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-   -   Idling poorly (https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/idling-poorly-66110/)

richard.nelson100 11-17-2011 12:41 PM

LOL.........2A-1.....don't worry....happens to the best of us. Should be the first page of the 3.4L v6 engine chapter. Let me know if you cant find it....I took the picture for you.....lol.

richard.nelson100 11-17-2011 12:43 PM

it's pretty simple when you've got the picture right there in front of ya......lol.....isn't it...;)

greenmachine96 11-17-2011 12:49 PM


Originally Posted by iLLControl (Post 585528)
So I stand in front of my car i'll just do it like this- Left side of engine going back is 123, right side going back is 456

So it would be (According to the distributor)
L=
1-2
2-4
3-6
R=
4-1
5-3
6-5
Does that seem correct?

if it was misfiring because of the wires crossed or a bad one you would most likely get a flashing SES light. Also i would be surprised if it ran at all if you crossed them somewhere. I would have the computer reset. If your IAC was bad your car would probably be running very rich. If everything talked about earlier checks out and the problem persists then vacuum is a good thing to take a look at. Check for leaks, etc. Im not sure if your engine has an EGR valve or not but if so i would pull the egr valve off and clean it out with parts cleaner or something. My dads old blazer's egr would get carbon rocks in it that would hold the spring in it open at idle simulating a vacuum leak. Once cleaned it idled great and there is no sense in buying a new one because the carbon will build up in that one too. Just clean the old one thoroughly.

richard.nelson100 11-17-2011 01:01 PM

Hey let me ask ya somethin' boss. Did you replace the coolant temp sensor thats just underneath the plenum, just to the right front of the fuel rail. That little 10$ sensor is responsible for reporting to the ECM(brain) how hot everything is, as to determine how mush fuel to dump in the cylinder. They go bad at about 100,000 miles. It's a small component with a huge job. Also if you start smelling fuel in the cabin......that means the fuel pressure regulator is going bad. It's that big lump on top of the fuel rail. Part is about 65 bucks.....but when the seal starts going bad it releases fuel vapor into the vacuum system causing all kinda' trouble, not to mention the smell. I'm not tryin' to be a know-it-all and tell ya what to do, but usually all of these things start going bad at the same time. This generally causes the engine to go from a state of fine operation to a really rough ride......sometimes overnight (depending on the degredation of the system). if you've got any other questions let me know, cause I just did a complete overhaul of all these components....and let me tell ya this 3.4L runs like factory again. It's just about 15-20 little things that go bad all at once seemingly. The best part is they are relatively cheap to replace, and it's easy to do. A novice could do it with a proper manual. God's speed to ya!

iLL95 11-17-2011 01:04 PM

I checked all the wires, made sure they werent crossing, they were in the correct fire order and everything..What's weird is when I turn the key to crank it, it will hesitate to crank like it's trying and trying then it finally fires up (Im going to get a video) It's not throwing any SES code, I replaced the vaccuum check valve and my AC started working again so I think I fixed the vaccuum issue?

richard.nelson100 11-17-2011 01:54 PM

Dude trust me on this one.......it's the coolant temp sensor on top of the motor like I mentioned in my last post.....it's 10-15 bucks depending on where u get it. It's a cheap no-brainer.

richard.nelson100 11-17-2011 01:58 PM

Believe it or not....that little sensor tells the computer how much fuel to dump into the cylinder upon start-up. Its just under the plenum (upper air intake) in the top of the motor, just to the right front of the fuel rail. Change that little thing and your start-up will return.

greenmachine96 11-17-2011 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by richard.nelson100 (Post 585575)
Believe it or not....that little sensor tells the computer how much fuel to dump into the cylinder upon start-up. Its just under the plenum (upper air intake) in the top of the motor, just to the right front of the fuel rail. Change that little thing and your start-up will return.

Coolant temp sensor is what I meant instead of the IAC in my post. If it is bad your car may be running rich. You will smell it. If he didnt touch it and it was running fine before he changed the other stuff i wouldnt think that is the problem but if all else fails it may be worth a shot.

iLL95 11-17-2011 02:04 PM

Would it be available at autozone if I ran up there?

greenmachine96 11-17-2011 02:12 PM

most likely it would but Idk if that would be the issue here. It could be worth a shot. here this has some good info on these sensors OBD-II Trouble Code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input But my guess is it has something to do with something you replaced or something you did when you clean your maf and iac. If the CT sensor is bad it probably would have ran like this before you changed that stuff unless it just coincidentally went bad after you did the other stuff.


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