Hello all

The driver's side front brake line burst a couple of weeks ago just below where the union meets the pipe to the caliper, so just looking for a bit of advice.

Having had a look on the parts catalogue, am I right in thinking that the male union is M10 x 1mm thread and the pipe is 3/8 diameter?

Thanks

Michael

 

I would guess you 3/8” is 10mm but at this point nothing surprises me. A picture might help? Are you making the stuff up yourself to repair it?

 

I haven't got a pic yet, will try and get one this afternoon. Made a slight mistake to my 1st post, the pipe is 3/16" according to the parts catalogue. But yes I was going to get the parts and make it up myself, because I can't drive it anywhere!

Below is the diagram I was looking at:


It's just below the union (19) and before the first bend in the pipe (23) where the line has failed.

I just wanted somebody in the know who could confirm that these are right.

 

3/16 line, standard flare. I don't remember if it's metric or standard thread, but for 3/16 line, there is only one option for metric (M10x1.0) and one option for standard (3/8x24). Based off that pic, it's saying it's metric thread. Which I believe is right. GM used metric a lot of times in the 90s.

 

You have the tools to do a double flare?

 

I don't have any brake flaring tools as yet, just finding out everything I need before I go ahead and get them ordered

 

You could probably order the entire line and fittings from the dealer and save yourself a lot of work, and probably save some money, especially if you nee to buy special tools. If the line actually burst, then most likely it was rusted from the inside out, and the rest of the brake lines may also have rusted internally, usually the result of brake fluid not having been flushed out regularly.

 

Bit awkward for me to get dealer parts as I'm in the UK. The only tool I would need to buy is the flaring tool, plus pipe and unions, I have everything else. I was thinking of just fixing this pipe myself for the short term, then once it's back on the road I'll take it to a garage and get all of the lines replaced professionally.

 

You don't need a "dealer part". All you need is the proper length of tubing with the flared ends (parts stores carry them), and bend it yourself. You can buy a cheapo tubing bender, or bend the tubing around a piece of pipe, a baseball bat, your head, etc. The idea is to curve the tube, not "bend" it. Double flaring requires using a GOOD tool that will grip the tube without slipping or splitting the end of the tube. A Harbor Freight quality flare tool probably won't cut it.

 

No it will not, I was at a friend of mines house and he found a rusted line. I told him I had the tools but I lived too far a way to get them and make back that day. He said he would run over to HF and try theirs. I could not make a line up with that setup. Being from the rust belt area I have made a lot of lines I could not make one. Next day with my SK setup it took 15 minutes with the same tube.

The double flare is the important part. There are a lot of flare kits out there that can not do double flare. Double flare is mostly sold as automotive tools as brakes and fuel lines are the most common uses. Check out youtube for step by step double flare process.

FYI: I am not normally a HF hater, I have a LOT of their stuff but when it comes to tools that require good metal and precision manufacture they tend to fall short.