I recently (about 3 or 4 weeks ago) replaced my ignition switch which fixed my starting problem. there has been a couple of times that the security ligh comes on and I wait for it to go off then it cranks right up but yesterday it done something TOTALY new. I was going down the road had just stopped about 4 miles back and got gas when all of a sudden it sputtered but clearted up and ran fine. . . .for about 2 miles. it started kicking and bucking and running REALLY bad then went dead. I pulled over aqnd after it sat there for a few minutes it cranked. went about another mile and died again. this time wouldn't crank but each time it appeared to TRY to start and you could smell this weird smell. after sitting there about 20 minutes it cranked right up, ran fine all way back home. never done anything else bad. got home shut it off and cranked right back up fine! Any ideas what it may have been?

 

Could be the fuel pump is overheating and going out.
Could be your catalytic converter is restricted, which will get worse as it heats up, enough to choke and kill the engine.
Could be the ignition module is overheating and killing spark.
Obviously the best thing to do is check for spark and fuel when it kills, but that's not very convenient.
Checking fuel pressure and exhaust flow would be the first logical steps.

 

That really sounds like symptoms of a dying fuel pump. First thing I would do is check the fuel pressure like 69 said. You can rent a gauge from Autozone. Even if it's running okay when you check it most likely it will still be low if it's on the way out.

 

pull the fuel filter and dump er out in a clear container. look for water but also if its full of crud. does sound like fuel pump/pressure issue. test fuel pressure.

 

Its weird how less than 10 miles AFTER buying gas it done this but hasn't since. Still wonder if it was water or trash. I have driven it about 80 miles or so since this happened. I got some sea foam and put it in today and went about 40 miles, no problems. The pump was supposedly replaced right before I got the car. I have had the tank off trying to fix the fuel gauge and the pump does appear to have been replaced. But I do need to check it just to be safe.

 

the filter will hold some water in the down side. it could have been enough to fill it over so it got to the injectors. if it was water, the filter will still have some water in it. no cost if filter is clean and no water just put it back and look for another problem.

 

WELL the answer to my title question is a resounding NO!
I'ts been starting and running fine with the exception of the flutter the other day. I was in it sunday morning and made a stop and it wouldn't start but a guy with a scanner checked it, had NINE CODES thrown! 2 of which was my o2 sensors and 2 were the misfire the other day, the other 5 were something about a circuit and something about the crank sensor. he cleared the codes and it started right with no more trouble. . . .UNTIL I got in it to go somewhere yesterday and it would crank over but not start! I'm about to scream now! I'm about ready to just go back to an older style of car and say the heck with all this computer crap. too much nonsense just to crank a car now.

 

not much we can do without knowing what the codes are.

 

I don't know if any of these codes will help or not, they are not the actual Check Engine codes but I found how to retrieve the codes from the BCM so here they are in the order which they were retrieved and what the chart said they meant:
25 - Security LED present (AU6 only)
31 - Courtesy Lamps Feed (circuit shorted to ground)
33 - Retained accessory power (circuit shorted to ground or battery +)
35 - Security LED present (AU6 only)
55 - Begin configuration display
-## hardware configuration
-## software configuration
25 - Security LED present (AU6 only)
31 - Courtesy Lamps Feed (circuit shorted to ground)

 

You said two of the codes had to do with the O2 sensors and two had to do with misfires and one may have been for the crank sensor. That throws a red flag right there. While it's possible they go hand and hand with each other, it's possible they are what is causing the problem. Your car doesn't just throw codes to **** you off; it's a early warning sign that something is not working proper and should be addressed. Have someone try pulling the codes again (even if the light isn't on they may be stored) and write them down and report back to us.