Need help finding window mod link!
 

It's not about rewiring for a separate power source, and it isn't anything to do with new motors etc. I stumbled across it the first day on the forum on a random thread. I thought I subscribed to the thread but apparently not.

The mod has something to do with removing some sort of 'limiter' idk, but it increases the speed of the windows motion and can be done to both sides. Explanation mentioned drilling holes and taking actual pieces out or off, not sure. But maybe someone knows what I'm referring to or can just throw links my way. Thanks! :icon_urinal:

Disregard, found the link on another forum I use and got the two confused! :D haha

Window Motor Thermal Circuit Bypass:

1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic)http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.

Send me the link ;P

***EDIT*** instructions included. IDK if that was already on this forum or not I didn't see it when searching threads.

This? AutoTrix :: Passenger Window Fix Kit

I found it previously, it was the thermal circuit bypass I added the steps in an EDIT above. But the wiring kit is a good idea and didn't know where I could find one, thanks.

The car has a weak link in the window wiring system which is what makes the passenger side window slower. Poor power supply overheats the motor, and the thermal protector is why it quits. The AutoTrix ^ supplies the motor with good power, so that the motor doesn't overheat and switch off. What that thermal cutout bypass does is it prevents the motor from shutting off when it gets too hot. Eventually, you'll burn the motor out, as that mod is a bandaid, not a fix for the cause of the problem-poor power supply.

I understand, so basically it wouldn't be worth the hassle of doing the thermal bypass if it's just going to burn out and then I'll need to replace the motors anyway. I saw how the kit also comes with a down module for the passenger side which would be great. What I don't understand is how the wiring would be put in. Would I totally rip out the old wiring and run their kit directly off the battery like it says? And what about the driver side wires, since apparently they run off each other....?

If you had an electrical overload in your car that kept popping a fuse, would you replace the fuse with a paper clip to "fix" the fuse popping problem? No, because a popped fuse is a symptom not the cause, and that would make something melt down and/or burn. Same thing here with the overload protector with the motors, and in my opinion is a dumb way to "fix" it. Power to the passenger side comes from the drivers door, and that's where the weakness is. The AutoTrix wiring is an add on that hooks the motor directly to battery power, you don't do any ripping out of existing wires. Is your problem only with the passenger side? That's the popular one to act up.

The driver side tends to start to slow down a little once it gets near to the top. Possibly just the reverse feature or whatever it's referred as when the window hits the seals. The passenger side is very slow. Both windows need an adjustment though. I was looking into this for future reference.