Unhook manifolds or headers from the head. Remove valve covers. Loosen rockers. Spin them around to get the push rods out. Unhook fuel lines, fuel injector wires, throttle cables and cruise cable, the tb coolant line if not bypassed, opti wiring by the intake, egr and evap solenoid, Egr line at the back of the intake. Remove the intake after taking the 8 bolts out.

Remove head bolts. Then stick a screw driver in the intake runner and yank toward fender to break head loose.

You will need rtv(recommend the copper), thread sealant, head gaskets, intake gaskets, head bolts, egr gaskets and a torque wrench.

How to remove head bolts and install with specs. http://shbox.com/ci/head_assy.jpg
Read the very top of how to remove intake. http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
Intake sequence http://shbox.com/ci/intake_sequence.jpg

Cited via LS1LT1.com

Be sure to check the heads for any warping or cracking as it's possible under extreme conditions
Hope this helps!

 

Just pull the dipstick, if it is considerably overfull or looks like hot chocolate or a Starbucks Latte then you have coolant in the oil.

 

be a good idea to pick up a factory service manual for your year.

 

How do I know if its a cracked block? Also dont you have to have the heads tested at a shop to determine if theyre cracked?

Id hate to get all of the work of replacing the head gaskets done to find out the block or a head is cracked.

 

You can take the heads to a machine shop and get them magnafluxed to check for cracks. On the block you'll just have to roll the dice, unless you want to do a full rebuild and then of course you can get everything checked out.

If you have aluminum heads (most likely you do) then the head gasket is most likely the culprit. The difference in the expansion and contraction rate for steel vs. aluminum puts a lot of stress on the gasket. If you are careful when pulling the heads you will probably be able to see where the gasket failed. It will most likely be one of the rear cylinders or between the rearmost cylinders.

 

you would want to have the heads checked for any warp-age anyways so yah be best to have a shop look at them. if its the orange antifreeze it can eat the head gaskets. as far as knowing its a cracked block, like ^^^ says there is no way to know for sure. if you do a compression test and find the weak cylinder then when you take it apart you look at the headgasket at that cylinder for signs of failure. if you dont see any then it may be you just cant see it or could be you need to look at the heads or block closely.

 

Well I cant even turn over the engine right now. After it was smoking bad the other day I tried it out yesterday and it just make some loud ugly noises when turning over then tried again and it would just screech really loud. Sooo not sure where to go from here. the horrible turning over and loud screech i believe are from the starter/flywheel issue i had earlier.

 

sounds like the motor is toast. check around the local wrecking yards to see if any of a low milage lt1.

 

Ugly noises are never a good thing. Probably spun a bearing or the cylinder could be hydro-locked (not that probable). Sounds like time to build a stroker!!

 

so not what i wanted to hear. Its my only car and its winter here and no garage. I have all the equipment for a swap, just no place to do it. How much should a used Lt1 run me.