Click, NO start 2000 Camaro V6
 

Hey guys, need help
2000 V6 3800 vin K Camaro
I changed the fuel filter, then when replacing negative (-) terminal to battery, it threw off a lot of sparks, but it DID start. I ran the engine for about 10 min, no problems.
I turned her off to go change clothes to go to the store, about 10 mins. She hasn’t started since. I get one 'click' sound, then nothing.
I checked all the fuses, visually, related to starting, including the fuel pump.
I also switched the A/C relay with fuel pump relay since I didn't know how to check for a bad relay and I knew the a/c worked. No joy.
I tried to jump start her off my van, instead, it killed the van battery.
I connected a battery charger to the camaro but got a '0.0' reading. At first.
Put the charger on the van, got the same, wiggled the (+) clamp and finally got a good reading and got the van started.
Put the charger back on the camaro, wiggled the (+) got a 12.7v reading, waited 5 mins (JIC) it got up to 12.9v, switched it to jump start, no change, just one 'click', no start.
I have been having problems with the BCM:
- intermittent window use
- intermittent FOB use (trouble locking)
- had radio issues shutting off/on...but later found that the 'professional' installers of my aftermarket stereo CUT THE GROUND WIRE ON THE OEM CONNECTOR (notes and pics in previous post), so not sure if BCM prob or not, haven't rewired yet.
QUESTION: can this be the BCM? If so, will the repair of the 'known' 5 areas possibly be the fix needed?
What else could this be?
I need to get my baby back in the garage ASAP! Especially since some @#$%^&* shattered the rear window of my van today!
Thanx

Changing the fuel filter should not effect anything like this, but you did disconnect the battery, so it sounds like you are having some issue. Check/clean the terminals and battery connectors, both ends.

It sounds like you are "spitting fire" meaning when you click to the start position the load is too heavy because you have a bad connection somewhere on the main battery cables.

Does everything work in the "Run" position, door locks, windows, lights, radio, door buzzers, and is the "Security" light staying on or flashing in the run position?

I might also just be the starter is toast or the starter solenoid is bad.
Do you know how to jump the solenoid from the positive battery cable on the starter to the terminal on the solenoid to see if the starter will crank without it?
The fact that it clicks tells me you're getting juice to the solenoid but maybe not to the starter,
As mentioned above first try cleaning the battery terminals and cables really well with a wire brush,they may look fine but could have invisible corrosion causing a bad connection.
If you can start it like this it's probably the solenoid that's bad,if all the terminals are clean and the battery is hot and this won't crank the starter it's probably the starter.

Thanx. Bought a new starter
 

Thanx guys. After the sun came up, I pulled the battery terminals, brushed clean, and reconnected tightly and confirmed the chassis ground was tight. Double checked all fuses. Found a way to confirm relay resistance (thanx YouTube), all within about 78. Double checked relays by swapping: Fuel pump with A/C relay. Starter and Ignition with Fan#3.
I also tried to add a jumper wire at the starter relay inputs, still click only.
I wanted to try to bypass the solenoid, like I used to have to do with my '92 Celica, unfortunately I can't access it or the starter from the top. I have to jack the car up and remove a heat shield to get to it.
I won't be able to install it for a few days, I had to cover the rear window of my vandalized van yesterday due to heavy rains coming Sun and I'm in too much pain to be able to do it today, which sucks because it's so beautiful out right now.
I just hope some jack@#$ doesn't vandalize her before I can get her back in the garage, which is now ready for her again (sleepless nights can be productive, lol).
So I bought a new starter/solenoid, no one in my area sells just a solenoid.
I'll follow up with the results.
Thanks again for the help

Well good luck!

To test your cable and terminal you can do a voltage drop test. This test is simple. Put your red leader off your voltmeter on the positive side of the battery and the black lead on the large same cable at the starter. Take a reading if should be less than .5 volts (1/2 a Vol t). Try to start the car if should still be less than .5 volts. If all is well the non-cranking voltage should show .1 volts and just to .3-.4 Volts on an older cable. You can do this same test from the negative side of the battery to the engine block.

Yes the voltage of the battery itself will drop while cranking but you are measuring voltage lost in the cable. Think of it as a pressure meter and the power flow as water. High pressure at the battery and low-pressure at the starter means a pipe is restrictive. I have fixed a lot of no and slow cranking by replacing positive or negative cables. Sady the battery/starter can fails a short time later because of all the stress is saw from the bad cable.

New starter & battery...NO JOY
 

I didn't realize it has been a whole year.
Finally got around to replacing the starter, had to replace battery too...DIDN'T WORK.
It still just gives one 'click' then nada. F-in-A!
It took me 10 days to change the starter...for nothing!
I'm back to square one. F@#$!

Update. Next steps...
 

Door locks, security light and door 'dinging' sound work.
After turning key to 'run' and getting only the 'click', the "check gauges" and "service engine soon" lights stay lit.
I have a scanner now, so will check that for codes.
After watching some 'scanner danner' vids, I'll also use a test light and/or multi-meter to check solenoid connections, block ground and clean off eyelets with wire brush.
I gotta get a remote start switch first, so I can do this on my own.
Any other help/tips appreciated.

If the click sound is coming from the starter and then all the stuff up to that point is working.

How a GM starter works. The starter is just a high torque motor. On top of that is the solenoid. The solenoid has two jobs. It moves the over running clutch (the gear) so it engages with the flywheel by means of an electromagnet and a lever. As the lever reached it max travel it pushed a pcs of copper the connects the power from the cable to the high torque. This guaranties the gear is in place before the motor tries to turn. So there are two wires going to the starter. One supplies the power to the electromagnet lever the other large one goes straight to the battery. If you hear a click that is the electromagnetic level moving.. That means all the stuff, your BCM, neutral safety switch and everything else is working and you issue is at the starter.

The next question is: is there any noise after the click? A humming could indicate the starter is trying but for some reason cannot turn the motor over. Low power, resistance in the power supply or the ground or for some reason the motor is mechanically just to hard to turn over. You should be able to turn an engine over with a wrench to check it. Also multiple clicks would indicate a power or ground issue

Then there is no humming after the click. This would be an extreme resistance in the power or ground, or something is stopping the lever from its full travel. The gear that engages the flywheel needs clearance so it can slide buy as it engages sometimes if the clearance off this could stop the gears travel so it would not engage the main power. Lastly unless you benched tested the started you could have gotten a bad one. This is WAY more common than people think with aftermarket starters. Just a few months ago we put a starter in my sons 93 Z28. I benched tested it and it did not work. When I took it back to the store they did the same test in a machine with the same results. It was a pain but a good learning expearance for my son. It is also a good idea to get you old starter tested. No need to replace a starter that should be working. Any starter that will pass a bench test should try to start the car. It may just hum but if it does nothing you have something going on.

I have probably seen a dis-proportional amount of bad battery cables because I worked at a dealership and most of the time we would see non-warranty work was when someone had already tried to fix it. Even mechanics seem to think if a cable looks good it must be good.

SOMETHING WORKED! While testing for block ground. NOW WHAT?
 

Update

SOMETHING WORKED! While testing for block ground. NOW WHAT?

First, I pulled the Fuel Pump Relay, because I didn’t want the car to actually start while doing the test.

I got a remote start switch (RSS), hooked it to battery (+) and Solenoid S-post.

Connected Test light to battery (-), placed probe on grounding post on top of front passenger wheel well.

When I pressed the RSS, IT CRANKED!!! And the test light lit up.



Now, what does that mean?

I think my next test is to check the ground on the starter housing?