Update of this Thread: Also to end this problem, I hope.
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...s-81055/page2/

Since last post, I bought a new Interstate MT-75, 650 CCA battery and installed. She ran good.

Since then, she would maybe start 30% of the time.
Then no start period. Put on battery charger in START position and no start.
Left a charger attached several days on 2 AMP setting and charger never seem to turn off.
Separate Voltmeter read 14.2 volts for a couple days.
Moved charger and bought from Wally Mart, a Schumacher brand charger, 0-8 amps for $10 - nice unit, and applied both chargers to truck battery and they charged and shut off in less than a day.

So, two chargers on 650 CCA battery and never shuts off, hmm, and still no start.
I swapped truck battery, 10-year old, 850 CCA's, Interstate MTP-78, and WA-LA, she starts within two seconds. Continues to start for the next three days, all 27 times.

Need bigger battery, I say, as this new one will not accept a charge.
But, I'm limited as to Group size 75, and can only get max, 700 CCA's.
Installed, and she starts, left a charger on the battery, and still, she starts.

So, I believe I may have found the problem, "Need more power, Scotty."
Another symptom has changed, 650 CCA battery always ran external voltmeter around 14.3-14.5 volts while driving. This new 700 CCA battery only needs 13.8-14.0 volts on cig lighter plug-in voltmeter.
And two chargers shut off when charged.

Thanks to all for your suggestions. Got the mind thinking, and I'll get another Twisted tea, or two, less trips to garage frig.

 

Still sounds funny. Have you tested your battery cables?

A starter should not draw more then 220 amps, Many draw 120-130 amps when tested, that leaves 400 amps for the engine? A 400 amp battery should start your car fine in the summer. The last few times I started my 93z it was with a stone dead battery and a POS 330 amp HF jump box. I had to let it sit for a few minutes while the jump box charged the battery but it always started.

The reason manufacturer require high CCA is because of accessories and they advertise the car to start in below zero weather. If you need 700 CCA to start on a nice day you will need 1100-1200 amps to start your car when its zero out.

 

Agree with you, Gorn, on all comments.
Battery cables are OEM as Camaro only has 21K miles.
I would think GM Eng'ring knew the consequences in the design.


Like I said, the deciding factor was adding the 850 CCA battery.
A world of difference.
I should have mentioned, with the 650 CCA battery, voltage shown, from the plug-in cig lighter voltmeter, read 11 volts.
With 850, 12.2 volts. With the new 700 CCA battery, 12.0 volts.
Apparently, with the extra wattage of 1 volt, made the difference.


I was thinking of the residual current drawn sitting in the OFF condition.
It has: PCM, BCM, radio/clock, and VATS.
True, power shouldn't be over 125 milliamps,
I think the 650 CCA battery was defective from the get-go.
It always drew a higher recharge and both chargers never shut off.
The one charger I use on my '04 M3 'Vert in the garage and M3 has never failed to start and charger shuts off and on.


You should take a look at the Schumacher charger, 0-8 amps, nice unit.

 

I'd take the new battery to have it tested, see what it reads.

 

I did, the 650 battery under a Battery Load Tester, failed after testing four times.
The 700 battery has not failed after six times and she started three times today with no externalcharging.

 

I've had a bad brand new battery before,it happens.

 

I have owned Schumacher chargers since I was in the 11th grade (1981) I currently have the 2/12/75 and a 1.5 amp battery tender.

I would not trust an lighter volt tester. Lighters are common failure points as they rust internally. Put a volt meter on the battery, hit the starter just for one second to remove the "static" charge and then take a reading. To check the cables just hook the positive side of the tester to one end of the cable and the negative side of the tester to the other end of the cable and crank the car over. You should get a reading less then one volt. This represents the power lost in the cable. 13.2 volt at the battery with a 1 volt drop means your getting 12.2 volts at the starter. Keep in mind that cable failure is more a factor of age, stored environment and how oxygen free the original crimp was on both ends from the factory. Battery cables are like plug wires, they can look like new and be complete crap. Mileage is not as much a factor with battery cables. I have replaced battery cables under warranty for failing the above test. That means less then 3 years old.

It sounds like you have the issue and fixed it. If a car came in with starting trouble and the battery failed a draw test that would have to be fixed first. The fact the new battery is working is proof enough but do keep in mind that it is not working just because its 700 CCA its working because it not defective. Low voltage and a failed load test would indicate a bad cell in your original battery. All charged batteries will have the same voltage until your draw over comes its CCA. 650 CCA non-defective battery should be fine. If it is not, you have another issue. FYI one of the symptoms of bad cables is greatly reducing battery life as much as not using a battery tender on a car that is rarely driven. Rarely driven cars with bad cable can turn a 72 month battery into a 24 month battery.

My current battery in my 2000 Z28 will need replaced before winter. If I play the radio for an half hour with the car off I hear it in the starter. I would guess it would fail a 400 CC load test right now but even with all the draw from the computers and a OBD2 bluetooth connector plugged in all the time she fired right up after sitting for an extended weekend. Once it turns cold that won't be the case.

FYI if you had the $12 OBD2 bluetooth adapter you could watch the voltage the computer is seeing on your phone. (assuming you have a smart phone with blue tooth.) Seeing how much the voltage to the PCM dropped while the car was cranking would tell all. There is probably a 2-3 volt difference in the batteries.

 

Thanks, Gorn, for the info.
I agree with cable deterioration and I look for less than 0.5 volt loss between the posts as this includes the surface contact of all items involved, cable, crimp, lug, and its attachment to the stud/spade.


The lighter meter is just for indication as it has a better definition of a reading than the voltmeter in the cluster. If I need a better measurement, yes, I use a DMM calibrated from my work.
I would like to get a Bluetooth tool. Maybe RockAuto sells them.


Have I found the problem? I hope so, only time will tell.

 

I think this was the one I got. Seem to have the best cost to complaint ratio LOL...

 

thank you, Sir. I will add it to my list, get enough and free shipping.