compression test on all cylinders would be a good idea.

 

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge and was wondering which of these would do the job. The one appears to be just a gauge with no bleeder valve if I do need to work on anything. And one of them has no picture and the descriptions are non existent.
I also need a vacuum pump and can only find these expensive break bleeder kits, it's a simple hand tool that you can manually pump with a gauge on it that I am looking for.

Buy Lisle Vacuum Gauge and Fuel Pump Pressure Tester LIS20300 at Advance Auto Parts

Buy Russell Fuel Pressure Gauge, 1 1/2", Liquid-filled, 100 psi 650340 at Advance Auto Parts

 

I have replaced a number of worn out wheel bearings/hubs, and not one of them ever squeaked. You may be hearing the brake pads, not a bearing. Jack the front wheel off the ground, with both hands grab the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock position, then try to rock the wheel. If you don't feel any movement, the wheel bearing is fine. No sense spending money on replacing something, if it isn't worn.

 

Thanks, I had done that test to find out it was bad. And the term squeaking was maybe not the best to describe the noise, it is hard to explain most car sounds for diagnostic purposes. Nonetheless though it is the wheel hub assembly.
Also it might be a couple weeks until I have the cash to buy all the minor parts I need and whatever major parts I need so I won't have updates to the progress for a while if anyone wants to hear about the developments. In a couple days I might have the results of some diagnostic tests, and then if it's anything to major I have to just use my truck for a while.

 

if you want a fuel test kit here is what you want. Buy Actron Fuel Pressure Tester Kit CP7818 at Advance Auto Parts
vacuum pump kit

Buy Mityvac Silverline Vacuum Pump Kit MIT4000 at Advance Auto Parts

 

Well I tested the fuel pressure and it is perfect. The spark plugs looked like they had quite a bit of carbon on them, too much for how old the plugs were, it also appeared that they had some hot spots on only a couple of plugs but it didn't blister the ceramic (yet anyways) maybe some cooler plugs? I have AcDelco's on there now. I couldn't get the compression gauge threaded into the spark plug holes though, the hose would move around too much trying to rotate that to thread it and it was very tight in there. Any body have some tips? I tried for probably an hour alone trying to thread the gauge into one of the spark plug holes. Maybe there is a tool that can help with threading the gauge? Has anyone here performed a compression test using just jacks and stands?

 

i use ngk iridium 7164s and they last pretty good. got 10k outa the last set. am testing some new style bosch iridium 9655s that seem to be working ok. have you replaced the intake gaskets, vacuum leak could cause rich condition.

 

Thanks I will try those NGK's when these inevitably fail early.
I had considered that too because a couple weeks ago I had a code for a small evap system leak. I saw that the PCV elbow that comes from the intake was cracked and replaced that and used a band clamp to insure that it was sealed and the code hasn't come back since. I will try to pay more attention to the gas mileage, bit difficult to actually tell because the gauge is so inaccurate and just a 1/16 off on reading the gauge is still too big of a margin of error, but I will probably be able to tell if its better than the 16mpg reading I took on a road trip.
Do you have any tips for getting the compression gauge threaded into the spark plug hole? I seriously could not for the life of me thread it into one of the holes. I always ended up too far away from the end of the hose on the gauge and it would move around too much to thread. I am thinking maybe a 1/2 inch piece of pipe or something to help guide it in straight, that or paying to have it done which I don't like because you can't see the test results yourself.
Thanks for all the help Crabby and everyone else. I have been scratching my head a bit over this and didn't want to do a compression test (mostly for fear of the result, and being a pain) but I am starting to believe more and more its a gasket. And the cooling system needs to be power flushed because I'm sure some of that dex cool crap is still in there, also why I am starting to think more about a gasket being bad.

 

When checking gas mileage, you have to go full tank to full tank. Going by the gauge will throw your numbers off, no matter what kind of car you're driving.

 

^^^ agree, lol, the fuel gage can be challanging. dont you have a quick connect on the end of the compression tester? im not sure i understand the problem with it. what brand and model tester are you using?