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Life gets in the way at times, but I'm still working on it.
Attachment 12563 Attachment 12564 Attachment 12565 Attachment 12566 |
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UPS delivers happiness in a box.
Attachment 12558 3120, stock brakes, no driver, 1/8th tank of gas. Attachment 12559 Found this guy wondering around the shop. I taught him the way home. Attachment 12560 Center of lower radiator support cut out Attachment 12561 Airbag computer with bracket: Attachment 12562 |
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Compressor with one hard line still attached:
Attachment 12549 Ebrake handle Attachment 12550 Ebrake cables Attachment 12551 Passenger airbag Attachment 12552 AC side cooling fan Attachment 12553 2 door speakers Attachment 12554 I originally got this kit, with Strange aluminum hubs. After looking I was sure it would not fit behind a stock wheel due to the design and the large dust cap. After searching around I found most drag wheels allow for the dust cap to come through the center. Since switching wheels was not an option I contact Midwest Chassis and they revised the kit to work with a stock hub and therefore stock wheels. The kit for drag wheels: Attachment 12555 Here's the modified kit and brackets: Attachment 12556 So once I had all the correct parts, I fit it all to the car. You will need either brake line adapters, or a brake line kit. I got the kit from Midwest and it work well. The old hard lines are a pain to break free from the stock adapters so go easy on them. You can see the new line and adapter in place in this picture. Attachment 12557 |
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Here they are behind the wheel:
Attachment 12543 And the weight. I assembled all the strange stuff on the scale and got 25lbs total. I assembled one side of the stock stuff and got about 31lbs. So 62 vs 25. So a 37 pound weight drop: Attachment 12544 For driving impressions, the first few stops felt about like stock. After say a half dozen stops the pedal got more reactive and sensitive and the brakes had a very nice initial bite. Very confidence inspiring. I did not do any hard panic type stops but for normal driving you wouldnt know they were there other then the fact that the car seems to stop very well. Attachment 12545 So we know what the new stuff looks like: Attachment 12545 Yanked the old stuff off and promptly put it for sale: Its a BMR setup, which has worked good for me. Attachment 12547 2 concerns, weight by needing to add the stock transmission crossmember back and ride quality. So lets look at the weight....The BMR torque arm was 25lbs. Then their crossmember was 10 pounds. Making the old setup 35 lbs. Attachment 12548 |
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Here's the stock trans crossmember: Its fully boxed and heavy. It should be as the torque arm is mounted to the trans when stock:
Attachment 12535 The stock trans crossmember: Attachment 12536 We are gonna un-box it by cutting the stock welds. Attachment 12537 Now this little piece removed might not weigh much: Attachment 12538 I mighta hole sawed it too...... Attachment 12539 TA crossmember cleared my Flowmaster 3 into 4 merge very comfortably. Attachment 12540 The Midwest torque arm: about 17lbs. Attachment 12541 And this is their crossmember with DS loop: Attachment 12542 The conclusion, the BMR setup was 35. The Midwest is 17, I was able to get the TA crossmember down to 5 by eliminating the DS loop, so we are at 22. I was able to get the stock transmission crossmember down to 4 so that's 26. We lost 9 pounds. Driving impressions: Nice. Quiet, not harsh, I'm really impressed. Traction is about the same on the street. Pinion angle is -2.5. |
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Special delivery:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...pshvc1e92f.jpg Here's the stock stuff: Attachment 12526 Attachment 12527 Teardown: Attachment 12528 Stock weighs 28 per side: Attachment 12529 The carnage, new bearings and wedding rings needed: Attachment 12530 Going together: Attachment 12531 Done! Attachment 12532 Attachment 12533 12 per side for Strange. Attachment 12534 So stock was 28+28=56, Strange was 24, so 56-24=32lbs in savings. |
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So I finally decided to collect the fruits of my labor. Track time, TNT, we been planning it for over a month. Well the weather turned out really nice and DA was in the 750-1000 range. So, everyone and their momma came out.
Attachment 12516 Long story short I made three passes. I adjusted the coilovers in between each pass looking for traction. The second two passes I wheel hopped bad. Due to the crowd I decided that was enough for me for one night. I did noticed with the new brakes I can brake stall really high now. With the stock brakes it would push through pretty quick. I notice a bad vibration on the way home, and Im thinking its driveshaft related, broken ujoint or something. I made it halfway home and had to call the old lady to come bring the car hauler. Attachment 12517 This, doesn't look right. Attachment 12518 Decided to not chance it and just make the repair on the trailer: Attachment 12519 Wheel holes are wallered out, brake rotor holes are too, and the centering register on the axle is ****ed. So I will be replacing all of them. Caliper took a little rubbing from the rotor but looks mostly cosmetic. Attachment 12520 Strange was so kind to drill both 12mm and 1/2" stud holes. I will be going back with 1/2" this go round to see if I can stop this **** from happening again. Attachment 12521 Here's the passenger side wheel studs.....whoops. Attachment 12522 So I waited about a week for new 1/2 studs and a brake rotor from Strange. I didn't get in a hurry to get it fixed due to I'm still waiting on a wheel. I went ahead and patched it together yesterday and put the stock wheels back on the rear to get it off the trailer. This is the damage to the caliper where the rotor rubbed the inside of it. Looks like i stopped in time and didnt do major damage to the caliper. Attachment 12523 Here's the new 1/2 studs after installation. Attachment 12524 Here's the complete assembly with the new center register and rotor. You can see from this picture the rotor is stud-centric meaning it depends on the studs to center itself. Common sense tells you if it fits with 1/2 studs and 12mm are smaller, then there was some slack with the 12mm. Enough to cause an issue? Well I cant say for sure but I do believe these were designed to work best with 1/2 because the fit is much tighter. Strange should mention this detail in their product literature I think. Attachment 12525 I'm making a lug nut swap also. I'm including this picture for those who may not be familiar. Stock wheels use a hex nut conical seat on the top left. Drag wheels use something like the mag type hex nut with a washer. That type goes through the wheel to grip the stud all the way at the base making it stronger. Even with stock wheels you can use the hex nut ET (extended thread) and it gives a similar effect of the mag type where it actually passes through the wheel and engages more thread and in to a further point. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...psjrytdgfs.gif |
Damn!!!!! How fast are you hope by for? Btw do you have the same handle on LS1tech?
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Would like to go 11.0s but we will see. I have the same screen name everywhere.
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 706226)
Would like to go 11.0s but we will see. I have the same screen name everywhere.
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