Last night I finally installed my SLP Loudmouth I exhaust. I took my car to my buddy's house who had all the tools I would need. Mind you, it was 7 degrees outside! With a 1000watt halogen lamp, space heater, and some beer we were good to go!

The install took longer than expected, but this is my first "project" I have done to my car. We started a little after 8:00 P.M and did not finish until after 1:30 AM. After I disconnected the pipe from the factory y-pipe, we could not remove the exhaust from over the axle (partially due to not have a car lift and it would hit the floor). So, I had to cut the exhaust near the axle (which took longer than expected). First time using a cutoff wheel, I pushed too hard and the pipe ate the disc for dinner! haha. We had to run to the parts store and pick up a few more discs. Once the exhaust was cut, we could remove it over the axle.

I thought installing the exhaust would be harder than it was, but I was pretty impressed. The main thing that took up some time was lining up the pipes to the middle of the cut-outs in the bumper, and make sure it is not hanging low. Once you have it lined up, start tightening all the clamps.

Here comes to dumb part *palm to face*. I didn't realize until after we tightening the dual tip clamps that they are on the wrong side! Since the bump slightly curves inward, the shorter tips need to be on the inward curve. Somehow I did not catch that. Oh well! I am going to take the car to a muffler shop to have the tips tact welded on instead of using the clamps. I did notice on the way home, there is a small rattle when I start to slow down or am stopped. We made sure everything was tightened. If you grab the exhaust, it really doesn't move at all. I am think the noise is coming from the pipe going over the axle. This afternoon, I fired up the car and you could hear the rattle. I crawled under the car and grabbed the pipe that connects to the tips and the noise stopped. When I let go, I could hear it again; which it sounds like it is coming front he axle area. I'll have the muffler shop look at it when I get the tips tact welded on.

She (Jade) sound really good. To me, it does not seem obnoxiously loud, hell, I want it louder! Check out the video below of the install and a few startups (before and after exhaust was installed). I will say, the iPhone 5 does not do justice to the sound. It sounds much better in person. I'll retake another video on my HD video camera and repost it.

 

The over axle pipe hits the panhard bar. Its a common occurence on any aftermarket exhaust. Best thing to do is get some thick, heat resistant tape or wrap to act as a buffer between the exhaust pipe and the panhard bar. I did it on both mt Camaro and Trans Am and it has worked flawlessly for years.

The LM1 isn't obnoxiously loud like people say until you do headers and ORY, then its just high pitched rasp. I have the LM2 with an ORY and longtubes, and while less raspy than the LM1 I don't think I ever want to hear a longtube/ORY and LM1 car in person lol

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will go to the parts store and pick up some tape or wrap to put around the exhaust over the axle.

lol, when I get my longtube/ORY, I'll let you know what it sounds like!

 

yeah you might want to consider switching to the lm2 or magnaflow bullet when you do LTs and ORY lol, much less raspy. im pretty satisfied with my lm2, but even for my tastes its still too much rasp. For LTs though I do recommend BBK, for the price they are near perfect

 

I've read that Pacesetter fits and sounds better for the 1998 TA's. What is your opinion on it?

 

Pacesetter is the lowest of the lows for budget headers, even Ebay brand headers are equal or better in quality most of the time. On ls1tech they used to be held as somewhat decent quality when the amount of brands available was less, but since brands such as TSP and BBK have come out and made much better quality headers for the same price, the Pacesetters have fallen out of favor.

The main complaints with Pacesetter is in their coatings, fit and ORY. Their coatings do not last long, painted headers last for only a few months before they show wear and the ceramic coating offered by them isn't much better. The fitment isn't proclaimed to be the best, usually having to notch the k member or removing the steering knuckle during install. And finally the ORY is one of the biggest downfalls as it has an atrocious merge (if you can call it that).

Best bang for the buck will be with BBK or TSP. BBK offers ceramic coated headers and ORY for $475. BBK is praised on their astounding fitment and ORY. TSP offers a couple different longtube options for any budget. They have 1 3/4" primaries or 1 7/8" and offer them in stainless steel. You can get a catted y pipe or their own ORY with a Flowmaster merge with their longtubes. Price is usually close to $500 for the headers and then another $100-200 depending on which y pipe you go with.

 

Hmmm, I guess I will cross out Pacesetter. Thanks for the explanation. I will look into the TSP or BBK. Do you recommend the stainless steel over the other options they have?

 

As far as I know, TSP only offers their headers in stainless steel, and stainless steel is better than ceramic coating.

Texas Speed 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers

Texas Speed 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers

Those are their two headers with their prices, and below at the bottom of the page you can add your accessories such as the y pipe and other stuff if you need it.

 

Do I need the catted-y? They have an offroad y for $130.

 

Depends on your state emissions and preference. If your state emissions is strict in that they check for cats by using a sniffer or do a visual, you might want to go with the catted y. Catted y's also produce a deeper, cleaner, less rasp filled tone than ORY's but sacrifice some volume. Really its all your preference though.