LOL.........2A-1.....don't worry....happens to the best of us. Should be the first page of the 3.4L v6 engine chapter. Let me know if you cant find it....I took the picture for you.....lol.
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it's pretty simple when you've got the picture right there in front of ya......lol.....isn't it...;)
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Originally Posted by iLLControl
(Post 585528)
So I stand in front of my car i'll just do it like this- Left side of engine going back is 123, right side going back is 456
So it would be (According to the distributor) L= 1-2 2-4 3-6 R= 4-1 5-3 6-5 Does that seem correct? |
Hey let me ask ya somethin' boss. Did you replace the coolant temp sensor thats just underneath the plenum, just to the right front of the fuel rail. That little 10$ sensor is responsible for reporting to the ECM(brain) how hot everything is, as to determine how mush fuel to dump in the cylinder. They go bad at about 100,000 miles. It's a small component with a huge job. Also if you start smelling fuel in the cabin......that means the fuel pressure regulator is going bad. It's that big lump on top of the fuel rail. Part is about 65 bucks.....but when the seal starts going bad it releases fuel vapor into the vacuum system causing all kinda' trouble, not to mention the smell. I'm not tryin' to be a know-it-all and tell ya what to do, but usually all of these things start going bad at the same time. This generally causes the engine to go from a state of fine operation to a really rough ride......sometimes overnight (depending on the degredation of the system). if you've got any other questions let me know, cause I just did a complete overhaul of all these components....and let me tell ya this 3.4L runs like factory again. It's just about 15-20 little things that go bad all at once seemingly. The best part is they are relatively cheap to replace, and it's easy to do. A novice could do it with a proper manual. God's speed to ya!
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I checked all the wires, made sure they werent crossing, they were in the correct fire order and everything..What's weird is when I turn the key to crank it, it will hesitate to crank like it's trying and trying then it finally fires up (Im going to get a video) It's not throwing any SES code, I replaced the vaccuum check valve and my AC started working again so I think I fixed the vaccuum issue?
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Dude trust me on this one.......it's the coolant temp sensor on top of the motor like I mentioned in my last post.....it's 10-15 bucks depending on where u get it. It's a cheap no-brainer.
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Believe it or not....that little sensor tells the computer how much fuel to dump into the cylinder upon start-up. Its just under the plenum (upper air intake) in the top of the motor, just to the right front of the fuel rail. Change that little thing and your start-up will return.
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Originally Posted by richard.nelson100
(Post 585575)
Believe it or not....that little sensor tells the computer how much fuel to dump into the cylinder upon start-up. Its just under the plenum (upper air intake) in the top of the motor, just to the right front of the fuel rail. Change that little thing and your start-up will return.
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Would it be available at autozone if I ran up there?
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most likely it would but Idk if that would be the issue here. It could be worth a shot. here this has some good info on these sensors OBD-II Trouble Code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input But my guess is it has something to do with something you replaced or something you did when you clean your maf and iac. If the CT sensor is bad it probably would have ran like this before you changed that stuff unless it just coincidentally went bad after you did the other stuff.
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