no/low fuel pressure or low fuel volume will not throw a code.

 

well i checked the fuel pressure then i drove it until it died out. it stopped right at 1.5 miles again. i then checked the fuel pressure again and it is still about the same right around 40 to 50. so i dont think its the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator.

 

you need to see the fuel pressure when it dies. did it start right back up. if something is plugging up it will lose pressure untill it dies than fall off. maybe tape that gauge to the windshield and try it. i had a ignition coil/control module go out and thats what it did. i would get about a mile and a half down the road and it would quit. i would go get someone to help tow it home and it would start right up.

 

yeah i checked it right when it died. i towed it back home then did a spark test and i wasnt getting any spark so i took back the ignition control module and put another in it. i tried starting it and it got spark. when my dad gets ff work we are going to finish bolting it down and take it for a drive to see if that fixed it. i bought the car thinking it needed a motor and it was the control module wrong with it the first time. i bought it 6/18/12 so it lasted a bit over a year. at least it had a lifetime warranty.

 

well i drove it around today. since yesturday was raining and i was busy sunday. started acting up around 1.5 miles again then died. it also back fired this time which it hasnt before. we did another spark test right when we towed it home. it gets spark every once in awhile. i also noticed when it gets spark that the speedo and rpm gauge go all the way up then back down. Could it be a computer issue?

 

also after doing some searches on google. could it be a crankshaft or camshaft postion sensor. i dont have a check or service engine light on but i dont know if any codes are coming up.

 

thinking something is getting to the point where when it heats up it fails or this is doing it when you go into closed loop which would point to a sensor. do you have a aftermarket alarm/theft system? do you have the vats bypassed? any dash lights on? start looking at the wiring and see if any is damaged. check the plugs to any sensors you can get to.

 

the mechanic i know is saying he thinks its the crank sensor. i had a service engine soon light on but it went away.there is no alarm system on there. i am not sure what the vats is so i couldnt tell you bout that.

 

crank sensor is for diagnosing, cam sensor is used to control spark.

 

The problem does sounds like a crank position sensor could be a possible solution. Have you left the car to idle to temperature to see if you can duplicate the problem when it gets to the same temperature? I have seen this very problem in the past and the culprit was in fact the crank position sensor. Not saying that is your problem but it is a place to start.

You mentioned you picked up an OBD2 scan tool - have you hooked it up and do you have any pending codes? Just because the dash light is not on does not mean that there are not codes. What model scan tool did you purchase (does it show live data?) Do you have a friend that has access to one?

Fuel pressure at the rail does not necessarily mean fuel in the engine. If the PCM is not pulsing the injectors than you have no fuel in the motor but you still have pressure in the rail. Based on your description the PCM can be a possibility but most likely not the source of your problems in my opinion. The crank position sensor reports to the PCM the current engine speed (RPM) and position of the crank than based on the values the PCM adjusts ignition timing (spark) and fuel injection timing. So if you have garbage in or no signal in then it will be garbage out.


VATS is a theft deterrent module that also will shut down your inject pulses. There is a little black spot on your ignition key which is a resistor. That is how the car knows it is the proper key and not being stolen. As I know it; VATS will stop cranking and injector pulse but will not cause spark issues so this may not be the culprit.