Im going to start rebuilding the rear suspension.

1. Is it ok to mix brands of shocks and struts. Im going to replace the shocks before I buy the struts. Any problem here?

2. The main parts of the rear suspension are the trailing arms and pan hard bar. Is there a noticeable difference in the tubular replacements with poly bushings?

3. Should I bother replacing the springs?

4. Sway bar bushings and end links look good but are original. Should I do those too?

5. Can someone verify my rear sway bar is 19mm and the front is 30mm? 93Z28

6. Anything Im missing?

 

Personally, I wouldn't mix shocks and struts just because the stiffness on them will usually be different, not by much, but sometimes noticeably. For the tubular parts, I can't say since I have yet to add those to the car.
I would replace the springs. They keep the car more level and prevent bottoming out more than new struts and shocks would.
Can't hurt to replace the end links and bushings. Gives you good reason to get bigger sway bars too.
Check out the rest of your bushings when your under there. Ball joints and tie rods too.

 

using different settings on adjustable shocks is helpful so if your going with quality and they are adjustable then yes mixing is ok. if not adjustable you should have an idea of what you want and what your gettting. otherwise you will be getting new shocks in short order. stock sway bars are 30mm front and 19mm rear. if you are happy with the stance and stiffness of the car then there is no reason to replace the springs. if you get some good sway bars and shocks (front are shocks too) the ride will stiffen up as well. quality of the shocks dictate how these cars ride. shock tower brace will cut body flex and is not to costly. look over strano's site and if your interested in buying call him and tell him what you want and what you have to spend. believe me there is a big swing on cost of shocks with quality. sam knows his f bodies and is one of the best in the country when it comes to suspension. Strano Performance Parts - Parts Search

 

What you're saying (what I'm reading) in your post is that you're working on the rear first, and leaving the front alone at this time.
No, just replacing the rear shocks isn't going to cause any "problems". However, if both front and rear shocks are worn to the point of being "dead", you'll probably notice a more dippy front end since the rear will have a firmer rebound than the front.

 

Im really just wanting to restore the factory ride for the most part with a little upgrading where possible. Of course I wasnt considering mixing shocks left to right. I bought a set of the NOS stock rear shocks from the guy on Ebay for $60. shipped and I know I wont be able to find NOS front ones, thats why I was asking. Sway bar sizes are fine with me. I was considering Prothane for the front and rear sway bar bushings and end links.

Craby,you didnt mention anything about the tubular control arms or pan hard bar. They look pretty nice for about $130.00 for all 3 pieces. Made in the USA.
Heres a link:
1982-2002 Chevy Camaro Pontiac Firebird Lower Control Arms & Panhard Bar - RED - | eBay

Thats a nice site and Im sure the parts are quality, but thats beyond my budget. Im just wanting some basic upgrades and new bushings etc. "Over the counter" grade is fine for this car. I have a 2002 Z06 that I have alot of money into. My wife will straight bust a cap in my dome if I go nuts on this Z28.... LOL!

 

they look to be better than stock but not as good as high performance.

 

With the 3rd and 4th gen Camaros the weak link in the vehicles handling is the rear suspension. The design is sound but the materials are the weakness. The torque arm also has a weak link in where it is mounted. Using tubular control arms and panhard bar is simply going to keep them from flexing thus letting the suspension work properly. In my research using poly on these cars is not a very good idea. The suspension works with some binding that is designed into it. The poly does not have the same flex and thus does not allow the best function. Poly will fatigue the body more than rubber. Using poly on the sway bar is fine. As for the torque arm using one of the many tunnel mount arms will allow a more accurate suspension alignment under acceleration and save you from killing trans mounts. Also to help with traction look into lower control arm relocators. They lower the rear arms a little and assist in forward bite under acceleration. They are not to spendy either.

Massey

 

If you're set on getting a new panhard bar, go with an adjustable, if you do end up doing anything with the rear you'll be glad you have the adjustable then and not having to buy it then. And the tubular is a much better upgrade from teh stock stamped parts. You can get poly on the chassis end and rubber to the rear end LCA's and panhard which I've heard is the best of both worlds for a street car. I have my LCA's that way.

 

Thanks for the great informtion guys. I went ahead and bought the LCA's and pamhard bar in the link. I completely understand how the rubber bushings are meant to have somelevel of flex in them that the polys probably wont. I would guess that using the poly lube would aid in giving some movement where needed. Im hoping for the best here and Im expecting an improvment but not miracles!!

My Z28 has 147k miles on it so the suspension needes freshening. Im not a drag racer or track guy.... just a hobbyist that likes to make cars run, look and feel better. I think replacing the wearable items in the suspension will help alot. Im starting with the rear, then moving to the front. can get everything for the rear for abot $270. I havent priced the front parts yet... probably gonna be spendy. After the suspension is done, then its on to new rotors, pads and maybe caiper rebuilds.

 

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