Please help....Right flasher front and back signal not clickin Interesting Info. too
 

Hi, members and fellow Camaro Car Enthusiasts:

*This is an interesting 2 Part Post with an Update, but the problem may be Interior inside the Camaro cabin with a Flasher, a $7 part at Autozone. Part of this post (because I don't have a user manual), asks if anyone came across this problem and if they know a YOUTUBE VIDEO ON HOW TO REPLACE A '93 CAMARO FLASHER

1) My Right Directional signal was often a solid green arrow (not flashing when I pushed it up) & no clicking on my '93 Camaro Base, not v-8 engine. Is it a weak fuse because... (and Update from help from a cheaper Freelance Mechanic-friend of mine)

the back right directional signal (it's the right one not the left one) is slower in tempo or pace or rate of speed

this could be a weak fuse like a weak battery?

other times, I noticed the blinker (directional signal) on the right is working

but the 2-7 times it didn't work, it was a solid green arrow pointing right while I was inside and no clicking which usually is evidence the directional signal is working.

is this usually a sign of a weak fuse, and I just need to buy another stronger fuse or

could the wiring be frayed

my 93 Camaro has only 135,000 miles and all the little things like the dome lights work, so it has been taken care of with no body damage etc.

Anyone encounter the same or similar problem?

If so, how much would it cost to fix?

I can't use a hand signal those time it doesn't work or I can get slapped with a big fine by the police.

Thanks for any help you could provide me, fellow members.

2) UPDATE:
my backyard freelance mechanic came over later after part 1 of this post. there was no problem with my 1993 camaro fuse related to "turn" signals. as you probably know this make and model's fuse box is to the left of the steering wheel. He saw the right back blinkers bulb was blackish, so we got new bulbs. But the problem may still be lurking Only Because....the interior did NOt click upon directional signal turning right and the flasher arrow was at a solid green. Could this be a problem with the $7 directional signal flasher? Google Research from ask dot com with the funny cartoon icon/avatars revealed the following and I quote: "I'd stongly suspect your flasher. It's a $2 part that is a heat sensitive switch inside. The power going through it to the turn signal bulbs heats it up and it curls "open" stopping the current flow to the turn signals. It cools down and connects again and this is what gives you a blinking power supply. It is a very delicate device and they burn out often. You can normally hear it.. Thats what makes the ticking noise under the dash when you activate the turn signal and it's working properly." (End Quote) Does this jibe or make sense with anyone as the possible CULPRIT? Does anyone know of a Youtube vid to help change the Flasher which is NOT $2 but $7 per Autozone? Thanks, again. Please provide some input as I think this would be a difinitive source of info. / advise and a lot easier than spending time at a shop. I just got a ticket 2 weeks ago for my driver's license not having an updated residence address and the rookie cop wrote the wrong subsection so it's not a fix it ticket but something I have to explain to the judge who in all likelihood would waive the higher fine and just ask me to pay a $25 fix it ticket here in Calif. *Thanks, again so much!!:icon_beerchug:

you got alot going on hear ,i would bring it to real mechanic ,an have hime check it out an fix it for you ,sounds like the other guy dont know what he is doing ,probley just need to flasher replaced ,not an exspencive fix or should not be ,i would simplify that post .above

are there any led bulbs? are you sure you changed the blinker flasher and not the 4 way flasher. yes there are two.

thanks for your answers you 2. i will research further

usually a blinker indicator on constant while in use means a bulb is not lighting up. doesnt matter if its a failing bulb or bulb connection. take the bulbs out and clean connections at the bulb and inside the plugin. they can get covered with carbon or corrosion and cause intermittent failure.

thanks. so far after replacing the rear bulb that looked something out of 1 of Heisenberg's patients meth bulbs all blackish, the blinker is working, clicking, flashing in the capt's cabin and problem seems solved after driving like 10 miles so far. thanks. i hope this is permanent. and everyone who took the time to reply to this post, please have a happy and safe labor day weekend.

Just a FYI it will fail again. You need to replace the socket. This is a VERY common repair. Chances are the new bulb will not live a long like. No matter how well you clean the socket there are pits in the connector surface and these cause a resistance. Luckily the fix is cheap. For a permanent repair solder in the new socket and use heat shrink seal on the soldered connection.

Rock Auto has a new socket $4.10
DORMAN 85832 {#12003759} 3-Wire 90 Deg. Front & Rear

Also if water is getting into the housing the housing itself may need replaced.

95% of the time when get asked to check a light bulb the keeps "blowing" I replace the socket and it is fixed. The other 5% the housing is cracked and water is getting in so it takes a housing and a socket.

thanks a lot Gorn

i copied and pasted as an MS doc, what you wrote. Here in Calif. if a car isn't vintage, it's subject to a hefty pricey smog test and how to pass the smog test every 2 years, mine is due in February 2016. My car feels like it can definitely pass smog, especially after that Catalytic Converter cleaner, a fuel injector cleaner and adding top shelf gas most often. Oil every 3,000 miles, 1 tune up. Thanks, again.