I bought a 1995 Camaro about 6months ago. They said it had been garage kept and rarely driven since they bought it. It had low mileage for the year and when we went to the notary I did indeed see that he had not put more than a few hundreds miles on it over the course of those 5yrs that he owned it. The guy had all the paperwork on the work. It has dual exhaust, he added a cold air intake - and changed the psi's, and then some basic work like replacing the starter and such were done to it.
*I want to add that the previous owner had inspection exemptions on the car for all 5yrs he owned it because it had so few miles put on it each year. So it basically has not been inspected for quite a few years now.


Soon after I bought the car, the check engine light came on and off for about a month (wouldnt come that much - I noticed it came on during long drives or fast speeds). I took it to Auto zone for a free check engine light test. They said they could only do it cars made after 96 - but tried it anyways and it said it was a part that is related to emissions. I bought the part and replaced it myself. Light went off for about 2 weeks. Then suddenly it was back on at the same times - long drives and fast speeds. I took it back to Autozone and this time I was told they would not test the car because it was a 95 - I tried to explain that it had been done before but they still refused to go out and do it. So I decided to just continue driving it like that.

About two months later the car started to overheat. A friend of mine looked at it and said the heater core was leaking and the thermostat was stuck. So he bypassed the heater core and took out the thermostat - and then added more antifreeze to the car.
A day later it was overheating again but this time orange stuff was all over the ground (thick orange stuff). I open the hood and it was all over the place - it had came out of the overflow.

So then I decided to flush out the cooling system. I bought a bottle of the stuff at a store. I used a water hose first and noticed a clog right away. I put something in the drain hole and finally was able to get the water flowing. I did this until the water was running clear (instead of the orange color). Then I did the flush. This worked for about two weeks. But soon my car was overheating again and I had orange thick stuff in my radiator and coming out of the overflow all over again.

The check engine light started coming on more frequent and the car was overheating more frequently as well.

I soon realized that the fan stopped kicking on and so I then was having to run my car with the ac on to prevent overheating. Which works unless I drive it too much in one day.

I feel like antifreeze in it makes it run worse. So I started only putting water in it. I have to keep filling it up though. As long as I keep water in it, then it doesnt overheat. I have looked everywhere for a leak and can not find one. Someone said the water is evaporating and that is why I keep having to add more.

Everyone says its not related but I feel like car isn't running right either - and it has only gotten worse over time. When I drive sometimes I feel like it suddenly has more power and sometimes doesnt have enough. Also, sometimes I am at a stop and the car revs (on its own) and tries to go forward - to the point that I have to step harder on the brake. A friend was driving it (its an automatic) and noticed the problem somewhat he said. So he decided to drive it as a stick (putting it in second gear and such). He said that the way I drive the car is too hard and too fast ... and that I don't burn off all the fuel that I dump in by stomping on it and then having to suddenly break. When he drives it, I notice better performance for a few days after - and then it is back to running rough and inconsistent again. He told me to take it out on a highway and just floor it until and burn off the extra gas - and to use a mixture of regular and high octane gasoline in the car. I haven't tried these ideas because I can't see why it would help with the problems I am having.

I have called a few garages and I get different answers and prices. I am not sure who to even trust to take it to. Someone said that someone added two incompatible antifreezes to it and that caused it. Someone else said that someone must have put stop leak in it. Someone else said it is because I dont have the thermostat and heater core hooked up (but it did this beforehand). Some say they will just do a flush and hope it fixes the problem and they cant tell me what it is until after they do a flush. Others say it could be anything and they wont know until looking at it.

I dont want to pay for needless work or worthless evaluations. I can do most work on my car myself - but unfortunately I don't know what is wrong with it.

I was quoted $700.- at one place to just have it flushed, the thermostat and heater core put in. I can put the heater core and thermostat in for just the cost of parts (about $100). The flush is about $100 at a shop which I don't mind doing because it needs done really bad!

I don't have water or coolant in the oil that I can tell. I do see white smoke from the exhaust but always have seen that I think - and when I put a cloth over the exhaust there is no residue. I don't notice any white stuff anywhere like around the oil cap and such. SO I don't think there are any issues like a blown head gasket or anything.

I really love my car and want to get it fixed but I can't afford to sink a lot of money into it just trying to get it running right. Also, winter is coming around so if I can't soon get the problems fixed - I could end up with a cracked block.

Anyways, just thought i'd throw all of this out here on this forum and see if I get any good thoughts about what is going on with my car. Any thoughts are very much appreciated. = )

 

First I would suggest buying a cheap scan tool at least. I was doing a lot of work, and still am, on mine and without some sort of method to check codes and scan data I was lost after awhile.

Have you bled air from the coolant system after you refill? And you said orange coolant, so assuming it's dexcool which alot of ppl don't run because they say it helps contribute to eating the gaskets. You should be using 50/50 and not straight water. Should always have a T-stat in since running without one can lead to other problems as I've read on the forum.

Flushing the system yourself would be better then dishing out $100 IMO. Flush all the lines and even the radiator.

Have you done any basic tune ups yet, such as plugs and wires?

 

A guy at the garage said the reason it is good to have a mechanic run the diagnostic test is because it is not always as simple as just replacing the parts that pop a code for them. For example, mine has twice read I needed a part that was related to my emissions - even after replacing that part. The mechanic said it might not be that part. He said I could have an underlieing issue that is triggering that code / problem with that part.

But I have yet to actually have them do the diagnositic test because why pay an extra $80 for a diagnostic test when the light might only be on because of this cooling system problem. I will pay to run one or buy that tool after this cooling system issue is taken care of - if the light continues to come on.

I dont think I can bleed the air out. I dont have a thermostat or heater core. Don't I have to turn on the heat or something?

I have done two flushes at home. None have worked. I have even sat for hours with the waterhose just running through it. It always ends up running clear. But then a few days later it is always back to being thick and orange again. I have only been running straight water in it for the past week or two. I have an appt at the garage to have it flushed out on Tuesday. Then I will go back to 50/50. But I just have a feeling that flush isn't the answer. I think there must be a problem causing this problem in the first place. I will be putting the thermostat in on Tuesday after the flush. I just wanted to make sure it is flushed out really good before putting the thermostat and heater core back in.

I changed the oil and filter, the spark plugs, wires, washed my air filter soon after I bought the car.

 

They way I went with it, as soon as I could afford the extra cash I took that $85 they would charge to run diagnostics at a shop and bought my own cable. It is a USB cable so it connects to my laptop and the other connects to the port under the dash. There is numerous free scanning software available. I have been using them and running scans to look at all the data and codes. Fairly simple to setup and you would be so glad you have the ability to run your own scans in the long run.

When flushing the system did you also remove the block drain plug on the lower driver side of the block? Do that then flush straight water through a few times. Then, hook everything back up and put the drain plug back in. Add water into the system until almost full and pour the flush solution in. Go for a decent drive and then let it idle afterwards for awhile. Turn it off and let it cool. Drain everything again, remove the plug etc. Flush a few more times with water. Replace the plug, and use water a few more times. That should flush out quite a bit in the lines and block. You can also remove the radiator, not that hard, and flush it out quite a few times as well with just the hose.

There are bleeder screws on the coolant lines, slowly loosen them until air begins to seep out. Keep them open until a steady stream of coolant begins to come out and then tighten them back up. Some people prefer to have the vehicle on an incline to help bleed the air. Bleed the lines once, then go for a drive, bring it back and bleed them again. Keep trying to get as much air out as possible until all air is out.

 

sounds to me like you mixed orange and green antifreeze. when mixed they can turn to a jello kind of stuff and clog the cooling system. if its allowed to get hard it will ruin the radiator and heater core by plugging some or all of the small tubes. that may be what has happened to you.

 

That might be it because the heater core IS shot and I had to bypass it. I am thinking that the reason the fan isn't working without turning on the ac is because it is so gunked up around the relay switch sensor -causing it not to work. So basically the entire cooling system is getting worse and worse by this mess.

I wonder if it is worth taking it in to get it flushed by the garage. I know they have pressure to push it through and better chemicals... so I am hoping it works.

A new radiator is $150.- and a heater core $60.- and a new relay switch $15.- I can do the labor myself.

I think I will ask the mechanic on Tuesday if it is worth doing the flush now or better to just replace everything and then maybe do a flush?! I dont want to flush it now, find out I have to replace everything and then need another flush afterwards.

I want to make sure that mixing antifreeze is what caused this problem - I was told at a parts place the same thing - that this was likely caused by someone mixing antifreezes.

 

dont use that orange stuff. i always go with the green. if its getting hard you would probly be better off changing them and flushing the heck outa the motor and oil cooler. better clear the steam tubes too. without them flowing the coolant will boil over.

 

UPDATED:
I took the car to the garage today to get flushed out. The mechanic called me a short time later and said that he is unable to fix my car. He recommended a radiator shop. He said that the dexcool is known for causing erosion problems and that the car sat for 5yrs making it worse. I bought the car about 6mths ago and I run it a lot. He said that I probably was pushing the rust and such throughout the car and it has become progressively worse over that time. It has ruined the thermostat, heater core, radiator, relay switch to the fan. He said he read two temperatures on the radiator so he said there is a clog in it. I then went over to the radiator shop and he said that he suggested I replace the heater core but keep it bypassed until he flushes it. Then bring it in and he would take out the radiator and flush the block. BUT he could not guarantee that the block can be fixed from the all the rust.
Also, the mechanic at the first place said he believes I might have a blown head gasket - there has been white smoke and the motor doesn't run consistently. He said if not too bad - that the first signs could be as simple as white smoke when first started up and a rough idle / almost like a miss in the car. I dont notice a miss - but defintiely the car has times when it runs rough.
Both mechanics felt the car had so many problems that it might not be worth fixing at all. I love my car and hate to give up on it. `But I am debating on doing the above and selling it or getting a different mtor. I also think I have problems with the transmission annd who knows what all damage has been done from running the car like this for 6mths - over heating on a daily basis.

 

Don't know that I would agree with "Not fixing" at worst you can pick up low mileage LT1's (guessing thats what you have) for a song on eBay or craigslist.

 

Well since driving it will only make it worse, here is what I would do. You already have the heater core bypassed so leave it alone for now. Flush out your system on your own with a process like I mentioned before. You should flush out quite a bit since you have gunk built up so much. The first flush would mainly be for the block and hoses. You can also take the radiator out and flush it by itself multiple times in attempt to clear the radiator of debris and gunk. If you can clear it set it aside, and go back to trying to flush(force water through) your lines and block until it runs clear. Put everything back together then use the flushing solution and method I mentioned before once again. May take some time, but it's better to at least try rather then throw high dollars at it with a shop. You never know, you may be able to clear it out enough to help your cause.