Ignition lock cylindar like problems, need ideas.

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  #11  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:35 AM
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The lock cylindar is only about 3 weeks old, and I replaced it because the old on went out. Or at least I thought it did until this started happening. I guess I'm just going to have to dig into it, anything special I need to know about taking this apart?
 
  #12  
Old 11-08-2010, 09:52 AM
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greenarrow, what I was suggesting is that possibly the ignition switch may not be getting slid far enough. The key is just a tumbler that rotates a cam mechanism that's connected to a rod, that rod runs down the steering column, and attaches to the actual electrical ignition switch. When you turn the key, the rod and switch slide up and down, depending on where you put the key position. The switch is part #80 on the exploded view, and mounts towards the top of the column, below the dash mounting ears. Down there is also where the dimmer switch is mounted. And for all you know, your ignition switch could be loose.
 
  #13  
Old 11-08-2010, 10:24 AM
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Ok, let me see if I got this. I should check the switch under the dash on the column to see if it's loose, I'm guessing two bolts hold it on? You think the shaft could be pushing it out when the wheel is turned on way or another?

Massey, how hard are these to rebuild? Mine's got almost 200K on it and I think I might just pull it and replace the bearings and what not while I got it out. What do you think? Can you tell me what I should replace if I do this?
 
  #14  
Old 11-08-2010, 11:19 AM
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These are not too hard to rebuild if you have the right tools to pull the pins and the 6 point star sockets for the lower part of the pivot head. I have never had to replace bearings in a column that was taken care of. If your base is loose (which you said yours was not) then you prolly dont need to take it apart for anything major. I am going to assume you have the lock plate removal tool since you have already changed the lock cyl once already. And you prolly already know about the retainer for the lock plate and what a pain in the *** tha little clip is to get off. The only other thing that is really any issue with these columns is the airbag coil. Once you remove it DO NOT turn it or you could cause it to fail. GM books will say that the coil failing could deploy the bag.

Also removing the column from the car is the best way to rebuild them if you choose to. Take lots of pictures if you do, some parts need to be removed in stages and also reinstalled in stages or they will not go in as they should. GM did a really good job greasing the bearings and the pivot ball so unless you feel some binding you should be good. Also if you are disconnected from the rack and pinion unit DO NOT TURN THE WHEEL!! that will wind or unwind the coil too much and could cause failure. (dont ask how I know this)

Massey
 
  #15  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:15 PM
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you got a book arrow?
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  #16  
Old 11-08-2010, 01:00 PM
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Massey already posted a link to that exploded view. Except it isn't all fuzzy and gray like yours is.
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:07 PM
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whoops,,, got my head somewhere else today.
 
  #18  
Old 11-08-2010, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
whoops,,, got my head somewhere else today.
Be sure to clean it off real well after you pull it out.
 
  #19  
Old 11-08-2010, 01:39 PM
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LOL, ok so I'm not going to take it out and rebuild it like I was thinking I might just do. I'll check the switch and see if that's loose. I didn't replace the lock cylindar, had someone else do that.

One more question for you massey, about 3 lock cylindars ago, my accs part stoped working. As in you turn the key backwards and your radio comes on. Well that hasn't worked in years, what should I look for on that issue?
 
  #20  
Old 11-08-2010, 01:53 PM
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to make up for it heres what i have. maybe someone on here can use it.
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