I think you are going in the wrong direction with your stalling problem. 3rd gen car gas tank are under pressure and what year is that vent for??? Also did you clean or relplace the IAC(Idle air control) valve whick controls the idle speed??

 

Ok, I ran the car and got it to start stalling out today to see if I could get a better idea myself. Something very important I forgot to mention in my first post is that when I replaced the fuel pump I snatched the exhaust off back to the Cat to drop the tank since the muffler was shot already and while dropping it the pipe split back to the Cat. While it was stalling out I was playing around with gas cap, no gas cap running and left the cap off one time and stood there with it running. I stuck my hand to the filler neck and about burnt myself it was so hot from the metal and vapors. So, I guess my exhaust is heating my tank up so much that it gets the fuel too hot, and Im lucky to still be alive !

Going to stick a complete exhaust on it and see if thats it. I am however still open to suggestions while getting this done though.

 

Your car should have a metal heat shield between the muffler and gas tank. It's rectangular-ish shaped, and has a curve to it.
If that's missing, then yeah, your gas tank is getting cooked by the muffler.

 

I put the heat shield back when I replaced the fuel pump. But, like I said I dont have a full exhaust system on it right now. All I have for exhaust is the manifolds, pipes to the Cat, and thats all. The Cat is under the passenger seat and directed towards the driveshaft. The muffler heat shield doesnt wrap on the front side, and I think that over time of the car running that the exhaust is flowing back and scooping over the rearend heating the gas tank.


Anyways, if this doesnt seem like it could be causing it I am open to other suggestions on this prob and the other problems with the car like the non-start, broke tach, and fuel gauge showing 1/4 tank for empty.

 

broken tach- you need to replace it. I had to replace mine and they are not exact either (to say the least)


fuel gauge showing 1/4...........OK, so now you know where empty is. That's how both my 3rd gen was and my 4th gen is

non-start: bypass vats so you know that is never again a suspect and then troubleshoot your ignition and/or fuel problem

sometimes we are our own worst enemy by over-complicating things

 

Ok, the cat-back exhaust system I ordered should be in tomorrow, and if I get off work early enough I should be able to have it on. I will post findings afterwards or the next morning. Hopefully this is the fix.

 

Got the car up right now with the to pipe from the Cat to the muffler under it, but the cat flange bolts arent lining up. Its a Dynomax 17495 cat back exhaust system. Any suggestions?

 

Ok, it took some grinding on the flange with a dremel, but I got the exhaust on. The gas tank isnt overheating anymore and I was able to let the car sit for a couple hours idling without it stalling. Next is a roadtrip tomorrow to really test it, and if all goes well I will start to work on the cooling fan.

 

I might just be getting lucky today, but I think I have the VATS system figured out. My father use to always tell me to just turn the switch on and let it set for a second to prime the fuel line, but I never did. Well, that advice seems to not only help with priming the fuel, but giving the decoder time to check the key because so far today as long as I just switch on and wait for the fuel pump to run for a second the security light goes off right after the pump stops and u can hear a small click from where the decoder box is. I guess that small click is it switching the starter relay.

 

Hmmmm....your electronics must be a little slow on the uptake!
As long as it keeps working that way, consider that your little added "security". But, it's still not "right".