All stock or not? and General Upgrade Advice
#11
04-27-2012, 03:50 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
You mean this one? 
Oh, you asked about smileys didn't you?
The "quick reply" box is more of a bare bones way.
If you click on "Post Reply" (right below last post), it has more features, including smileys.
Oh, you asked about smileys didn't you?
The "quick reply" box is more of a bare bones way.
If you click on "Post Reply" (right below last post), it has more features, including smileys.
#12
04-27-2012, 03:57 PM
ooohhh distributor lol I have not checked that either. Couldn't seem to find it at the time but I'll give it another look tomorrow. Also off to work so I'll hop back on tonight and see whats goin on.
#13
04-27-2012, 09:30 PM
More power from the LT1 - Auto Enthusiast
look what I have found.
look what I have found.
#14
04-27-2012, 09:50 PM
Ah well I really need to find a good mechanic that I can go to rather than the dealer but I can't find any around here. I live in Oregon so emissions is a bit of a pain because they use the sniffer. So are LTs out of the question then? It does already have a Magnaflow catback.
Air filter is on but I tried takin it out the other day but my hands are too big to hold the nut on the other side to unscrew it but I need to do it soon since it looks pretty nasty.
I tried getting it in for a tune-up but two dealerships I called estimated it would cost about $572 for just the plugs and wires to be replaced because its too difficult they said. So i never had it done.
I couldn't tell you much about the strut bar because I don't know what it was like stock since this is how I received it lol.
And from what I can tell the suspension looks fine. You feel every single little bump on the road and speed bumps are my mortal enemy though. Haven't checked all the fluids personally yet other than the ones in the engine compartment. Haven't checked tranny or diff fluids. Gonna sound stupid but what is the "Opti"? I'm assuming that's the shortened version and I just can't figure out what you're talking about lol.
Air filter is on but I tried takin it out the other day but my hands are too big to hold the nut on the other side to unscrew it but I need to do it soon since it looks pretty nasty.
I tried getting it in for a tune-up but two dealerships I called estimated it would cost about $572 for just the plugs and wires to be replaced because its too difficult they said. So i never had it done.
I couldn't tell you much about the strut bar because I don't know what it was like stock since this is how I received it lol.
And from what I can tell the suspension looks fine. You feel every single little bump on the road and speed bumps are my mortal enemy though. Haven't checked all the fluids personally yet other than the ones in the engine compartment. Haven't checked tranny or diff fluids. Gonna sound stupid but what is the "Opti"? I'm assuming that's the shortened version and I just can't figure out what you're talking about lol.
$572, eh? I wonder if they know it's easier to get to the plugs and wires from underneath the car. I'd do it for $50 if I wasn't across the country. Then again, if you wanna pay gas, I'll be more than happy to help. lol.
Chances are the tranny and diff (especially the diff) are over due.
LTs may be out of the question if they use a sniffer. I would search online or check with someone about the local laws regarding not only emissions, but noise level too. All depends.
I never messed with the stock air filter I can not help there.
#15
04-28-2012, 12:53 PM
Now how difficult is it to do the plugs and wires yourself? Any removing of parts or any of that? From the underside it did look 10 times easier to do.
How would I go about checking/changing out the tranny/diff fluids? Or would it be best to just have an actual mechanic or atleast someone who knows what there doin better then me do it?
I've always been curious about the "skip shift eliminators". Are they really necessary? My car pops up the skip shift message but I just ignore and shift to second anyways. From what I understand it was supposed to force you to only be able to shift to 4th. Unless my car has already received the eliminator.
How would I go about checking/changing out the tranny/diff fluids? Or would it be best to just have an actual mechanic or atleast someone who knows what there doin better then me do it?
I've always been curious about the "skip shift eliminators". Are they really necessary? My car pops up the skip shift message but I just ignore and shift to second anyways. From what I understand it was supposed to force you to only be able to shift to 4th. Unless my car has already received the eliminator.
Last edited by Eagle564; 04-28-2012 at 01:21 PM.
#16
04-28-2012, 04:09 PM
You don't have to remove anything. And the I believe it's only the back two that are hard to reach from the top, I don't remember since I haven't done it in awhile but I do know it's much, much easier from underneath.
Checking trans fluid is easy. Get the car to operating temp, shift through all the gears and then back up and let it idle it park and check the dipstick. That simple. Diff fluid you'd have to pull the little nut out that's on the front, passenger side of the case. Not hard to change, takes a while to pump new fluid into it. Trans fluid change can be easy or difficult depending on whether you go for a full flush or just a filter/ pan change.
They were implemented to help with emissions and fuel mileage under light throttle. But who keeps it under light throttle?
Someone may have put a resistor in. I don't know much about the M6s so someone else is gonna need to chime in.
Checking trans fluid is easy. Get the car to operating temp, shift through all the gears and then back up and let it idle it park and check the dipstick. That simple. Diff fluid you'd have to pull the little nut out that's on the front, passenger side of the case. Not hard to change, takes a while to pump new fluid into it. Trans fluid change can be easy or difficult depending on whether you go for a full flush or just a filter/ pan change.
They were implemented to help with emissions and fuel mileage under light throttle. But who keeps it under light throttle?
Someone may have put a resistor in. I don't know much about the M6s so someone else is gonna need to chime in.
#17
05-01-2012, 07:51 PM
I'm gonna be replacing the thermostat soon with a 160 degree what but what exactly does that mean? Will the max engine temp only go to 160 now? And will it be best for me to get a new Temp gauge as well? My engine gets very hot (just below the 7/8s line on the gauge) whenever its over 70 degrees outside.
#18
05-01-2012, 10:14 PM
I'm gonna be replacing the thermostat soon with a 160 degree what but what exactly does that mean? Will the max engine temp only go to 160 now? And will it be best for me to get a new Temp gauge as well? My engine gets very hot (just below the 7/8s line on the gauge) whenever its over 70 degrees outside.
what does it mean? Simply stated, when the coolant temp reaches around that temp eg: 180 degrees the thermostat opens and the coolant then circulates completely through the radiator and the engine. What you want is for your fans to turn on sooner, perhaps at 200 degrees. You do that by having your computer tuned for it
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