upper control arm bushing proceedure
#1
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k, so far I've removed pretty much everything from the front suspension. I'm down to upper control arms. I have removed the passenger side no problem. took the whole steering knuckle / upper control arm / shock, along with lower control, tie rod ends, removed bushings and ball joints. I've done pretty much the same thing on the driver side, except I'm kinda stuck because of clearance with the brake cylinder.
Any tricks to this? GM service manual says to remove the master cylinder and set it aside..
What have you guys done?
Thanks
Any tricks to this? GM service manual says to remove the master cylinder and set it aside..
What have you guys done?
Thanks
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,408
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I did a neat trick, I removed the master cylinder and set it aside. The process takes about a minute. It is just two nuts, the lines will keep in place.
#6
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I removed the MC mounting nuts as well. I think they're 15mm.
My 94 has some big torx screws holding the upper control arm plate to the tower. Be sure that you use the right size bit for those and that the bit is fully seated in the hole. If you strip out one of those torx screws you will be a *very* unhappy camper.
And depending where you live, be prepared for some ugliness when you drop that upper control arm assembly. On my car both of the top plates were so rusty that i didn't want to reuse them. I got nicer ones from the junkyard.
Also, water pools on top of the shock/strut and one of mine had the retaining nut mostly rusted away. Once i got the strut out I felt like I was holding a hand grenade with the pin pulled. Again, I used the struts from a junkyard car and they were in much better condition.
My 94 has some big torx screws holding the upper control arm plate to the tower. Be sure that you use the right size bit for those and that the bit is fully seated in the hole. If you strip out one of those torx screws you will be a *very* unhappy camper.
And depending where you live, be prepared for some ugliness when you drop that upper control arm assembly. On my car both of the top plates were so rusty that i didn't want to reuse them. I got nicer ones from the junkyard.
Also, water pools on top of the shock/strut and one of mine had the retaining nut mostly rusted away. Once i got the strut out I felt like I was holding a hand grenade with the pin pulled. Again, I used the struts from a junkyard car and they were in much better condition.
#7
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K, got it out no problem. you actually have to undo 4 bolts. 2 for the master cylinder and 2 for the ABS modulator valve where the brake lines go to. Actually I think you just have to loosen the two at the valve and lift it up and over the slots to give more room for the brake lines to move.
Once you get to the shock tower nuts / bolts - the two nuts are 15mm (that's what she said?" and the torque bolts are T-50's
Once you get to the shock tower nuts / bolts - the two nuts are 15mm (that's what she said?" and the torque bolts are T-50's
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chevcamaro
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12-05-2011 12:06 PM