Just a couple tricks from a guy that's changed out many of these in my car over the years. The bolts that these replacement motors come with and sorta smaller than the holes they go in, letting the motor move just a bit when you roll the window up and down. This will wear out the motor faster, about half as fast from my expierence. Get some bigger diameter bolts that will fill the hole in the motor and not let it move. I had a much longer life from motors after I switched to a bigger bolt.

Be careful what you do to the inside door, it's just fiberglass and will crack/chip easy. So therefore if you screw up a bolt hole, it's not easy to fix. And if you don't tighten these bolts down good and use threadlock, the motor movement can cause the bolts to wear away at the bolt holes in the panel and lead to misalinement problems with the window and seal. Trust me as I learned this the hard way and now have a bunch of aluminum braces in my drivers side door to get my motor and reg where they should be because the holes got wore out to twice the normal size or bigger.

 

One more question.. How can you tell if the widow regulator is bad? I've been looking at prices online for window motor replacements and they sell with and without the regulator. I can get an ACDelco window motor for $30 on amazon but motor and regulator costs a lot more.

 

that I really can't tell you as I've never replaced a reg, only motors. And I've got over 200K miles on my car and had as a DD for over 15 years now.

 

The motor is the motor, the regulator is the mechanics (gears, arms, tracks, etc.). If your window goes up and down, without rocking or binding, and it doesn't jump or skip any teeth, then your regulator should be fine. If all the problem you're having is a sluggish window, and the autotrix wiring or lubing up the tracks doesn't do the trick, then the motor is worn out.

 

when I push the button to roll the window up, it moves a 1/2 inch then stops. I have to wait a minute before pushing it again to roll it up. It will never make it to the top without pulling up on the window. I was just told by a shop that the older scissors style regulators usually don't go bad, so its most likely just the motor. thanks again guys.

 

That's just your motor, if you're reg was messed up you would hear poping from binding and metal on metal noise. What I have seen before is something getting caught in the track where the plasitc wheels on the reg roll and that causing the window to dip to the front or rear when going up, or not going up at all. But with that you would probably hear some sort of noise associated also.

 

if you look in the how to and faq sticky at the top of this section you will find this
https://camaroforums.com/forum/gener...gulator-64492/ there are several different links to threads or sites with directions and info.

 

I did one this weekend. It was very easy with the guide telling me where to drill to find the rivets. I replaced the motor only. I figured that was the problem, but if it wasn't I could always buy a regulator separately. I bought a Dorman $30 motor and am very happy.

The guide actually makes it look harder than it is. It seems like you have to drill through a metal panel to get to the rivets, but really the panel is only fiberglass and is REALLY EASY to drill through. Also once you take out the rivets, you can used screws (included with my motor) to attach the new motor.

Out of all the pictures on the guide, this is the only one you need to print out, everything else to me was self explanatory. windowmotor13

 

I used the shbox picture guide when I did my the first time. I do them fir friends here and there, and it's important to remember to put some red threadlok on those nuts and bolts because unlike rivets, bolts will come loose way easier without thread lock. I got an AC Delco off ebay with a 3 yr warrantee for like 30ish bucks new. I'd get the one you saw on amazon

Austin

 

How to video:

Window Motor Replace '02 Camaro 4th. Gen - YouTube