looks great she will scream.i have thought about an exhaust like it ,but not raceing anymore ,an dont think its legal hear for the street ,though i am adding cherry bombs that will be straight through the ones i have now have one blown single chamber nothing like wide open now matter how long or short fire ,imagination working over time there ,hope you live in a southern state ,as its near time to put mine away but ,i have had it out till turkey day or later,??shoot out a video when you get it running in place want to hear it scream LOL ??? VERY NICE

Its 90+ degrees here, no wintertime to speak of.

Well I figured I was tuning this week but it just didnt work out that way. While working on the idle tuning i noticed the oil psi showed zero. I honestly didnt think much of it because the motor was very quiet and I knew i used a chinese sending unit. When the turbo started blipping oil out of the exhaust i figured i better investigate. Yep, mechanical gauge showed 5 psi. Hoping for a pinched pickup o ring i drained the oil and filter. When pouring the filter out I noticed specs of trash coming out of it. So I cut it open to investigate further. Whoops.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...s0ilbks47.jpeg

New oil, new filter and Ive got 70 psi again. I decided to check reverse and see if she could back into the yard and sunbathe for the day.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...siqfbg3fz.jpeg

I need to put the hood back on but it bothers me my stickers are now inaccurate. So I decided to go ahead and clean the underside of the hood and dig in my sticker stash to keep things updated. Also, the black above the Cam Motion sticker was where i had some foam tape to keep the clear lid from rubbing the hood. Glad that can finally go away.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...snrfstngb.jpeg

Here's the new sticker arrangement. Pic is a little washed out but you can see Aeromotive, circle D, autometer, transgo, turbosmart, msd, hptunders, and sje were all added.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...s1v95xwvf.jpeg

Hood and headlights are back on, and i also glued the tab for the rearview mirror to the lexan front windshield. We will see if it holds, and I hope it does because you cant see **** out of the tiny side mirrors. The brake pedal is ROCK hard. I'm going to give it a fair chance however if it proves to be miserable stopping the car I will admit defeat and go back to the booster. And we do know at minimum reverse and first work in the trans because it pulled itself back in no problem. You can also see the shock tower bar I added, not for looks but because the front lexan is lifting slightly and I believe its from cowl twist. This should help, I also added more screws to the lower edge. Next, we terrorize the neighborhood.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sv6addsj0.jpeg

got mine going again time to cruise the street rod,i i am puting mine up for sale mine an getting an ls1 ss, keeping it stock then adding upgraded heads cam after a few years exhaust so on,just want to see what i can get from the right guy new cherokeehttp://i66.tinypic.com/2s9rtxg.jpg

So the LAST non-running update.....as I've indicated, I've been having some tuning issues with the car. Quite frankly, it wont hardly run, wont hardly idle, barely starts sometimes, and wont rev clean in park. I have been trying everything I can to figure it out, and nothing I change makes a difference. Saturday I finally decided to swap the MAP sensor out with a stock truck unit. My reasoning was, even though I was seeing 105kpa with the engine off, I was only getting 65-80kpa during revs which didnt seem right (remember I dont tune for a living). Well the truck MAP spanned almost the entire 0-105kpa scale and allowed me to make corrections that it actually responded to. With a single VE correction i had it revving to redline smoothly, SUCCESS!! My buddy Randy who gave me the intake had another 3bar MAP for me to try, and guess what, it worked. So I got a janky sensor out of the box. I'm going to use his sensor in the meantime to get the tuning done this week. Since the old lady is off, i plan on letting her be the passenger seat laptop holder <<<<--insert evil grin.


Wanting to put a master list together for anyone duplicating any part of this.

Turbo kit: Huron Speed

F-body V1 Truck Manifold Single Turbo Kit 98-02

Wastegate: TurboSmart 45mm TS-0506-1002

WG45 Hypergate 45 7psi Black

Boost Controller: TurboSmart TS-0106-1002

In Cabin Boost Controller Black

Fuel Pumps: Chrs1313 dual 450s

Speed Inc - Chrs1313 Dual 450 Fuel Pump Setup Fbody 99-02 drop in-tank

Belt: 71.5" 6 rib off ebay (715k6)

Oil Pressure Sending unit: PS303

Oil Filter: Wix 51042

Coolant Overflow: Dorman 603-001

Vacuum lines: Sickspeed brand, 10m of 6mm, 5 foot of 10mm from ebay

Fuel Pressure Gauge: Marshall MNB00100 from ebay

Fuel Lines and fittings: All from ttfitting on ebay

Vacuum caps: Dorman 41050

IAC Valve: AC234

Throttle Body: WARR W92LS-VP

e85 tester: Fuel-It

Exhaust tip: 3 to 3.5", seller xtips4u on ebay

PCV: 8ft of -10 AN from ttfitting

12 bolt cover gasket: 5104R

Wideband extension Harness: Autometer 5252

Collector Copper Gasket: ACE Gasket 4210

Hose clamps: Russell 650990

Exhaust wrap: 2" wide from seller wzho3115 on ebay

Exhaust Flange stud Kit: Dorman 03133

Heater hose bypass: from seller mtmills on ebay

4l80e tailshaft seal: Feiock Performance FP 400RS2700

Fuel Filter: From seller le_ji84 on ebay (China delivery)

Fuel Y Split: Z122N from seller fassterllc

Boost Gauge: Autometer 2614

Pushrods: Summit/Jegs brand 7.400

Vacuum Block: SickSpeed 2016

Fuel Pressure Regulator: Aeromotive 13303

Low Oil Sensor blockoff: ICT Billet

Flexplate: ATP z-270

4l80e AN Fittings: from sweet_performance on ebay

1/8 NPT Weldable Steel Bung: ATM 2260

4l80e Service Kit: Oregon Performance Transmission

4l80e Forged Yoke: PST brand bought from Midwest Chassis

-10 AN Fitting for valvecover: WARR brand

Pinion Seal: Ratech 6109

Turbo Oil feed fitting: PRE-60416BLK

Plug Wires: MSD 32829

Plugs: NGK 3346 gapped at 22

Knock Sensor: AC Delco 213-3521

Coolant Sensor: AC Delco 213-4514

CatchCan: from seller ael-supply on ebay

Fuel Rails: Z967 from seller fassterllc on ebay

Lifters and trays: from seller panthersales on ebay

Oil Pump: Melling 10295

Head Gasket: GM 12622033

Head Studs: Speedmaster

Valve Springs: Alper-Motorsports PEP PSK658-8-7

Injectors: Bosch 127

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3976-f...injectors.aspx

Exhaust bumper Trim: MotionRaceWorksLLC

Converter: Circle D Triple disc

Circle D Specialties. GM 258mm Pro Series 4L80E Torque Converter

4l80e conversion harness: Nelson Performance

Nelson Performance | 80e Conversion Harness

Map Sensor: EFI Source

LS1 style 3 bar MAP sensor - EFI Source

See anything I missed let me know.

Well this is a depressing update with a happy ending. Go back to the oil pressure issues. I figured out the black junk was from the rocker arms, it was flaking off, so that was accounted for being in the filter. The car was running good and AFR wasnt bad so we went on a drive, after a couple of quick reflashes she went into boost for the first time. Holy Muther of God. The pull at 7 psi on the wastegate spring is retarded. I am officially in love with boost. After experiencing this glory one friggen time, the oil pressure tanked again. Luckily we were close to home and I limped it there, and swapped filters again. All back to normal. So I go on about tuning some more and even gave a couple test rides to friends (no traction from a roll), and on my final drive of yesterday it happened.......we buzzed the neighbors standing outside with the turbo whirl and the BOV pop, made a pull and it was there.......a rod knock. After examining all top end components i crawled under and pulled the filter and it was clogged with metal debris. I believe the previous two had been also I just saw it to be dark and assumed it was sludge. So we are gonna make the best of it, and go back with an aluminum block this go round to shave some weight. I know this motor didnt run long but damn was it glorious when it did.

To note, the brakes are growing on me some, the converter from circle D feels perfect, I can build boost quickly, I was even able to footbrake to 3k on a dusty blacktop road so that has a lot of potential and my trans cooling is not adequate. Ive got a sister cooler and fan on the way and will be doubling cooling capacity while maintaining the rearmount cooler setup. Also, the BOV with the lightweight spring was staying open at idle, and with the heavy spring would not open at all. This is what i did to the heavy spring to make it work correctly.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...slbpvl1dm.jpeg

Side info, I was pretty disgusted with the situation so I made the best of it and put some new cabinets and microwave in the Camaro's corner of the garage. I may run a dedicated outlet for the microwave but for now just ran a cord to it. This is a hangout spot for us LS guys to hatch our devious racecar plans where the womenfolk cant find about it! Pretty nice cabinets for being store bought home depot thingys.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...s5vdygtvl.jpeg

New motor to come grrrrrrr.

Motor pullin party. Got damn it.

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TDC for #3. For those who may not know, the piston is supposed to come above the deck. This is the highest I could get this one, followed by a clunk.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...szr8xlru7.jpeg

Just like I thought.....

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...s3dduqh1e.jpeg

And this is why you dont pull in engines in flip flops!! Not that this will stop me from doing it again.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sjpsfl2gu.jpeg

Lots of new parts showing up daily, engine should be here tomorrow. Broken motor is completely torn down/stripped. All the other new parts in this engine looked great, nothing else seems damaged other then that bearing. So, on to reassembly and upgrades.

Went and picked the motor up from UPS freight and got right onto tearing it down. Overall its much cleaner inside then the previous engine.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sp9srrq3f.jpeg

A welder, a washer, and a nut come in handy for getting those broken exhaust bolts out.......and the vice grips for when you round the nut off! These are completely disassembled and going to the machine shop to be cleaned up.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sclwlgsua.jpeg

Lube your stick before you put it in ok gentlemen.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...seu2fhb6t.jpeg

Pretty clean specimen we got here.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...smdvgbqx3.jpeg

But a little paint never hurt. Is it bad karma to paint it the same as the failed engine?

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...swtdruygh.jpeg

Short block is done, cleaned all the metal debris out of the oil pan and shot a fresh coat of black on the motor mounts.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sbggzfucx.jpeg

I spent hours cleaning the pistons on the last engine. These got a quick rub down and Im calling it good.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sdjmvwazq.jpeg

And through the magic of the internet, the heads have arrived back home in about 30 seconds!!! They were cleaned and milled but no other work was performed.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...soxcanbma.jpeg

Here's an intake valve. Notice the silver streak around the lower edge. That's where it seals to the valve seat in the head. We are gonna freshen that surface and hopefully widen it some for a better seal.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sriunf7gn.jpeg

Take your compound, and spread it like so. Doesn't have to be perfect.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...s2vuive9e.jpeg

Stick it into its hole and clamp your drill onto the stem so you can use the drill to spin the valve in the head.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...srfnknmaw.jpeg

Use the slow speed setting on your drill, and move it in and out (on and off the seat). Wow what a difference 20 seconds makes.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...suv1cepqc.jpeg

Comparison.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...suj6dtxfg.jpeg

The sealing surface in the head.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sfbebjjsf.jpeg

Exhaust valve comparison. A little pitting on them is normal and nothing to worry about. Once i mate a valve to a hole, it stays there. I dont move it around once its been ground in. Also make sure you wipe as much of the compound off the head and valve as you can when youre done and hit the valve stem with some wd40 to help it slide in the valve guide easier.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sewdxbuza.jpeg

During the car disassembly I found some melted plastic looming on the block's main ground wire so I got some heat shield for that and the starter wire that run down the passenger side of the engine. Don't want or need any sparks unless they are in the combustion chamber. I also have a brass T for the brake booster that's returning to service, and the brake line adapters since I sold my stock lines and will be remaking new ones from scratch.......again.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sl92w7ngv.jpeg

-8 line for the new cooler setup, beautiful TCI SFI flexplate and a starter heat shield.....for the battery. Yep, its the perfect size to insulate the battery and keep some heat off of it.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sj6qbdtv8.jpeg

Since Im doubling the fans Im going to run a new power feed to the back. New fan and cooler, and you can see the Y block and elbow feeds. The idea is.....well **** you'll see when i get to that point.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...stzxggdui.jpeg

Im stuck on the engine due to no valve seals (slow shipping). Figured since I was bored I would paint something. Meh, it turned out ok.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sfx23kysy.jpeg

Well that turned out a little brighter then expected.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sb97llazd.jpeg

Much better. Ive always thought that corner under the hood was dark and needed something to spruce it up, maybe this will help....or just look silly. Either way it should be fun.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...seljxkre1.jpeg

Things are clicking right along.....motor should be complete and back together soon.

So we left off with an assembled short block, I stole the dual springs off the old 862 heads and installed them along with new valve seals on the new to me 799 castings. Cleaned all the block holes with an ARP thread tap, and copper coated the new LS9 head gaskets. I used ARP moly lube on the china studs and torqued in three passes, 25, 50, 75. No drama.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...su9gf8wnx.jpeg

Got the engine mounted to the K member and rolled the trans over to it. Notice my super sophisticated "converter keeper" bolted to the front of the trans. Keeps that beauty from falling out and hitting the ground while it rolls around in the garage. Patented pending. Also, got the TCI flexplate mounted, fit fantastic, very nice piece. I removed the intake temporarily so that my chain didnt scuff it or the fuel rails.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...su5wmm6un.jpeg

Mounted the hotside and accs up and that was about the end of the playtime for me. I pushed it over closer to the car just to remind myself that this is close to being over with.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...syquxujt0.jpeg

The loudest and fastest beer coaster I know of. You'll also notice i used some of that heat shield wrap on the PS lines. Dont wanna blow those on a hot turbo going down the road. And if you have a sharp eye, you can see i removed the heat shields on the manifolds, wrapped them, and reinstalled the shields. Since they kick off a ton of heat I figured why not. Catching a few of these little details this go round.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...schckjdze.jpeg

Well I cant catch a damn break to save my life. Lets start at the beginning, motor was ready to be rolled under. I draped the harness over it, then moved on to the car. I cut more clearance in the tunnel for the rear trans cooler line (which ended up not helping a ton), and trimmed the passenger side lower radiator bracket (the cold side pipe was resting against it), reinstalled the stock booster (looked for half an hour for the little retaining clip that holds the rod on the pedal) and made up the rear brake line AWAY from the manifolds. Rolled her under and it went real smooth.....I lifted the car by the ceiling joists. Red booster blends right in back there, not an eyesore at all.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...st2h54evh.jpeg

I got under and shortened the turbo drain line (it was about 10 inches too long and had to be looped around), hooked everything up and went to fire. Just a click. After scratching my head for a bit I decided to clean the block ground on the starter side. Well that worked and i got it to turn over but no fire. After some more scratching and a cold beer i determined in my infinite wisdom i did not plug the crank sensor in. Doh. Crappy pic but look at that oil pressure!

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...sqjrlht3i.jpeg

Still need to make the new front brake line, bleed the brakes, and add the 2nd trans cooler/fan. For the bad, lost all forward gears in my yukon today, Im sure I broke the pump in the transmission. So unfortunately the camaro has to go on the backburner for a few until i get that sorted out. Fall weather is quickly going away and was wanting to make a track pass this year.......I am happy this motor sounds healthy with no apparent issues. I ran it about a half hour last night.