotors - and it's a pretty decent setup, but I obviously don't have $1700 to spend on a brake setup. Just to give a better idea, I have an '00 V6, but I'm wanting to put a 5.3 in it and do cams, exhaust, and headers to get more power. So, what kind of brake setup do you think I should go with?
) did Hawk pads & rotors I believe, Stoptech lines, and Brembo rotors - and it's a pretty decent setup, but I obviously don't have $1700 to spend on a brake setup. Just to give a better idea, I have an '00 V6, but I'm wanting to put a 5.3 in it and do cams, exhaust, and headers to get more power. So, what kind of brake setup do you think I should go with?
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,310
^That.
Or if you are trying to stay cheaper, slotted rotors and Hawk pads from Ws6store are pretty inexpensive, the rotors are only around $170. Also, your suspension has a lot to do with braking performance, might be worth it to look into better shocks such as Bilstein.
Or if you are trying to stay cheaper, slotted rotors and Hawk pads from Ws6store are pretty inexpensive, the rotors are only around $170. Also, your suspension has a lot to do with braking performance, might be worth it to look into better shocks such as Bilstein.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,354
From: Spanaway, WA
Keeping everything stock I would replace the rotors, calipers and get top grade ceramic pads such as the Wagner ThermoQuiet or Raybestos Super Stops. I shortened my stopping distance by 20 feet using all stock equipment, just by switching to ceramic. Vented rotors will also help as they disparate heat better.
The mods above are also good.
Massey
The mods above are also good.
Massey
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 196
I'm replacing both my brakes and rotors. I'm getting ebay's Brake Motive rotor and Raybesos pads. It's costing me $210 for parts for front and rear. I don't know what the labor will cost but it's not going to be $1700. Your friend got took to the cleaners!
I have a '98 V6 so I know where you are coming from. Don't do the 5.3, there is plenty of power in the 3.8 and you can pass gas pumps also. I have aftermarket headers and a aftercat exhaust. I got a lot of power just from this.
Remove you air buffer "air dam" and think functional air scoop. I get 37 MPG on the highway and a V8 can't come lose to that.
I have a '98 V6 so I know where you are coming from. Don't do the 5.3, there is plenty of power in the 3.8 and you can pass gas pumps also. I have aftermarket headers and a aftercat exhaust. I got a lot of power just from this.
Remove you air buffer "air dam" and think functional air scoop. I get 37 MPG on the highway and a V8 can't come lose to that.
Senior Moderator
January 2010 ROTM Winner
January 2010 ROTM Winner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,306
From: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Try not to buy into all the "drilled & slotted rotors are better" hype. There are some things to consider.
Drilled and slotted rotors have less friction area than standard rotors do. Add up the area that all those holes and slots take away, and that's how much less surface area the pads will have to grab onto. That's beneficial how?
Drilled rotors can be a benefit to dissipate heat if you're track racing, where you're pouring fast and hard into the turns and then hitting the brakes. You're not driving like that on the street.
Rotors that are "drilled" are more prone to cracking than the "good" kind that are actually cast with the holes in them. Drilling the holes after the fact can create weak spots in the metal.
Under the same driving conditions above, slotted rotors can help dissipate the gases, help shed away pad dust, and assist in scrubbing the pads. That scrubbing action however, shortens your pad life, so keep that in mind.
For a street car, you're paying a lot just for the "ooh factor". And if you're buying the rotors on the cheap, they are cheap.
You may hear "but I noticed a huge improvement in stopping, since I installed my nifty drilled & slotted rotors". Yep, you sure did. And compared to the old worn and glazed brakes you used to have, you would have noticed an improvement even with the el cheapo Chinese made Autozone rotors and pads.
But it is your money afterall, throw it away however you want.
Drilled and slotted rotors have less friction area than standard rotors do. Add up the area that all those holes and slots take away, and that's how much less surface area the pads will have to grab onto. That's beneficial how?
Drilled rotors can be a benefit to dissipate heat if you're track racing, where you're pouring fast and hard into the turns and then hitting the brakes. You're not driving like that on the street.
Rotors that are "drilled" are more prone to cracking than the "good" kind that are actually cast with the holes in them. Drilling the holes after the fact can create weak spots in the metal.
Under the same driving conditions above, slotted rotors can help dissipate the gases, help shed away pad dust, and assist in scrubbing the pads. That scrubbing action however, shortens your pad life, so keep that in mind.
For a street car, you're paying a lot just for the "ooh factor". And if you're buying the rotors on the cheap, they are cheap.
You may hear "but I noticed a huge improvement in stopping, since I installed my nifty drilled & slotted rotors". Yep, you sure did. And compared to the old worn and glazed brakes you used to have, you would have noticed an improvement even with the el cheapo Chinese made Autozone rotors and pads.
But it is your money afterall, throw it away however you want.
April 2011 ROTM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,001
From: Tokeland, Washington
ROTM Winner's Club
yep i got a set of cheep china rotors here that didnt last long before they warped. powerstop seem to hold up fine and like the hawk ceramic pads. i would think a switch to ls brakes would be a step up.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,310
I'm replacing both my brakes and rotors. I'm getting ebay's Brake Motive rotor and Raybesos pads. It's costing me $210 for parts for front and rear. I don't know what the labor will cost but it's not going to be $1700. Your friend got took to the cleaners!
I have a '98 V6 so I know where you are coming from. Don't do the 5.3, there is plenty of power in the 3.8 and you can pass gas pumps also. I have aftermarket headers and a aftercat exhaust. I got a lot of power just from this.
Remove you air buffer "air dam" and think functional air scoop. I get 37 MPG on the highway and a V8 can't come lose to that.
I have a '98 V6 so I know where you are coming from. Don't do the 5.3, there is plenty of power in the 3.8 and you can pass gas pumps also. I have aftermarket headers and a aftercat exhaust. I got a lot of power just from this.
Remove you air buffer "air dam" and think functional air scoop. I get 37 MPG on the highway and a V8 can't come lose to that.
Plenty of power for an everyday commuter car sure, but if the guy wants to try to swap then go for it. Read his other thread to understand better.
While a v8 can't come close to "37" mpg, it can get 28 with 350+ hp....
Your local auto parts store OE style pads and rotors will do fine for DD and the occasional emergency stop. I have pretty much zilch on my rear brakes, leaving my fronts to do more of the stopping than they already have to do and I still have no problems stopping, even in the rain and I only have WearEver rotors and the silver line of pads on the front.
If you are looking for the extra stopping power, the C5 upgrade is much more worth it in my opinion, than getting D/S rotors.