Thanks Massey, the problem is that in this case, I have all wheels are the same (they were not before) and all tightened up. Although I did not see a problem with the driveshaft joints, it is definitely that or the differential itself.
Let's hope it is the easy part lol

jim

 

Oh well again. I examined the car today. I raised the back of the car and put it in gear with the engine running. That's when I saw the passenger side rear wheel wobbling. The axle seems to be bent.
When I got the car it had 17in wheels on the back from either a 98 or 99 Z and it had the salad shooters on front. With the new rubbers I installed the salad shooters in the back. It seems that these now reveal the problem. I also noticed that at speed the car would vibrate slightly such as when a wheel is not balanced. This would explain it. The car also has a slight hit on that side which would explain how the axle was bent.
Not sure if this all makes sense but it is a start.

Now on to find an axle.

One question, I noticed the front housing seal is leaking. Is this simple to replace?

thanks in advance

Jim

 

so it wobbled with either rims? take the tire off and make sure its your axle and not the rim. front main seal is not that hard to change, if its not leaking that much let it go till you need to change the opti. there is also the front intake seal that can leak down to the front seal area and look like its coming from the front seal so look for a trail of oil from further up.

 

^ Me thinks he may have been asking about the pinion seal. If that's what you're looking into doing, do a bit of research on the subject, or ask questions here -BEFORE- you remove the pinion nut.

 

oh, crab, well in that case i agree with 69.

 

could it just be a bearing on that wheel

 

thanks all for the suggestions. Craby, after getting in the house and pondering a little more I realized that I should have used the other wheel to confirm it was the axle. It was raining so I will do so tonight.

Yes, I meant the front pinion seal on the differential. Is it a pain to remove without disassembling the whole thing?

Thanks many and regards,

Jim

 

are you going to tell him the textbook method or the cheating method?

Awwwwwww, I'll be the lazy guy

go to Mom's bathroom and "borrow" white nail polish. dab some on the yoke, flange the nut and your socket. You dab the socket when the socket is on the nut and the dab must be lined up with the dab on the flange.

of course the dabs must be lined up. Count EXACTLY how many turns it took to remove the nut and be sure to reinstall the nut with the EXACT same turns when re-assembling.

signed- old school guy

 

one more thing as I don't always listen well (so I've been told)

what wheels wobble on the rear?

On the 93-97 maro's the wheels must be open 1/4 inch in order to properly fit over the hub and be tightened. if you try to bull the wheels on they will wobble.

I don't know anything about the salad shooter wheels because those ugly things aren't allowed anywhere near any of my vehicles. So, I don't know if they have different size openings or not but again, be sure whatever wheels you mount on the rear slide completely on.

 

Heh, I didn't want to go through the trouble of answering a question that wasn't asked yet, if the pinion seal wasn't his plan. And I like to "cheat" whenever I think I can get away with it.
Instead of counting the number of turns, I would prefer to count the number of threads that are showing beyond the nut on the pinion shaft. Counting the turns could end up to be slightly inaccurate once you get to the end, or while starting the nut back on again. If you don't put the nut back in the same place as it was, you would/could be altering your pinion gear depth setting, which could eventually damage the r&p gears.