Some electrical gremlins after my engine swap
#21
12-03-2015, 03:23 PM
Ok so i had to dremel a big chunk of that plastic out because mine is solid on one of the squares immediately to the right of that connector but i got it out and im writing a list of all the changes in pins. I only have a few Im not sure about.
On the 98 side of it:
A14 - Red - Generator output indicator control - I cant find one that could potentially match up with this one at all..
B1 - Brown - Odometer illumination - I think this one might stay where it is because the corresponding 00 one is B1-BRN-Park lamp supply voltage
B2 - Grey - I/P illumination lamps feed - I think this one goes to B9-GRY-Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage? Or do I have this one and the previous one here mixed?
Also on the 00 side, Im going to list the ones here I thought might have a sister connection that I noted up there just incase:
A13-Ppl/Wht-Instrument Panel Lamp Control
B5-Ppl/Wht-Starter Relay Coil Supply Voltage - Should anything go here?
B7-Orn/Blk-Trunk Lamp Control
B9-Gry-Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage
I have all the rest of them figured out and Im happy to be making progress.
Edit: Now that I think of it.. I didnt know what I/P stood for but after typing this post it dawned on me. So that B2 must go to B9. *smacks head*
Edit2: GODDAMN HOW DO YOU GET THOSE ****ING PINS OUT ARGH.
Edit3: Nevermind, I figured out how to get them out easy enough lol. Boy that was obnoxious! haha
I also have one more question. A1 Pink and A5 Pink are both listed as "power feed from gages fuse 9" meaning they are basically the same wire?
Edit4: Well I have them all matched up on that cluster connector. The unused ones I left disconnected but if there is any reason for me to want to hook them in somewhere i can. I just have to do a few more connectors on the passenger side kick panel and Im going to try it out. Ill let you know how it goes.. fingers crossed! I checked and double checked and Im pretty sure Ive done it properly.
Edit 5: No luck. The cluster seems to be working pretty good but now the car wont start lol. click click click screams starter. I think its the B5 Starter enable coil something er other. I had nothing plugged into there and I dont see anything on the 99 harness that fits the bill. :\
On the 98 side of it:
A14 - Red - Generator output indicator control - I cant find one that could potentially match up with this one at all..
B1 - Brown - Odometer illumination - I think this one might stay where it is because the corresponding 00 one is B1-BRN-Park lamp supply voltage
B2 - Grey - I/P illumination lamps feed - I think this one goes to B9-GRY-Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage? Or do I have this one and the previous one here mixed?
Also on the 00 side, Im going to list the ones here I thought might have a sister connection that I noted up there just incase:
A13-Ppl/Wht-Instrument Panel Lamp Control
B5-Ppl/Wht-Starter Relay Coil Supply Voltage - Should anything go here?
B7-Orn/Blk-Trunk Lamp Control
B9-Gry-Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage
I have all the rest of them figured out and Im happy to be making progress.
Edit: Now that I think of it.. I didnt know what I/P stood for but after typing this post it dawned on me. So that B2 must go to B9. *smacks head*
Edit2: GODDAMN HOW DO YOU GET THOSE ****ING PINS OUT ARGH.
Edit3: Nevermind, I figured out how to get them out easy enough lol. Boy that was obnoxious! haha
I also have one more question. A1 Pink and A5 Pink are both listed as "power feed from gages fuse 9" meaning they are basically the same wire?
Edit4: Well I have them all matched up on that cluster connector. The unused ones I left disconnected but if there is any reason for me to want to hook them in somewhere i can. I just have to do a few more connectors on the passenger side kick panel and Im going to try it out. Ill let you know how it goes.. fingers crossed! I checked and double checked and Im pretty sure Ive done it properly.
Edit 5: No luck. The cluster seems to be working pretty good but now the car wont start lol. click click click screams starter. I think its the B5 Starter enable coil something er other. I had nothing plugged into there and I dont see anything on the 99 harness that fits the bill. :\
#22
12-03-2015, 03:24 PM
Ok so to clarify, maybe you can see something that I am missing.
B3-Ground to B11-Ground
A1-Power Feed to A3-Ignition 1 Voltage
A13-Power Feed to A10-Battery Positive Voltage
A3-"Security" lamp to B3-Security Indicator Control
A4-"SES" lamp to A8- "MIL" control
A10-"Brake" lamp to A5- "Brake" lamp
A11- High beams to A17-High beams
B2- I/p illumination lamps feed to B9 - I/p Lamp Supply Voltage
B5-Right Turn signal to B10-Right Turn signal
B12- VSS to B8- VSS
B13- Tach Signal used for serial data to B6- IPC class2
B14- Left turn signal to A12- L Turn Signal
B16- Oil Pressure to B14- Oil Pressure
What am I missing?
B3-Ground to B11-Ground
A1-Power Feed to A3-Ignition 1 Voltage
A13-Power Feed to A10-Battery Positive Voltage
A3-"Security" lamp to B3-Security Indicator Control
A4-"SES" lamp to A8- "MIL" control
A10-"Brake" lamp to A5- "Brake" lamp
A11- High beams to A17-High beams
B2- I/p illumination lamps feed to B9 - I/p Lamp Supply Voltage
B5-Right Turn signal to B10-Right Turn signal
B12- VSS to B8- VSS
B13- Tach Signal used for serial data to B6- IPC class2
B14- Left turn signal to A12- L Turn Signal
B16- Oil Pressure to B14- Oil Pressure
What am I missing?
#24
12-03-2015, 03:38 PM
yep it clicks. the only one that seemed important that i hadnt done was that starter relay enable one.
the good news though is that the odometer is functional and reading the mileage. other features seem like they will function as well. im not getting the cluster going crazy quite like before i had done any of this so. ive got a wire ready to go in that starter relay slot just looking over these pinouts.. i dont really see anything aside from theft deterrent fuel enable and thats one that didnt need to be changed.
the good news though is that the odometer is functional and reading the mileage. other features seem like they will function as well. im not getting the cluster going crazy quite like before i had done any of this so. ive got a wire ready to go in that starter relay slot just looking over these pinouts.. i dont really see anything aside from theft deterrent fuel enable and thats one that didnt need to be changed.
#25
12-03-2015, 04:24 PM
The instrument cluster has nothing to do with the starter circuit. That starter line you see is just a line that goes hot when the switch is turned to Start. I am thinking it just keeps the cluster gauges from jumping around while starting. It is not an output from the cluster. Perhaps the battery is just low because of this work.
By the way, how did you master the technique of removing those terminals? I am having very little luck there.
Also, I have checked your following list and everything looks fine:
"B3-Ground to B11-Ground
A1-Power Feed to A3-Ignition 1 Voltage
A13-Power Feed to A10-Battery Positive Voltage
A3-"Security" lamp to B3-Security Indicator Control
A4-"SES" lamp to A8- "MIL" control
A10-"Brake" lamp to A5- "Brake" lamp
A11- High beams to A17-High beams
B2- I/p illumination lamps feed to B9 - I/p Lamp Supply Voltage
B5-Right Turn signal to B10-Right Turn signal
B12- VSS to B8- VSS
B13- Tach Signal used for serial data to B6- IPC class2
B14- Left turn signal to A12- L Turn Signal
B16- Oil Pressure to B14- Oil Pressure"
By the way, how did you master the technique of removing those terminals? I am having very little luck there.
Also, I have checked your following list and everything looks fine:
"B3-Ground to B11-Ground
A1-Power Feed to A3-Ignition 1 Voltage
A13-Power Feed to A10-Battery Positive Voltage
A3-"Security" lamp to B3-Security Indicator Control
A4-"SES" lamp to A8- "MIL" control
A10-"Brake" lamp to A5- "Brake" lamp
A11- High beams to A17-High beams
B2- I/p illumination lamps feed to B9 - I/p Lamp Supply Voltage
B5-Right Turn signal to B10-Right Turn signal
B12- VSS to B8- VSS
B13- Tach Signal used for serial data to B6- IPC class2
B14- Left turn signal to A12- L Turn Signal
B16- Oil Pressure to B14- Oil Pressure"
Last edited by GaryDoug; 12-03-2015 at 04:45 PM.
#26
12-03-2015, 04:51 PM
Right again brother! Im back to report good news! It works! 100%(aside from the fuel gage as expected). Oh my goodness I cannot even begin to tell you how much your help has meant to me. Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you! I am ecstatic right now lol!
I noticed you are in florida and if you ever come through ocala.. I seriously owe you a beer or a dinner or something. Thank you so much for your patience with me. Oh man this is awesome. This car is DONE, it is complete. This was the final thing needed to be done in this engine swap and its finally done! Wooooo!
I noticed you are in florida and if you ever come through ocala.. I seriously owe you a beer or a dinner or something. Thank you so much for your patience with me. Oh man this is awesome. This car is DONE, it is complete. This was the final thing needed to be done in this engine swap and its finally done! Wooooo!
#28
12-03-2015, 05:17 PM
As far as those terminals goes, ok it has the square shaped section then a section next to it with like "one side of a square" which is where the little hook is that holds it in place. what i was doing is taking a paper clip and pushing it up against that one side as i inserted it and just kept repeating that action, pulling it out and sliding it up against that one side until i felt it push up with the paperclip. sometimes they would come out really easy some times they would take a while but i could usually get it out within a few minutes.. some of them took as long as 10 minutes lol
#30
12-03-2015, 05:22 PM
its EXTREMELY hard to see but if you look into the hole with just the "one side of the square" you can kind of see this little tab in there and its almost off in one corner but it changes depending if you are on the A section or the B section. and of course the paper clip was straightened out. I used one initially that had this plastic coating on it and it was a flimsy *** paperclip but then when i was meandering in between the house(to look up a trick for getting them off) and the car, i found a much sturdier paperclip in the dirt and once i get a decently sturdy paperclip and slid it in there at like a 10-15 degree angle against the metal of the "one side of a square" section.. most of them popped out with "ease" but it still took some jiggling and finagling(spelling? lol)