I got a Chevy 350 4 bolt main. I took the engine out and got it stripped down to the block. I gotta a question about the location of the cam hole. It is noticablly out of center of the casting. It is closer to the upper left of the block than from the center. Will this affect what kind of lift I can use on a performance cam? Would you recomend looking for a new block or could I still rebuild it? Would the left valvetrain get more lift than the right?

 

I would take it to the machine shop and have the check it out, you might have to have it align bored!

 

This cant be or your timing chain would not fit or your push rods on one side would be noticable longer slide the cam back in the find a common point on block to measure to ie center of cam to edge where intake "V's" with heads both ways I am sure it is a optical illusion . But do your self a favor still take it to a good machinist IT WILL need boiled cam bearing and bored dont just rering do it right or end of with junk

 

Are You Sure Your Not Looking At A Freeze Plug Hole? If Your Cam Was Offset Every Enternal Part In The Motor Would Have To Be Offset. Nothing Would Align. Distributor, Lifters, Heads, Oil Pump, Fuel Pump Everthing That Had Anything To Do With Cam Would Have To Be Offset. I've Never Heard Of Such. Sick

 

Um yeah it's the hole right above the crank shaft where I took the cam out from. The freeze plugs run perpendicular to the cam... You think that I'm that big of an a$$ clown? If I were, I wouldn't try f*cking restoring this car!

 

There it is

 

Nobody Thinks Your Anything ... Just What Your Saying Doesn't Make Since. Think About It ... If The Cam Hole Was Offset ... One Side Of The Block Would Have To Be Offset For Everything To Match. I Guess It's Possible But Haven't Never Seen It. Sick

 

Judging from the pics this engine was running when you took it apart. If so, then why did you even start this thread? F@ck it, rebuild it. you can't judge it by comparing the raw casting to the machined finish, of corse it's going to look to be off center, IT'S A RAW CASTING!. Use your head before you post questions like this.

 

Pushing 510 hp before the super charger and having a questional block is not what I want. Why rebuild it twice when I can rebuild it once and the right way? With it off center the left heads get .032" more lift than the right. I would guess if I put in the 383 stroker kit where the piston comes flat with the deck, and the valves are going to have a 1:6 ratio with a high lift cam, I don't want the valves to interfere with the pistons, or have an unsemetrical valve train setup. And furhter more you're an *** clown because the first machine shop (Jasper Engines) told me that the block's raw casting doesn't pass their quality test for their engines and that they would not line bore it. That's the main reason why I posted this. #2 I got a second opinion while it took your *** long enough to find this post. #3 Now that they will line bore it and put larger cam bearings in it, they can center it. #4 if it was such a waste of a time post, why did you even waste your time responding??? Cuz you have nothing better to do.

 

Before every body gets bent out of shape. The machining on a block is very accurate, but castings always shift, so by looking at the outside of the engine sometimes things can look lopsided. The problem occurs when the casting shifts too much, and when the machining is done there may be spots where the metal is too thin. That is probably the reason the machine shop rejected the block, as they don't want to hear about it when things break. If you intend to make some real power, as you are planning, you should invest in a Bow Tie racing block. They are made of stronger material, wall thicknesses are greater, and the casting is more accurate. They are also tested to detect any flaws.